Before I break something: any tips on body to rear axle brake line connector removal?

[MRGTX]

I'm all set to mount up my fresh rear axle assembly. I received some good tips from this form (thanks again) on replacing the junction box/brake line connector that mounts on the axle housing (along with the vented bolt). Thanks again for that info.

So the original flex line that connects from the body to he rear axle seems to have been on there since my car rolled off of the assembly line in October of 1972...yeah, real safe, I know...

The problem is that the line is supported by a thin sheet metal tab where in connects to the hard line on the body. With wrenches on each side, the fittings just don't want to budge and I'm darned near damaging the body-side line...which I'd really like to avoid...and in the process, it that sheet metal tab looks like it could get bent pretty easily.

I have sprayed the heck out of it with the Pb Baster...but I still think I'm missing something. Is there a clip that runs parallel to that tab that needs to be removed? I can't quite see anything but my lighting isn't great so I'm hesitant to apply any more force without checking. If not, is there any technique that you guys can recommend that would avoid the need to bend up new brake lines?

As always, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[halifaxhops]

Try this seriously take a cheap birthday cake candle and drip the wax on the fittings, then let it sit for a hour it should break free.

 

[MRGTX]

Try this seriously take a cheap birthday cake candle and drip the wax on the fittings, then let it sit for a hour it should break free.

Thanks! I'm absolutely willing to give this a shot but would this do anything that the penetrating oil isn't already doing?

 

[halifaxhops]

Don't ask me why but it works!

 

[krazykuda]

I heat the stubborn fittings with propane torch, then break them loose...

 

[MRGTX]

I heat the stubborn fittings with propane torch, then break them loose...

I've thought about this but the thought of setting brake fluid on fire isn't a comforting thought.
How much heat can you apply?

 

[krazykuda]

I've thought about this but the thought of setting brake fluid on fire isn't a comforting thought.
How much heat can you apply?

Try to get the fittings to turn red if possible, if not get them good-n-hot.... Try to keep the flame aimed away from any rubber if possible...

 

[sccachallenger]

Hopefully you're using the correct size line wrenches?
Once or twice I was able to shock one loose by using a short "cheater pipe" on the side I could reach.
This was after I'd heated it up.
I hit it hard and it came loose.
My last resort is a small pipe wrench, this will booger up the hex a little, hopefully you won't have to go to this extreme. Good luck! we've all been there.

 

[Inertia]

There is a clip that secures hose to body tab.

 

[72bluNblu]

There is a clip that secures hose to body tab.

Yup! There is a clip there somewhere. But it shouldn’t keep you from breaking the threads loose, it will hold the line to the tab though.

I think heat is probably you’re best option. Sometimes there’s just no way to save the car side line though. That metal brake line is 46 years old and is just plain steel. It may be rust damaged and pretty thin itself.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I've thought about this but the thought of setting brake fluid on fire isn't a comforting thought.
How much heat can you apply?

You can get them pretty warm, but when the rubber softens it comes out of there like a gunshot.
There is a clip holding the flex hose end in the bracket.
Remove it then pull steel line down into bracket to get wrenches on it.
Once hose is off,stick a pick in the end of the steel line. Heat nut and cool with water a couple times. The nut should come free from the line and swivel as it should.
Have done this hubdreds of times and it seems to me there us no better way to save the line.

 

[72bluNblu]

 

[MRGTX]

Thanks to all for the tips, guys!

There is a clip that secures hose to body tab.

Yup! There is a clip there somewhere. But it shouldn’t keep you from breaking the threads loose, it will hold the line to the tab though.

I think heat is probably you’re best option. Sometimes there’s just no way to save the car side line though. That metal brake line is 46 years old and is just plain steel. It may be rust damaged and pretty thin itself.

Ok...So I hope that two days of soaking in the penetrating oil will make that clip easier to see.
I'll hit it with the little torch (with the fire extinguisher near by) and give it a shot. I've got a pack of birthday candles on hand too.

Brian, you're right about the line. It could be toast. It really looks ok otherwise but I have a roll of brake line, bender, flaring tool and fittings all ready to go if necessary. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it doesn't come to that!

I am grateful to Ma Mopar for using quality hardware though... Despite this stuck fitting, all of the lines and hardware on this car have held up astonishingly well, especially for a car that lived outside for much of its life.

 

[Inertia]

You may be able to salvage the hard line. The hard line flare nut does not need to be loosened from the tube.. I put honkin vice-grips on the flarenut, and while it's in the body clip, WITH a wrench on it, use the vice-grips to " crack " free the connection. Then remove the clip, just pull the line free of tab, far enuff to unscrew the hose, screw on new hose, install in tab, secure with clip, support hose/tab with wrench, then tighten the last "cinch" with the seized nut on tube. Done it often on an otherwise perfectly serviceable tube.

 

[MRGTX]

Just an update- Success! Nothing broke.
I think it was the heat that did the trick. Thanks to all for the input and advice.

I'm still an absolute rookie mechanic but thanks largely to this forum, I'm getting through this stuff with minimal breakage and learning a ton in the process.

I'm a lot more confident that I can get through almost any job given enough time, repair manuals and the forum. I just need to start them early enough in the winter because I'm still slower than a 170 /6 in a C-Body running up a hill.