Budget 383 build - opinions needed

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roadrunnerh

roadrunnerh

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Several years ago I picked up a ’68 383 long block. I bought it from a friend of a friend who said it was running when pulled. It is a 9.2:1 2bbl motor. I disassembled it last year thinking I would do a total rebuild (my first ever). I have the resources to do this, but financially things have changed a little.
My questions to you more experienced Mopar heads;
What would be the minimum I would need to do to get this motor back together and running? I regret pulling it apart since it looked GOOD during disassembly. The goal is to swap this motor in my Scamp. I have included some pics - if they help with your answer. Could I re-ring the pistons and install all new bearings and freeze plugs and reassemble. Am I crazy?
Another option would be to rebuild the bottom end with new pistons, balance the factory rods and use the 906 heads as is. Please help me decide, and keep in mind I want this to be a stock build @300hp to install in my Scamp and have fun. Rather than post the pics again, here's the link to my FBBO thread....
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?55118-Budget-383-rebuild-opinions-needed
 
Depends on the condition of the cylinders. Is there much lip at the top of the cylinders that would indicate a lot of cylinder wear? Years ago we use to rebuild and engines by re ringing them and new bearings all the time. When I was young we didn't have the money to bore, new pistons, etc. If you could find some 1967 915 heads this would increase compression which in turn means more power.
 
Thanks for your response, there is somewhat of a lip....
How about rebuilding the short block and installing the cleaned up "as is" 906's? Which pistons would you use?
 
Well the closer to zero deck height the better as far as pistons. The 906's are a good head just open chamber so you lose a little compression. Which will be ok if you can get a set of pistons that are close to zero deck at TDC.
 
Did you save the rings and bearings? If so just reassemble it and run it. That's as budget as you can get.
 
The cyl's look kind of crummy from the pic, but can't tell for sure. I think a cheap and dirty hone and rering done by you would be ok, maybe new bearings if they look worn, also the cr with the 906 and thick feel pros is going to be in the 8 to 1 to maybe 8.5 to 1'if your lucky, even stock 516 heads will be better for what your trying to do than the 906.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Well the closer to zero deck height the better as far as pistons. The 906's are a good head just open chamber so you lose a little compression. Which will be ok if you can get a set of pistons that are close to zero deck at TDC.
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I don't understand. If it was 9.2:1 prior to disassembly, why would it be less if I just reassembled the motor? I thought this motor had lower compression from the factory because of those pistons.
 
roadrunnerh said:
I don't understand. If it was 9.2:1 prior to disassembly, why would it be less if I just reassembled the motor? I thought this motor had lower compression from the factory because of those pistons.
Click to expand...

There were never as advertised, 1/2 to 1 point lower do to production tolerances.
 
I'd check the block for wear and taper and go from there, and if you have the coins have the heads gone through. Might have the crank checked, turned and polished if needed maybe new cam bearings installed.
 
The engine had steel shim gaskets that were .020 thick the standard replacements are .040, you also should not use steel shim on the rebuild unless you make sure the deck and heads have been trued.
 
Thanks, I really appreciate all the input guys! I'm leaning toward complete rebuild - too many variables.
 
Also too,if you decide to use steel shim head gaskets, the heads have to be retorqued after initial engine break in.
 
I'd check the bores for roundness. If they or within tolerances you could ridge ream the lip and run a hone in the bores and re-ring stock pistons.
 
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