Big Block distributor/ oil pump rotation direction?

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Hemioutlaw

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This may be seen as a dumb question but i'm old and humble so don't give an F.

Revamping my 69' this week that had sat for almost five yrs. New fuel lines, drained and cleaned the tank and rebuilt the carb. I have an oil pump primer I want to use prior to startup and unsure which way the pump turns to send oil up top.....
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It's counterclockwise.. that's why the mopar bible says make sure you have a reversible drill handy...
 
counterclockwise , rotate engine as you spin the primer. rockers get lubed every other revolution . keep going til your sure the lifters are full . takes a while
 
CCW on the pump and you only have to put the engine in two spots to lube the valvetrain. You don't have to rotate the engine slowly, you just rotate to the spot where the passage in the camshaft lines up with the passage in the block.
 
Something I've found helpful, either B/RB or SB. Start with the filter off, and a hose attached to the sender port. I use a hose rigged with an air quick connect that matches my compression gauge. Crank and watch the filter port with a pan under. You should only have to crank maybe 1-2 seconds and get oil out the filter mount. This relieves head pressure and aids the pump to prime. Then pre-fill the filter and install, and point your sender hose somewhere safe, and crank until you get oil there. Then you can install the gauge, and as noted above^^ turn the engine so the cam oil holes feed the top end. The drill should bog pretty heavy when pumping oil.

Be aware that if you simply use a hex shaft you can chew up the distributor drive bushing.
 
CCW on the pump and you only have to put the engine in two spots to lube the valvetrain. You don't have to rotate the engine slowly, you just rotate to the spot where the passage in the camshaft lines up with the passage in the block.

Thanks for the advice...Is there a way to know where that spot is?
 
Something I've found helpful, either B/RB or SB. Start with the filter off, and a hose attached to the sender port. I use a hose rigged with an air quick connect that matches my compression gauge. Crank and watch the filter port with a pan under. You should only have to crank maybe 1-2 seconds and get oil out the filter mount. This relieves head pressure and aids the pump to prime. Then pre-fill the filter and install, and point your sender hose somewhere safe, and crank until you get oil there. Then you can install the gauge, and as noted above^^ turn the engine so the cam oil holes feed the top end. The drill should bog pretty heavy when pumping oil.

Be aware that if you simply use a hex shaft you can chew up the distributor drive bushing.

I have never had to do that , 5 diff hotrods ,2 were chevies the rest mopar , all picked up and circulated oil very quickly , many times on a s/s hemi in 14 years.
 
I have never had to do that , 5 diff hotrods ,2 were chevies the rest mopar , all picked up and circulated oil very quickly , many times on a s/s hemi in 14 years.

I'm sure. ---and they should. But there are plenty of threads here and other sites where guys have fought trying to prime a pump. REmoving the filter removes the head at the pump. If it will ever prime or at all, it will do so easiest with the filter removed.
 
Yep, sometimes the pump won't prime due to an air bubble. If that happens you just crack the oil filter loose and spin the pump real slow. Once the air bubble escapes the oil will start to flow. I've had to do that a few times over the years.
 
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