Best Penetrant to Remove Differential U-Bolts?

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dibbons

dibbons

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Going to remove the rear end from the '65 Formula S in order to tip it on its side and paint the bottom floorboard. I hear PB Blaster is good (don't know if it's sold in stores around here). Any other recommendations? Thank you.
 
PB Blaster worked the best for me! It needs to set and maybe more than one application. Patience!
 
All of the above, and add Kroil to the list. Depending on how long the bolts have been undisturbed, you will likely need multiple applications. When I have something crusty to disassemble I give it a dose every day for several days before giving it a try.
 
Any the above. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Kroil. Then time, and patience. Brush the exposed threads with a small wire brush first. Allow the penetrant to soak for a day. When you put your socket on ti, try tightening first but only 1/16 of a turn. Then loosen but do not try to remove all at once if it gets so hard to turn it feels like it will break. Work the nut back and forth until it comes off easily.

Some folks just cut and replace all the U bolts, 'cause doing all 8 like this can take some time.
 
I was wondering about what to buy as well.
WD40 used to be the standard for me but screw those guys...I've had almost every can in the last couple of years develop some failure.
Some would only spray sideways, upside down or after shaking. Some just quit spraying even with the can about 1/2 full.
PB Blaster smells bad to me but it does seem to work.
Never tried Kroil but I have heard that it is NOT cheap.
 
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I hear diesel mixed with trans fluid works. Never tried it. Another cool product for working with sticky nuts (HA ya I said it) is a product that plumbers use for tapping pipe. It's called Edge Cream by Tappomatic. Little bit goes a long way.
 
Patience! They all work but PB blaster is faster! JMO
 
Aircraft mechanic buddy swears by this. Won't use anything else. IDK.
Airplane price so it's probably cheaper to buy new u bolts, lol.
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After using kroil, I threw the rest of my penetrants out. This stuff really works!

I don't know if The Kroil company still does it, but when I ordered my stuff online, they gave me a free aerosol can of their penetrant. So it was buy one, get one for free. I still have it, a little bit goes a long way.
 
Bodyperson said:
I hear diesel mixed with trans fluid works. Never tried it. Another cool product for working with sticky nuts (HA ya I said it) is a product that plumbers use for tapping pipe. It's called Edge Cream by Tappomatic. Little bit goes a long way.
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I have used trans fluid mixed with acetone It works great.
 
dibbons said:
Going to remove the rear end from the '65 Formula S in order to tip it on its side and paint the bottom floorboard. I hear PB Blaster is good (don't know if it's sold in stores around here). Any other recommendations? Thank you.
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I'm surprised you haven't heard of ATF mixed with acetone. ATF is used in in rural areas. I save Dexron and mix a batch up now and then. Works pretty darn good. My 2 cents. Typed too slow. Brian beat me to it.
 
U bolts are cheap. The fight isnt worth $30 imho.
I bought new ones for the barracuda,i have removed my diff 6 times now, roll it in shop, set up rotisserie and pull diff and springs.
Sunday i re-assemble and roll it back into storage.
 
Instead of wasting time and penetrating oil, just get a good hacksaw blade. It will slice them in no time. Cut them at the very top. Done. Unless of course you have access to a torch.
 
Tooljunkie said:
U bolts are cheap. The fight isnt worth $30 imho.
I bought new ones for the barracuda,i have removed my diff 6 times now, roll it in shop, set up rotisserie and pull diff and springs.
Sunday i re-assemble and roll it back into storage.
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Agreed. About half seem to gall and twist off anyway.
 
I read somewhere that replacement u-bolts are not flat (like factory ones) where they contact the differential tubes and when you tighten them down, they actually dent the tubes. Any truth to that?
 
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moparmandan said:
Aircraft mechanic buddy swears by this. Won't use anything else. IDK.
Airplane price so it's probably cheaper to buy new u bolts, lol.
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Years ago I had a neighbor that was a machinest at a local AFB and he gave me what he had left of some Mouse' Milk. This stuff worked equally as well. I used up what was left and couldn't locate this stuff on the open market. That was over 30yrs ago, nice to see that its still available. Well worth the money. Plus it doesn't smell like many of today's solvents do.
 
Cut them off and replace, don’t reuse U bolts, they’re too cheap not to replace.
 
Tinmannz said:
Years ago I had a neighbor that was a machinest at a local AFB and he gave me what he had left of some Mouse' Milk. This stuff worked equally as well. I used up what was left and couldn't locate this stuff on the open market. That was over 30yrs ago, nice to see that its still available. Well worth the money. Plus it doesn't smell like many of today's solvents do.
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My buddy had me pick up a bottle for him at a local aircraft supply place that was on my way home. Chief Aircraft. Think they do mail order. I remember it was pricey.
 
dibbons said:
I read somewhere that replacement u-bolts are not flat (like factory ones( where they contact the differential tubes and when you tighten them down, they actually dent the tubes. Any truth to that?
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Nope, just tighten them down evenly.
 
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