Brakes going soft after raising car?

Brakes for your Classic Mopar

  1. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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    I don't know why I posted "would not lubricate". Of course I mean I would. Gettin more stupid I guess.
     
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    • DentalDart

      DentalDart Well-Known Member

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      I understood what you meant to say :thumbsup:
       
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      • DentalDart

        DentalDart Well-Known Member

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        I adjusted the rear brakes, 2 clicks on each side. Made the pedal feel more firm thats for sure... I also raised my front drivers side to adjust my transmission and what do you know... if feels like I got air in it again :mad::BangHead::wtf: good news, transmission feels better, brake pedal is higher but bad news is I will bleed them again... I will also tighten the lines to ensure the fittings are slipping ever so slightly allowing air to get in.

        We are at the park again so it'll happen later tonight and I probably won't be able to drive the car after because it will be to late.

        Question- I've done it both ways (with help from wife) when you all bleed your brakes do you press the pedal and open bleeder. Or do you pump the pedal 3x before opening the bleeder?
         
      • RustyRatRod

        RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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        Sounds like you have some air trapped in the system that keeps getting up to the master cylinder when you jack the car around.
         
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        • DentalDart

          DentalDart Well-Known Member

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          Yeah thats what I am thinking as well, I dont know how to get it out though. I've literally bled the brakes so many times. But most of the times the system was bled was before I made and installed the new brake lines. I guess I have multiple jobs on the car this week...
           
        • RustyRatRod

          RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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          Maybe put the front of the up on stands and remove the master cylinder cap and let it sit a few days.
           
        • DentalDart

          DentalDart Well-Known Member

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          And this could help bring the air up the lines and into the mc right?
           
        • RustyRatRod

          RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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          Very possibly.
           
        • Tooljunkie

          Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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          Raising front end to get air to top may work. Leaving cap off? Rob i disagree. Brake fluid absorbs mousture from the air.

          when i bleed brakes, i use a pedal depressor and do it myself. One pump,lock pedal down and open bleeder EB45C00E-D564-4CAA-AD21-DB8608E9966C.jpeg
           
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          • Tooljunkie

            Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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            Many many times i just gravity bleed. No pedal action whatsoever. Cap off and keep resevoir full. One bleeder at a time. Two or three minutes per bleeder, and i watch closely for bubbles. I just refill between closing and opening next one.
             
          • Tooljunkie

            Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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            Left front. You get air immediately? Reason i ask is to determine if air is in caliper or up the line somewhere. calipers, in front or drum brakes. I dont recall.
             
          • RustyRatRod

            RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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            Although air is not "in the system" normally, there is air between the cap and top of the fluid in the master cylinder. There is also a vent in the master cylinder cap. The cap is there only to keep fluid from spilling out, it's not an air tight system. That's not how it works. I do agree brake fluid does absorb moisture. But it's designed to. At least everything but DOT5. Were it not for fluid sloshin all over the place, you could throw the masted cylinder lid in the ditch and go.
             
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            • DentalDart

              DentalDart Well-Known Member

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              That pedal depressor is nice, I've used my syringe bleeder before and it worked pretty well. I've also gravity bled my brakes before as well, the only problem with that is the rears barely gravity bleed at all.

              I have front discs and rear drums.
               
            • Tooljunkie

              Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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              Its air tight enough. Alcohol base fluid, will take on moisture.
              Most master cylinder boots are designed to drop with the fluid,vent in cap is to allow air in above the boot, designed to work like a bellows.
               
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              • Tooljunkie

                Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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                3/8” round bar,steel platd with a 3/8 hole. Knob is to push on. wedge plate against front of seat. Easy.
                 
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                • RustyRatRod

                  RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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                  I agree, but still it's not air tight as far as moisture. That's the whole reason for recommended brake fluid changes, because it gets contaminated over time. It won't hurt a thing to leave the cap off a day or two. He can put a shop cloth over it if he's skiddish.
                   
                  Last edited: Nov 22, 2020 at 8:04 PM
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