break in oil and changes

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roylerumble

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I had a 360 LA bored out .40 over, 408 stroker, solid lifters,larger oil pan. I'm getting ready to fire it up in the next week or so and want to make sure I have the right oil to crank it over, and then get the proper oil changes done in the break in process. I have some 30w in the garage, and I was going to put Lucas break in additive. How much additive should I put it? Is 30W the right oil to use to fire it up and then run for a bit? After I've fired it up, when should I dump the oil and change, and at what interval should I change it again, 500mi?

link to the lucas additive
ENGINE BREAK IN OIL ADDITIVE
 
If it is not a break in specific 30 grade oil I wouldn't use it. I would get a real break in oil, or a 5w30 oil and add your Lucas to that.

I'm not a fan of single grade engine oils. I'm also not a fan of oil additives. For what you are doing, the Lucas stuff is pretty good and effective.
 
I use 5W-30 or 10W-30 conventional oil and one of the break in oil additives with high zddp. I change it at 50 miles, 500 miles, and 1,500 miles. Then again at 4,000 miles and at that point, it’s OK to switch to a synthetic with proper zddp levels if you choose.
 
I also have a 408 getting ready for break in, I was planning on using Joe Gibbs BR 40 which is a 10w 40, I have a flat tappet cam and Im told this stuff has a very high Zinc content needed for break in, I wont run it more than 300 miles with it.Then I will run a high Zinc content 10w40 maybe Lucas, this was my engine builders recommendation.
 
Personally, i would use a good name brand break in oil in the 5W 30 range with a good filter like a Wix.
Then after the cam is broken in, i would change the oil and filter after about 30 to 50 miles and then use the zinc additive to a good conventional oil, again with a good filter. (you might as well buy a case of them)
BTW, make sure you pre lube the engine before you attempt to start it! (Very important)
I would definitely not use a straight 30 weight oil.
 
correct me if Im wrong, but isn't a multi viscosity oil like 5w 20 or 10w 30 suitable for multi temperatures and the 5w or 10w refers to the cold weather viscosity, lower the W number the thinner at cold temps? So SAE 30 would be the same at any temp? And break in oil has zinc and phosphorus addivitves for break in. Or is there a difference between conventional oil and break in oils....?
 
correct me if Im wrong, but isn't a multi viscosity oil like 5w 20 or 10w 30 suitable for multi temperatures and the 5w or 10w refers to the cold weather viscosity, lower the W number the thinner at cold temps? So SAE 30 would be the same at any temp? And break in oil has zinc and phosphorus addivitves for break in. Or is there a difference between conventional oil and break in oils....?


The issue is cold start and actual operating temp oil viscosity.

The oil will act like the winter grade number on start up and when at operating temp it will act like a 30. A 30 will be like a 30 on cold start and get thinner with temp.

The reason for single grade oils is that before WWII is that Viscosity Index Improvers were pretty rare, and what was available was sketchy at best. After the war, the VI Improvers because better and now are damn near fool proof. I say damn near because I've seen guys use oils with alcohol that weren't alcohol compatible and the results were bad at best.
 
correct me if Im wrong, but isn't a multi viscosity oil like 5w 20 or 10w 30 suitable for multi temperatures and the 5w or 10w refers to the cold weather viscosity, lower the W number the thinner at cold temps? So SAE 30 would be the same at any temp? And break in oil has zinc and phosphorus addivitves for break in. Or is there a difference between conventional oil and break in oils....?

Look at it this way.
The 5w30 oil is going to act like a 5 weight oil during start up of a COLD engine no matter if it's 40 below or 100 above zero.
Also, the ''w'' stands for winter not weight.
So, 5w30 is actually 5 winter 30 not 5 weight 30 as a lot of people believe.
When the engine is stone cold, the engine is in ''winter'' mode, so the viscosity of 5 is faster and easier to get to major lubricating points as early as possible. The oil thickens to 30 as the engine warms up.
After the initial break in with the break in oil, you still need to have a high zinc etc. package in the future oil for the rest of the engine's life whether it is already in the oil or it is added to conventional oils during the oil change.
Unless you have a roller cam, this is the reality of using a flat tappet cam these days in an older engine............
 
