Bent Frame, bent k member

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HTMLmopars

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So for years of owning my 68 Valiant, I've known it has a bent frame. Finally got it in to a body shop to get it all squared up and got a call today, they told me the k member is bent, too. Basically the conclusion is that the k member isn't fixable and that it likely won't bolt in place after the frame is bent straight. Now I need to source a k member to replace it.
A quick search on the ole marketplace showed only a super cut up 73+. I know wildcat Mopar is somewhat in my region, but haven't called to see what they price theirs at. I'd like a /6 unit because I've already got the adapter motor mounts for my 318.
My other option is going tubular and I don't know exactly where to start there. If I'm going tube I'd like to keep the torsion bar, which could be just contained on the lower control arm, right?
Any thoughts on this/where to locate parts?
 
I have a bare 1970 biscuit style one out and on the ground. Id give you if you paid shipping.. i have a 73 k frame but its still in thr car with suspension i have yet to remove, if it was out ready id give ya that one as well if ya paid shipping but i have no idea when i will have time to remove it both slant 6 K's
 
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Putting the car on a frame machine should straighten out the k-member, or get it close. I have straightened one k-member that was REALLY bad and a couple that were slightly tweaked. It should be easy with a frame rack.
 
Putting the car on a frame machine should straighten out the k-member, or get it close. I have straightened one k-member that was REALLY bad and a couple that were slightly tweaked. It should be easy with a frame rack.
So I should call back the body guy and tell him to leave the k member bolted in and straighten it all up? I don't want to come across as a know it all jerk on that phone call. If he wanted to drop the k member to straighten the frame, is that just the best way to do it, and it'll be fine if I give him the green light to make it good enough instead of best?
Obviously every body guy is different but just trying to get a feel for it
 
Bear in mind you don't HAVE to use a 68 K. Now, you do want to stick with a V8 K unless you want to do a bunch of fabrication to adapt V8 motor mount perches, or spend more money for "swap" mounts. However, since your 68 K "seems" to be junk, it's conceivable to use those motor mount perches and convert a /6 K to V8

67 had an oddball idler arm, but if your K is "junk" you could run across a 67 K and weld your 68 idler arm perches to the 67 K

Otherwise, with "same" motor mounts, you can use 68-72 V8, or the noted 67 by fabbing idler arm perch

You could also use 73/ and later V8, but you'd need to change to the later "spool" motor mounts. Some think those are better, and some do not.
 
Get that free k shipped they don't weigh as much as you think and it's straight already. You could ask but I bet the K won't ever be the same after it's straightened with all its crappy from the line welds and all.
 
So I should call back the body guy and tell him to leave the k member bolted in and straighten it all up? I don't want to come across as a know it all jerk on that phone call. If he wanted to drop the k member to straighten the frame, is that just the best way to do it, and it'll be fine if I give him the green light to make it good enough instead of best?
Obviously every body guy is different but just trying to get a feel for it

Unibodies with welded-in crossmembers are straightened without removing them. With that said, the k-member could also be straightened off the car. I'd be interested to know how far off it is. Like I said, I've straightened one that was really bad, but I did separate the two halves, but I don't have a 20-ton or more frame rack.
 
Get that free k shipped they don't weigh as much as you think and it's straight already. You could ask but I bet the K won't ever be the same after it's straightened with all its crappy from the line welds and all.

I actually got a message from a local member that has one, so I might jump on that prior to getting one shipped. Everyone on this forum is super generous!
 
Look at a factory K and youll see most of the welds are crappy birdshit flux core looking welds and you'll realize why guys gussett them with welded in 90's. I think youll be yards ahead with a straight K that has not been compromised in a wreck.
 
Look at a factory K and youll see most of the welds are crappy birdshit flux core looking welds and you'll realize why guys gussett them with welded in 90's. I think youll be yards ahead with a straight K that has not been compromised in a wreck.
So true they could be considered crumple zones in todays cars.
I have wrecked two mopars in my past, a 65 and a 71 both times broke my nose on the steering wheel.
 
So true they could be considered crumple zones in todays cars.
I have wrecked two mopars in my past, a 65 and a 71 both times broke my nose on the steering wheel.

There's a reason I put shoulder belts in my car back when I was dailying it. I wanted to at least pretend I was safe in there
 
It would make the most sense to go with a 73 and up V8 K-member, spindle, disc brakes, sway bar, lower and upper control arms. You will get better braking and the calipers will be positioned correctly. If you can’t afford to change to disc brakes just change to the 73 K-frame and you can upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Going with the slant-6 K-member and reusing the motor mount adapters makes no sense to me.
 
It would make the most sense to go with a 73 and up V8 K-member, spindle, disc brakes, sway bar, lower and upper control arms. You will get better braking and the calipers will be positioned correctly. If you can’t afford to change to disc brakes just change to the 73 K-frame and you can upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Going with the slant-6 K-member and reusing the motor mount adapters makes no sense to me.
Jus' sayin but you don't need the 73 K frame to convert to disc brakes. You can use any year K, and any year LCA and any year steering link as long as it matches the K frame AKA before or after the 72/73 split
 
Jus' sayin but you don't need the 73 K frame to convert to disc brakes. You can use any year K, and any year LCA and any year steering link as long as it matches the K frame AKA before or after the 72/73 split
I actually have factory discs on this car, KHs that have kicked my *** every time I touch them. But when they work they work good. Working to get a 73 frame, I'll keep y'all updated if it falls through.
 
Update and resolution: picked up a dirty but pretty good looking k member last night. I had meant this thread to be weighing pros and cons of aftermarket tube k members, but instead it turned into a wanted ad. Thanks again to all y'all that offered up your stuff to me, I take appreciate it.
Now on to cleaning and painting/powder coating(?)
 
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