Be Careful of What You Let Get Away

-

Garrett Ellison

Amateur driver on public roadway, do not imitate..
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2018
Messages
5,580
Reaction score
5,150
Location
Southwest VA
7840F1DE-7928-499F-8774-91CE2FF43B4A.jpeg
Posting pics of something unexpected. This a 318 out of an HD A/W Ramcharger. With a big I cast in the side. I presume for industrial. The major thrust axis of the cylinders are 5/16 inch thick from the top of the deck to the bottom, and there’s less than 1/8 inch between the cylinder walls. Odd find for a hydraulic roller engine.

50E4A84F-937E-40D5-AF65-75E6ECEC54E4.jpeg


C2DE8F54-F25C-4A59-87A4-3775BE33624A.jpeg


E8F4333C-3B2C-46D6-9AD6-73E1D4AE0E67.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I have a 92 318 that came out of a Dakota that has an “I” cast in it like that. I haven’t looked at it to closely
 
It would take sonic testing to know how thick the minor thrust axis are, but a four inch bore should easily be within reach. Not something you’d expect with a 1989 casting date and a 1990 production date.
 
I’m thinking about it. I need to start a thread to see if there any decent budget sonic testers. I’ve been thinking about getting one for a while now.
 
View attachment 1715905165 Posting pics of something unexpected. This a 318 out of an HD A/W Ramcharger. With a big I cast in the side. I presume for industrial. The major thrust axis of the cylinders are 5/16 inch thick from the top of the deck to the bottom, and there’s less than 1/8 inch between the cylinder walls. Odd find for a hydraulic roller engine.

View attachment 1715905166

View attachment 1715905167

View attachment 1715905169
I wonder what the whole story is on these blocks. What does the rest of the block look like compared to the typical 318 of that era? Main webbing, etc.
 
Here’s the one I bought and use. I spent a night getting a little cheat sheet of info so I can get it set right quickly. I haven’t touched it in over a year till today to take a picture. I bought the smaller probe too.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
I’ll be able to tell you here in a few more weeks. I’ve got four (IIRC, I’ma borderline 318 poor as of late) regular hydraulic roller blocks I’m going to bridge mic’ measure the and strokes and TDC heights to see the actual deck height distance from crank centerline before disassembly So far, I can’t see any obvious differences from the bottom end. I also plan on doing some hardness testing to see if the industrial blocks have higher nickel and tin alloying content. I’m going to check that against a particularly thick 1975 year casting truck block and a regular 1973 casting block. If anything stands out in the webbing or otherwise as obviously different, we’ll know. I’m going to post pics of similarities and differences regardless.
 
I wonder what an actual safe cyl wall thickness is if a stock mopar block will blow out at 450hp..
 
I let my ex wife get away, but that was a good thing.
 
Build a 390 out of it
The temptation is all too real, but I would want to do beefier man caps and go ahead and take it out to a 4 inch or even larger bore. A lot of advantages to the larger bore size as far as getting more out of larger valves, but there’s a lot more “here and now” ring availability in performance four inch rings in stainless or hellfire rings. The last time hunting for 1/16 inch X 3.94 inch bore set of total seal top rings makes me brow ring selection much differently.
 
Instead of looking for the strongest or best castings I can find lately, I’m collecting the scrap to experiment with and try things out on. I’m looking into getting into some “Backyard Foundry” activity and seeing what iron I can chop up and melt down to pour the water jackets full on the throw away last overbore sized blocks. And whatever cracked heads, too. Looking at the whole truck and tractor puller mentality of cooling it with a river of methanol poured down the gullet. But admittedly, I’m more just wanting to experiment with seeing if a production iron smog head could be turned into a tunnel port (or worse, stacks out of the top of the head, like a sprint engine) design. Cast on another port and next to the pushrod pinch and shape the center divider made from the port wall like a wing where it goes into the bowl. Of course, it would take a custom manifold (and probably a whole lot of unforeseen patience with getting the casting right) to make it happen. But I would like to find out how two ports divided by the pushrod pinch flows compared to one with the pushrod moved over.
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top