Bonding Fiberglass scoop to a steel hood

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fredsmedina

fredsmedina

6 Dart 7 MOPAR OR NOCAR
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I have a stock steel hood on my '67 dart, and i bought a bolt-on scoop 6-pack for it. Although its bolt on, I still want to bond the hood on somehow to give the area a "smooth transition" if that makes sense.

And once I bond it, I will be painting it Hot rod(satin) black. I know that i cant use bondo, because this will just crack. but what should I use to bond my scoop onto my hood??

has anyone done this? do u ahve pics of your completed hood?

thanks FABO!
 
okay,step 1) first off you need to take your hood down to bare metal where you are going to put the scoop. I would recommend taking down the whole hood but its up to you.

2), spray an acid, or etching primer down, this is to help adhesion.

3), Now you can go with a few options, Bondo is okay just use it sparingly. Fiberglass resin will also work. You can even go with a two part epoxey, just make sure it's for automotive applications.

If you go direct to metal you run the risk of getting moisture under your bondo or resin, and thats what makes your scoop popup and crack.

4) If you go with bondo or resin spread it out about 3 to 5 inches past the scoop. This will help strengthen the scoop and it will also help when you when you smooth it out. just remember to keep it on the thin side. Also use a tiny amount more activator so it will dry fully. bondo has a tendency to shrink over time. I would let it sit for a day before you start sanding on it.

5) After you choose what you're going to use, put somthing heavy on your scoop to help sink it down. (phone books, etc)

6) After all that you're ready for primer and paint. Hope this helps.
 
I would only use body filler to do the finish work once the scoop has been properly bonded to the hood. I would recomend the fusor just make sure you get the correct one as they make different types for different applications. just follow the directions on the data sheet.
 
Don't use fiberglass, it will crack as well! My steel hood has cracks in every corner of the fiberglass scoop where it was attached to the hood using fiberglass resin.
 
Thank you OldskoolKool,rjsjea, gunmetal 72, and swisswill for the tips...After doing more research since this thread, It seems as though I do everything correct, I shouldn't have too many issues bonding the fiberglass to the steel hood..
The fusor FUS 127 at http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/fusor.aspx seems like it should be what I need..
So I am thinking I should
1. Take the hood to bare metal.
2. prime the hood (with an etching primer?)
3. I will bond the hood with this fusor product, and let that fully cure.
4. I will use bondo, and spread it out 3-5 inches to get the smooth look..
5. Time to paint the hood

Any other suggestions or corrections to my plan?

Thanks in advance!
 
I used a flexible and paintable sealer to put a small fillet radius on the bottom edge. Then painted the whole bonnet, looked good.
 
Fusor bonding for metal is not to be used on painted or primed sufaces. Bare steel only.
 
I have used the glue you put glass in the new cars but be sure you have it were you want it you only have minutes to work with it. and wen it sets you will destroy it taking it off......Artie
 
I would look into the bonding adhesive used to attach Corvette panels. It's a lot like bondo. Corvettes have metal reinforcements behind the fiberglass and the bonding adhesive is used to join panel to panel and also panel to metal. Just make sure you're going to bare metal and you rough it up good. I would use 36 grit on a DA sander.
 
Subscribed, I just got a fiberglass hemi scoop. And this info will come in handy. Thanks to all involved. Dave
 
69383valiant said:
Subscribed, I just got a fiberglass hemi scoop. And this info will come in handy. Thanks to all involved. Dave
Click to expand...

Can I ask which scoop you bought? I am thinking about going this route also. A whole fiberglass hood is too expensive and hard to ship, but I want to go with this look.
 
4404spd said:
Fusor bonding for metal is not to be used on painted or primed sufaces. Bare steel only.
Click to expand...

good to know..I would have gone by the directions once I get the product anyways..

I just am trying to figure out which option would be the best to get my scoop attached. and also, hoping people have personally done some of these things before and can share experiences!

Thanks for the tip 65DartGTConv about using 36 on the dual action...
 
Yes I use the Vette adhesive as well. I just used it to fix the rear fenders on my buddies 08 Ram dually. It dries super fast!!! I have also used it to repair some door panels and such. You have to work fast! Once it sets up its stuck!

You can use it with glass mat for strength. Its like $40 a quart. Good thing is it uses the same hardener as bondo and metal glaze.