The issue is cold start and actual operating temp oil viscosity.

The oil will act like the winter grade number on start up and when at operating temp it will act like a 30. A 30 will be like a 30 on cold start and get thinner with temp.

The reason for single grade oils is that before WWII is that Viscosity Index Improvers were pretty rare, and what was available was sketchy at best. After the war, the VI Improvers because better and now are damn near fool proof. I say damn near because I've seen guys use oils with alcohol that weren't alcohol compatible and the results were bad at best.
Great post.............
I was typing mine as you were posting yours!
 
use a true break in oil is best in my opinion. why risk it?? COMP Cams Engine Break-In Oil 1590

after break in then change the oil. i use this Joe Gibbs Driven HR-2 Conventional High Performance Motor Oil 02006
Joe Gibbs Driven HR-2 conventional high performance motor oil provides excellent startup and storage protection for small block engines and crate motors. Using oil additive technology developed for the US military's combat equipment, this multi-grade, high zinc content formula delivers proper anti-wear protection for older-style pushrod and flat-tappet engines. The same chemistry that's found in the Joe Gibbs Driven racing oil that has powered Joe Gibbs Racing to multiple NASCAR championships offers superior camshaft wear protection
 
Products

I use both of these products....the cam paste for coating the camshaft....and oil additive during break-in and a each oil change...

We got 8 engines with Flat tappets .....dump the 4 oz bottle into any 5 qt jug of your favorite oil shake...presto...you got oil with high zinc level.
 
How in the world did we survive before break-in oils were invented? Oh the humanity!!!
 
This is simple. Use Lucas brand motor oil. it has 2400 ppm of ZDDP. It's called "Hot Rod Oil" and comes in all the popular weights/grades. You can also add the Lucas zinc additive, although totally not necessary. This way, you have ZDDP in the OIL and it's not added. Lucas has all the right additives for use as a break in or everyday oil. I run it myself.
 
Oil had the proper additives in it. Has since been removed for emission purposes. That’s how. :)
This has been going on since before the ZDDP was removed from the oils... but it has escalated since there's a lot of $$$ in selling $9.00 per quart oils.

I don't disagree that you need the proper amount of ZDDP in a break-in situation but some guys are losing sleep over this... go figure.
 
Use the amount of additive lucas recomends , and if u want to use the 30 weight u have, just preheat it
 
How in the world did we survive before break-in oils were invented? Oh the humanity!!!


Would you run the same tires, intakes, cams or heads from 50 years ago?


Time to step up and understand oil is the same. It has evolved. Just like cylinder wall prep. And piston rings. It's stupid to save a few dollars on junk oil. And yes, I've tested oil. And fuel. It costs to do it correctly.

Good oil also saves valve springs.
 
I never seen oil thicker hot than cold 15w 50 will hardly pour when cold and when hot it pours just fine .it might be more stable when hot but thicker i'm not convinced .
 
I never seen oil thicker hot than cold 15w 50 will hardly pour when cold and when hot it pours just fine .it might be more stable when hot but thicker i'm not convinced .

Me either. I just got tired of arguing about it.
 
Would you run the same tires, intakes, cams or heads from 50 years ago?


Time to step up and understand oil is the same. It has evolved. Just like cylinder wall prep. And piston rings. It's stupid to save a few dollars on junk oil. And yes, I've tested oil. And fuel. It costs to do it correctly.

Good oil also saves valve springs.
On my last hot rod build I ran 820x15 bias ply slicks, a 60's vintage Cragar blower intake, a Clay Smith cam and Triple Nickel '55 354 heads so yeah I would run what guys did 50 years ago!!!!:rofl:

I'm just kinda smiling at the guys that are so caught up in the latest and greatest oils and additives when they are rebuilding a slant 6 or stockish 318 with a stock cam and valve springs.

Once I get my local Farm and Barn 'racing oil' tested I'll publish the results. I would bet that $3.00 per quart oil has most of the zddp that the boutique oils have. Don't get me wrong.... I don't have a problem with any of the Penn Grade, Lucas, CenPeCo, Shaeffer, etc oils... just a bit too high dollar for me if I can get the same performance for less.

Might just use some old school non-detergent with EOS added....:confederateflag:
 
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