Battery drain issue
- Thread starter demon322
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That reading is not much. If you read that right, that is less than 1/10 V per reading
You need to re-check the original two points where you started. That is, the VR ign feed and the battery. This is because the bad connection CAN CHANGE. You may have wiggled something and "made" the connection.
Still another way you can do this is to connect the meter "as above" and watch it, while you wiggle the ignition switch connector and the bulkhead connector and see if it changes
You need to re-check the original two points where you started. That is, the VR ign feed and the battery. This is because the bad connection CAN CHANGE. You may have wiggled something and "made" the connection.
Still another way you can do this is to connect the meter "as above" and watch it, while you wiggle the ignition switch connector and the bulkhead connector and see if it changes
This time with key turned to run but engine off. It read 11.84 at the battery, and 1.52 at the blue field wire at the alt. So I add those together and get 13.36? Or did I misunderstand that. Thanks again.
cudajim
cudajim
You need to diagnose the problem first, not throw parts at it and hope you come up with the fix.
Thank you Jim. That is exactly what I am trying to do by asking these questions.
I ‘threw’ a new alternator and VR at it based on the answers to those questions and the age of the original parts. I am optimistic.
Have a great weekend.
pishta
I know I'm right....
what kind of VR are you using, points or electronic?> Make sure the electronic has a good ground from its case to the firewall with a star washer as I believe the VR uses a variable ground to this mounting surface to vary the 'excitement' of the alternator.
It’s an electronic VR. I added a star washer just to be safe after reading some posts on here
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
No you add the running / charging voltage WHICH WOULD BE NORMAL which is 13.8---14.2, to the "drop" which is 1.52
This means the VR SHOULD run the battery at nominal 14V, but the drop added (1.52) means the battery likely charging at 15.52.
Now with the car running, the battery charged, and the engine warm, run at a fast idle and check voltage at the battery. "I bet" it is AT LEAST 15.52 OR HIGHER. You need to find that drop and fix it. Again, it could be "a combination." And, it can "come and go."
Those numbers seem to be close to normal, but as you said the problem can come and go. The flicker issue is still there.
If you think that adding the relay as you described could solve these problems it seems like it may be time to give that a shot.
If you think that adding the relay as you described could solve these problems it seems like it may be time to give that a shot.
Does it matter which relay I use for this? I was looking for one to order and noticed some have different numbers for the contacts on the relay. Anyone have a part number or what numbers on the posts I should be looking for? Thanks!
No worries! After reading and rereading this thread as well as a couple other threads on here I removed and cleaned the bulkhead connectors and while they did need a good cleaning the issue remained. So I added the relay as you described and that did the trick! Much appreciated as always.
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