Best disk brake kit for 65 Dart?

Brakes for your Classic Mopar

  1. Arizona

    Arizona Former Yooper, always a MoPar fan.

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    Thanks to a change in direction I made yesterday with my project, I have decided that I need to change to disk brakes - and of course need recommendations. Since I won't have the stock engine* in it anymore I feel the need to go to disk brakes. Questions -

    Would you do front and rear or just front? Does it matter much if you do the conversion with the engine out? Would it be a lot easier or not really?

    Which kit would you get? Price is not necessarily a problem but I don't want to get racing quality 'cause I ain't gonna race like that.

    Did you run into problems with the kits - wrong/missing parts or anything?

    *Jake Burt is sort of responsible for my change in direction. I posted asking for advice on how to break the heads free on my 273 2BBL so I could get it apart and get the heads rebuilt. Jake emailed me saying he had a Commando engine for sale. Long story short, it is now in my garage waiting to get in my 65 Dart. It is a fabulous engine built above Commando specs - 40 over, hydraulic lifters, and all new parts. I think I will call it the Commando+. It runs flawlessly and will be perfect for the Dart. Jake was great to buy from. His price on it was more than fair and he also gave me a few extra 65 parts he had - some of which he will now get back, like the brake shoes/pads. Thanks Jake!

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for your help with the disks.
    Jim
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2018
  2. A833

    A833 Active Member

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    I used the disc setup from a 73-76 Duster ect. Used all from the lower control arm up. Use the big ball joints also and the one piece rotors. Bolts right in. Dump that single master cylinder, go with a dual and plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve in the line for the rear brakes and you're good to go. I also up graded to an 8 3/4 rear and swapped in big bolt pattern axles (5 on 4.5" to match new front rotors) and 11"x 2.5" drum set up from an E body. Discs all around is the best but in a early A body like ours, drums in the rear are plenty. Post some pics of you're project for us early A fans.
     
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    • pauly

      pauly MOPAR or no car! FABO Gold Member

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      Depends on if you want to run big bolt pattern wheels or small bolt pattern.
       
    • 65 Dartman

      65 Dartman FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      I will be also going with the 73-76 LBP disc setup less the lower control arm. I will be swapping the calipers to the rear as I will also be using a Hellwig early A sway bar. Going with a 73-76 disc master cylinder. The rear will be an 8.75 with LBP axles and a 94-04 Mustang based disc setup. Engine will be a 66 Commando with hydraulic lifters.
       
    • stroked340

      stroked340 Well-Known Member

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      Wilwood..bolted right on no problems better lighter and nicer looking then any of that old been around forever rusty factory crap:eek::eek:
       
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      • memike

        memike Super Moderator Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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        73-76 LBP disc setup, bolted right on and any part can be found at any auto parts or salvage yard, very happy.

        000096.jpg

        29134026_2002186653130004_7123778670069547008_n.jpg
         
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        • Arizona

          Arizona Former Yooper, always a MoPar fan.

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          There are lots in my photo garage, not sure how to help you find it... more will be coming soon.
           
        • A833

          A833 Active Member

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          valiant 221.jpg valiant 222.jpg
          Here are the pics I took after install, Got all the calipers, hoses, wheel bearings and pads at my local auto parts store. By the way I went with silicone brake fluid also.
           
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          • BillGrissom

            BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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            The "best kit" might be the factory 1964-72 Kelsey-Hayes front disks, which were also used on Mustangs, but very rare. I doubt you can find 1973+ front disks in "any junkyard" today, as memike said. It is rare to find any pre-1980 Mopar car around northern CA today and most are quickly stripped in a few days. But, you can buy the 1973+ kit new for ~$500 from many sellers. Wilwood is ~$750, then you are locked to them for expensive spare parts. Rear disks are mainly for show. You may find you need to change your rear-end to handle a beefed-up engine. If so, some people use a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear (cut down), which gives your rear disks gratis.
             
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            • billccm

              billccm Well-Known Member

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              Before you buy at least consider Dr Diff. Perhaps send a email for advice from the doctor?
               
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              • easyrider

                easyrider 65 droptop

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                The front disc setup from a 1985 Dodge Diplomat will work. They are cheep and can still be found in junk yards. You'll need to buy an adapter from Dr. Diff for the top Ball joint. Use the steering arm from your car and you're good to go.
                 
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                • toolmanmike

                  toolmanmike FABO Staff Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Best, cheapest, easiest to install, easiest to find repair parts for. There are many different answers.
                   
                • Commando66

                  Commando66 She's a beaut Clark!

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                  There are a few questions you should answer first. Do you want to stay with small bolt pattern(SBP)? Move up to large bolt pattern(LBP)? Make any suspension upgrades at the same time? Scarebird has some pretty good options Mopar
                  You wouldn't have to tear into your front suspension either.
                   
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                  • easyrider

                    easyrider 65 droptop

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                    I tried the Scarebird route. Wasn't happy at all. Was so disappointed that I ALMOST sold my car. Glad I didn't.
                     
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                    • Commando66

                      Commando66 She's a beaut Clark!

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                      What went wrong? I don't have any personal experience, but a couple friends have used them on an A100 and a Sweptline.
                       
                    • Arizona

                      Arizona Former Yooper, always a MoPar fan.

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                      I am not going to upgrade anything more than the brakes. It is a 273 car so it is built to handle what I have, and I am not going to be driving it anywhere near that hard. I have done enough damage to my cars in the past to know what it takes to break a Mopar. I did manage to destroy the rear end in my '68 Barracuda doing neutral drops.... :(
                       
                    • Arizona

                      Arizona Former Yooper, always a MoPar fan.

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                      True. I just want disc in the front for safety. Best to me means mid-range on all things if that is possible. Not racing quality. Mid-price, not the hardest to work on or get parts for.
                       
                    • easyrider

                      easyrider 65 droptop

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                      I had my hubs re-drilled for the 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. The wheels with the bigger bolt pattern have a larger center hole. I tried using hub centric rings, but that didn't work very well. I still have all that stuff if someone wants it. $100. plus the ride and its yours.
                       
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                      • GoDartGo

                        GoDartGo thread killer un-member

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                        I have the Scarebird set up, no problems.
                         
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                        • jas0162

                          jas0162 Well-Known Member

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                          I have the Scarebird stuff on my car and it works great. I like it that you can get all the replacement parts at any parts store, and I used the 9 inch drum spindles I already had. It is far from the last word in high performance but it is a huge improvement over the stock drums.
                           
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                          • easyrider

                            easyrider 65 droptop

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                            Spindles, hubs, calipers, rotors, pads and Scarebird brackets for both sides. $100 plus the trip.
                             
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                            • D_Matheson

                              D_Matheson Matheson Sports Car

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                              I recently asked this question myself, but I couldn't find a compromise between performance, price, wheel fitment, and spare part affordability. I've decided to go my own way and build my own. MSC_Rally Cuda_Assy6.PNG MSC_Rally Cuda_ExplView1.PNG
                               
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                              • Arizona

                                Arizona Former Yooper, always a MoPar fan.

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                                This looks like the best bet to me. I was planning on master/porp valve anyway and this includes them. Have any of you used kits or parts from this company? Thanks, Jim

                                MDC66SD
                                 
                              • GoDartGo

                                GoDartGo thread killer un-member

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                                by the scale of the drawing, that spacer looks to be 1/2" or more thick.
                                 
                              • Jimacuda

                                Jimacuda Well-Known Member

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                                I should have an FMJ disc set-up out in the shop if you'd like to check it out.
                                Easy to find replacement parts.
                                I'm at base of S. Mountain in Phx.
                                 
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