Best budget 360 stroker kit

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Badart

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What is the best bang for the buck 360 stroker kit? I Don't plan on nitrous or making more than 450 hp. Yesterday I picked up a free 360 from C_Stripes and I have tore it down to the block and crank. I have not measured the bores and I can't tell if the dish pistons are oversized yet. Taking it to the machine shop next week to have them check it out and see how much they will have to do to clean up the cylinders and have it sonic checked.

I am really leaning towards a stroker motor because I already have many go fast small block parts.
 
I got my stroker from Indy, $12-1300, I forgot. It came with cas steel 4 inch crank, Eagle SIR rods, Wiesco forged alum. "street" pistons, and all bearings. I'm assembling the motor now, so I havent ran it. I opted for the internall balance. You can go to Mopar Perf. and get a really cheap cast 4 inch stroker crank, and piece the rest together.
 
I got my 408 kit from mike at mrl performance. He was priced less than everyone else and he measured all crank journals,balanced it,put pistons on rods and made it so it was a true drop in kit and he followed it up with great support for the questions I had.
 
i'm doing a stroker kit right now and so far i've got a 4" eagle cast crank, using stock magnum rods with new arp bolts, and ross racing pistons. i believe with bearings it was under 1000.
 
Ohio crank had a deal for a while $950, but ended up $1325 or so after internal balance.
Same kit I used for my 410-std nodular radiused journal crank, h beams w/ARP2000 12 point bolts, KB quench domes that yielded me 9.997 comp w/62cc, speed pro moly rings, clevite narrow rod bearings and std 360 bearing that a lathed narow for the radius journal crank.

It seems to be a 'scat/mopar' crank.
 
Thanks for the info. Sounds like there are quite a few options out there. When I drop off the block at the machine shop I will get their input also. I got this motor from C_Stripes. He and the previous owner know nothing about the history of the engine. The block may be junk, but would be cool if it is usable.
I think I will want to keep the compression ratio around 10:1 so I can run pump gas and make a mean little street motor. I would like to build this while I run my little 318. If the block is good I guess I can sell my 440/727 that is waiting to be rebuilt.
 
When I bought mine, I opted for the internall balance. Turns out these cranks are cast with heavier crank throws, so the bob wieght would be removed to balance. Ultimatly, order an internall balance, its cheaper after you factor in the cost of heavy metal slugs added in.
 
The engine also came with a decent set of 73-74 360 heads casting number 3671587 1.88 1.60 valves. Would these even be an option with some porting, bigger valves and dome pistons?
 
Oh yeah, I forgot to add, my Eagle setup came from Indy. Paid 250 for the optional internal balance. I hade my machinist check it, it was 7 grams off. He fixed it to within a 1/2 gram, which is kinda overkill for a low rpm street setup, but makes me feel better.
 
I live above 4,500 ft. elevation. I don't mind running 93 octane in the car. What pistons and compression ratio should I be looking at with the heads that I listed above?
 
I run the Scat kit which has the cast steel crank, Scat i-beam rods, and KB quench dish pistons. What ever kit you get make sure you have a good local shop go over all the clearances and check the balance.
 
Why buy a kit balanced and then have to pay another to check the balance???

Buy it unbalanced and have a local shop balance the assembly for you. The local should weigh each component and match them, not pull weights off a box and bobweight it from that, like some of the manufacturers have been known to do.

Get H-beam rods, I'd stay away from the SIR's if possible. Some of the newer I beams rods are pretty nice pieces.
 
340sFastback said:
I run the Scat kit which has the cast steel crank, Scat i-beam rods, and KB quench dish pistons. What ever kit you get make sure you have a good local shop go over all the clearances and check the balance.
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I have a local shop here that builds all of the local mopar engines. I have never used him, but hopefully I am in good hands.
 
Well I dropped off my 360 at the machine shop today and the J-heads that I picked up cheap. The 360 is stock bore Wahoo!:cheers: He is going to see if he can get the rotating assy cheaper. He will call me in a couple of weeks. It's funny because his shop is called Horsepower Farms is out in the middle of nowhere and is surrounded by farms. His number is unlisted and doesn't advertise, because he doesn't want to have more work than he can handle. I had to call about 3 people before I could get his number. I have heard that he does really good work and his prices are decent.

I will order the kit once he tanks it and cleans up the cylinders. I'm pretty excited.
 
You and me both,I just droped my heads off yesterday for P&P and some flow testing.I,m not pulling my motor til next week,but it will be headed to the shop for a 408 stroker kit.Good Luck with your build!:cheers:
 
pettybludart said:
You and me both,I just droped my heads off yesterday for P&P and some flow testing.I,m not pulling my motor til next week,but it will be headed to the shop for a 408 stroker kit.Good Luck with your build!:cheers:
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You too. Are you going with a roller set up? I am debating. I have a couple of weeks to decide anyway.
 
Yes I,m going roller,once I get flow 3,s and have my block there I,ll have a better idea what stroker kit and cam,valvetrain I will be using.I definetly want all forged and H beam rods.
 
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