Blower motor runs all the time
- Thread starter Rd2Scamp
- Start date
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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Or the thing is plugged into the wrong circuit. There better not be a Pink or Orange wire hooked up to it,lol.
You’ve indicated the blower switch doesn’t work. How about you tell us where the wires go to from the blower motor? Keep in mind none of us have seen your car so we have no clue what might be wrong other than confirming to you your switch isn’t working.
We also want your motor to work like new too! Time to do some troubleshooting and report back to us.
We also want your motor to work like new too! Time to do some troubleshooting and report back to us.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Refer to a schematic. If like most blower circuits until ~2000, one wire goes to ground. The other wire is thru the switch which selects different resistors to put in series w/ the motor to control speed. The "high" position is "no resistor", which gives max current and usually so much that any connection resistance overheats and melts parts, like usually the plastic parts of the switch itself and the pneumo-push-button switch too, if your car has that. These resistors are usually in the climate air flow (to cool them, so they don't melt). You should see a plastic panel on the side of the climate box w/ electrical plug where they sit. I don't recall if removable in an old Dart. But, the resistors probably aren't the problem.
In my 1969 Dart, the blower switch was L, M, H. The "off" function was via the 5-button push switch, so that is probably your problem. Mine melted inside, which is common. When I installed a new switch (~$100 today), I added a relay so the "Hi" position turned on a relay to power the blower, taking that load off the switches so they wouldn't melt again. Same deal in my 1985 M-B, so I guess all cars were almost expected to melt stuff on "blower high", at some time after the factory warranty expired.
In my 1969 Dart, the blower switch was L, M, H. The "off" function was via the 5-button push switch, so that is probably your problem. Mine melted inside, which is common. When I installed a new switch (~$100 today), I added a relay so the "Hi" position turned on a relay to power the blower, taking that load off the switches so they wouldn't melt again. Same deal in my 1985 M-B, so I guess all cars were almost expected to melt stuff on "blower high", at some time after the factory warranty expired.
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