Bearing choices

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mopowers

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I need bearings for a stock 360 build. I notice Clevite has H-series, P-series full groove, P-series half groove, and A-series Aluminum main bearings.

Which ones should I get? In the past, I just get the direct replacement full groove P-series (MS1266P), but what do you folks think? As I said, this is for a stock 360 build.

How about rod bearings? I didn't realize there were so many choices.
 
I need bearings for a stock 360 build. I notice Clevite has H-series, P-series full groove, P-series half groove, and A-series Aluminum main bearings.

Which ones should I get? In the past, I just get the direct replacement full groove P-series (MS1266P), but what do you folks think? As I said, this is for a stock 360 build.

How about rod bearings? I didn't realize there were so many choices.
As mentioned above,King bearings are nice,and priced reasonably. Tri metal Clevite 77 bearings,are pretty much accepted,for OE rebuilds,& street strip builds...
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I need bearings for a stock 360 build. I notice Clevite has H-series, P-series full groove, P-series half groove, and A-series Aluminum main bearings.

Which ones should I get? In the past, I just get the direct replacement full groove P-series (MS1266P), but what do you folks think? As I said, this is for a stock 360 build.

How about rod bearings? I didn't realize there were so many choices.
clevite P series full groove will work just great. P series on rods as well. rods cb481p. 1266p mains.
 
I'm not a fan of full groove on milder engines. Especially something that had some mileage and isn't getting any lifter bore work done of a larger volume oil system. I use the std half-groove, non P series for the milder stuff. To be honest I don't use full groove on anything unless a customer tells me to or has them already. I'll use 3/4 groove on those that are going to see repeated high rpm beatings.
 
I think full groove stock. When we redid my 360 it had full groove and engine was unopened till that point when my pops and i took it apart.
 
1/2 groove is stock. The design was max load carrying ability where it's needed. However, because oil flows from the main bearings, through the crank to the rods - it means the rod bearings "only" get oil when the passage in the crank lines up with the groove. So more groove means more oil to the rods.
I've never found a need for full grooves - it can lower oil pressure depending on the rod clearance and it does lower the surface are that can support the crank when it needs it most.
That being said - high load/high rpm engines with loose clearances and an upgraded oil delivery system are needed and the full groove does have a place.
 
If half groove bearings were stock, why are most clevite bearing kits full groove? Did they determine the full groove bearings were an upgrade over stock and met more folks needs when rebuilding these small blocks?
 
Every "unopened" motor I've tore down had 1/2 groove bearings. Thqts quite a few in over 40 years
 
Make sure you know what year of an engine block you're dealing with. For the mains,They all don't use the 3.910 thrust flange width! 1971-73 use eg. clevite MS1051P with 3.685 max flange width OR 1974 and newer use eg. clevite MS1266P 3.910 max flange width.
 
Clevite "A" and "P" series are both full grove. ACL brand 5M1266P and Sealed Power brand 4999M (now superseded to 4999MA) are both half grove style. I'll have to check on what the King brand offers.
 
clevite P series full groove will work just great. P series on rods as well. rods cb481p. 1266p mains.



Listen to this^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


Always use full groove mains. The mains are plenty big enough that you won't have a loading issue. As I wrote in another thread, the oil timing to the rods is not right on these engines, and anything you can do to get oil to the rods will help. I have never seen a full groove bearing show sings of being overloaded.
 
If half groove bearings were stock, why are most clevite bearing kits full groove? Did they determine the full groove bearings were an upgrade over stock and met more folks needs when rebuilding these small blocks?

Remembering you asked for bearings for a stock build...
A couple reasons in my opinion:
1. They have a purpose - they allow full time oiling of the rod bearings. (note YR's commentaries) I disagree with him given the vast majority of engines being built by enthusiasts on a site such as this don't need them. High rpm/high load/sustained rpm engines do need them. In fact these engines might need a higher quality, higher eccentricity bearing too. They also need machining for wider clearances, larger oil sumps, better pans and pickups, and better oil pumps. In any "lesser" application they are simply emotional relief and added expense.
2. A lot of people ask for them because of publicity and upselling.

The question I'd ask is if the 340, 340+6, or 440+6s got full grooved bearings. They got the same bearings as the other production non-performance V8s. That's with factory red lines of 6500+ on the tachometer included in those packages and a warranty. I can tell you, the 340s, 360s, and 318s I had years ago had nothing more than stock bearings and factory lower ends, and had no issues running for miles wide open, 6K rpm plus, on the highway. I didn't have the cash to rebuild, or the tools to check them out properly.
I feel one is MUCH better served getting high end machining done to correct the "factory spec" machining tolerances, oil clearances, and balancing issues and running a std volume oil pump with stock bearings than getting the less expensive machining, plastigaging the clearances, and buying things like girdles and big oil pans and big oil pumps on a street engine. Even and aggressive street/strip engine. Just my opinion of course.
 
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