Good stuff!
 

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CUUDAK said:
Yes I use the Vette adhesive as well. I just used it to fix the rear fenders on my buddies 08 Ram dually. It dries super fast!!! I have also used it to repair some door panels and such. You have to work fast! Once it sets up its stuck!

You can use it with glass mat for strength. Its like $40 a quart. Good thing is it uses the same hardener as bondo and metal glaze.

Good stuff!
Click to expand...
I will do more of my own research on that stuff too then! but its made for bonding fiberglass to steel?

and when you say "you can use it with glass mat", what do you mean?
 
fredsmedina said:
I will do more of my own research on that stuff too then! but its made for bonding fiberglass to steel?

and when you say "you can use it with glass mat", what do you mean?
Click to expand...

Yes it will bond any substrate! I used it to rebuild the armrest pad reinforcement in a 99 Blazer which is vinyl and plastic. Also rebuilt a headlight pocket on a Ford 9000 heavy truck. I used the aluminum duct tape to form the pocket and layed saturated mat in place. Once cured (5 minutes maybe) I just pulled the tape and final sanded it. Works great. Once cured it is HARD as a ROCK!!

The glass mat that i mentioned is just that. Same glass mat used with fiberglass resin. The white mat that you can get woven or layered. When you use the glass mat you will need to mix less hardener with the adhesive to slow the cure process enough to saturate the mat thoroughly.
 
BrianT said:
Can I ask which scoop you bought? I am thinking about going this route also. A whole fiberglass hood is too expensive and hard to ship, but I want to go with this look.
Click to expand...
pm. Sent Brian, hemi scoop measurements 36wide,26deep,4inch in front.
 
CUUDAK said:
Yes it will bond any substrate! I used it to rebuild the armrest pad reinforcement in a 99 Blazer which is vinyl and plastic. Also rebuilt a headlight pocket on a Ford 9000 heavy truck. I used the aluminum duct tape to form the pocket and layed saturated mat in place. Once cured (5 minutes maybe) I just pulled the tape and final sanded it. Works great. Once cured it is HARD as a ROCK!!

The glass mat that i mentioned is just that. Same glass mat used with fiberglass resin. The white mat that you can get woven or layered. When you use the glass mat you will need to mix less hardener with the adhesive to slow the cure process enough to saturate the mat thoroughly.
Click to expand...

Although the instructions make it clear that it can be used on metals, and fiberglass, the Evercoat 870 instructions dont include what to do to bond metal to fiberglass...only fiberglass to fiberglass. Could you give me more of an idea of how exactly I should use this stuff? looking around, it does seem like it will work for exactly what I am trying to do though! So thanks..

Should I take the hood to bare metal, and then put this stuff between the scoop and the hood? or bolt down the scoop, and then use this as body filler to create a smooth 'transition'? It does seem that either way, I can use this as a body filler to do the final smoothing out before priming/painting the hood..
 
Plexus 420 metal to fiberglass adhesive. We use it everyday in our manufacturing facility and it is awesome.
 
fredsmedina said:
Although the instructions make it clear that it can be used on metals, and fiberglass, the Evercoat 870 instructions dont include what to do to bond metal to fiberglass...only fiberglass to fiberglass. Could you give me more of an idea of how exactly I should use this stuff? looking around, it does seem like it will work for exactly what I am trying to do though! So thanks..

Should I take the hood to bare metal, and then put this stuff between the scoop and the hood? or bolt down the scoop, and then use this as body filler to create a smooth 'transition'? It does seem that either way, I can use this as a body filler to do the final smoothing out before priming/painting the hood..
Click to expand...

Yes, bare metal with a 36 grit sanding disc as well as the bottom side of the scoop (LIGHTLY, don't cut into the scoop to far!). Apply the adhesive and then bolt it down. Let it dry for a hour and then you can fill the creases with the same adhesive after you rough sand it with 80 grit. When filling the crease I use the top side of the plastic spreader that way it gives you an even bevel. Then you will sand it with 80 grit then use evercoat metal glaze to smooth everything out. Finish sand the metal glaze with 180 grit then prime with filler primer, block it out and shoot the color. Done.

There are 3 different part numbers for that adhesive. Each one has different bonding characteristics.
 
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