Build a 528 or 543?

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SGBARRACUDA

SGBARRACUDA

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I'd like to get some opinions on weather I should build a low deck 528 or a raised deck 543. I'm pretty sure I will buy the stroker kit from 440 Source. I'd like to hear your opinions on the pros and cons as far as rod ratio and bottom end durability of the two choices. This is going to be strictly racing in my 68 NSS Dart sedan. What do you think?
 
if your not using an aftermarket block build the low deck. The block is stronger, you will have less header issues if you choose to runn B1s or -1s.
 
What is the rest of the car looking like? What numbers do you need from it?
 
moper said:
What is the rest of the car looking like? What numbers do you need from it?
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68 Dart sedan Back half, narrowed 9",4.88 gear, 16x33 slicks, Glide w/ 4200 convertor, glass hood ,deck lid,bumper,fenders, maybe doors if I can find or make sedan doors for it. induction will change from single dominator to a Indy Rat roaster with 2- AFB's. I would guess 2800 lb Looking to run NSS-A or B.
 
...................Only build what ur heads can support............lots of times the smaller bullet will win as it has the supporting cast.......rod ratio is just an opinion............it really doesnt matter much at all......use a girdle........kim......
 
well with the 528 you might still be able to use the stock oil pickup, and with the 543 you will need and external oiling system. Also for the money I would start with a strong foundation and buy a new block for World products, because the stock block can be iffy
 
oldkimmer said:
...................Only build what ur heads can support............lots of times the smaller bullet will win as it has the supporting cast.......rod ratio is just an opinion............it really doesnt matter much at all......use a girdle........kim......
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Rules on the heads are pretty liberal. I'll probably go with some ported Indy 440-1's. And I was planing on the girdle.
 
440valiant said:
well with the 528 you might still be able to use the stock oil pickup, and with the 543 you will need and external oiling system. Also for the money I would start with a strong foundation and buy a new block for World products, because the stock block
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Trying to stay within a budget. Aftermarket blocks are Mucho $$$
 
I have a couple thoughts here... First, on the block choice... You will be doing significant work to get a factory block to run at this level, and it will definately give up and be junk in a shorter time. If you want consistancy over many years, you are MUCH better off with an aftermarket block as you will be prepping a second block eventually, especially if you race year round and every weekend. The engine you're talking about building is a $10,000 package at least. So spending an extra $2K on a real block might make sense. You're going to spend at least $3500 on machining and reinforcing parts to get the factory block ready to run at this level. Second, I dont see a 4.375 kit for the B wedge block... They have the 4.25 stroke with the B length rod, but my first choice would be the 4.15 B kit. You have what I'd call a heavy Glide car with mild gearing. You want a relatively flat torque curve, and low rpm. You'll need a new convertor anyway. The head packages you note are good for the 4.15 stroke, but I thinh you'd need more head for the larger choices. Stay with the longest rod you can, run the B block for longevity, and keep the heads that you mention to keep the torque up and the peaks flat.
 
moper said:
I have a couple thoughts here... First, on the block choice... You will be doing significant work to get a factory block to run at this level, and it will definately give up and be junk in a shorter time. If you want consistancy over many years, you are MUCH better off with an aftermarket block as you will be prepping a second block eventually, especially if you race year round and every weekend. The engine you're talking about building is a $10,000 package at least. So spending an extra $2K on a real block might make sense. You're going to spend at least $3500 on machining and reinforcing parts to get the factory block ready to run at this level. Second, I dont see a 4.375 kit for the B wedge block... They have the 4.25 stroke with the B length rod, but my first choice would be the 4.15 B kit. You have what I'd call a heavy Glide car with mild gearing. You want a relatively flat torque curve, and low rpm. You'll need a new convertor anyway. The head packages you note are good for the 4.15 stroke, but I thinh you'd need more head for the larger choices. Stay with the longest rod you can, run the B block for longevity, and keep the heads that you mention to keep the torque up and the peaks flat.
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No your right, the 528 and 543 are RB versions. They make the 4.15 or 4.250 for the B block. I think I will start with the 500 or 512 version till I get the car sorted out and then Maybe step up to a 540 with an aftermarket block. I have ran a glide and a 4200 convertor in another car that worked out real well but it was 500 lb lighter so I may need more convertor. I just bought a back half section and a narrowed 9" with a 4 link set up. I just took the rear apart and was pleasantly surprised. It had an aluminum Strange case with 4.88 and 35 spline spool that was all new, marking paint was still on the gears. This was somebody elses project that fell victum to the economy. Also has 15 x14 Convo Pros with 32x14x15 M/T slicks also new.
 
I like the longer rod 4.15 kit myself. A short rod engine will want serious ports, which is why I think smaller might be better for you. You will need a new convertor because the the engine is not the same one that was in front of it before. It also might be a good idea to have it broken in and dyno'd prior to ordering that convertor. I'm not a hardcore racer... but my understanding is the 2500lbs mark is the "magic" 'glide window. Above that you may be quicker with another gear, below it you'll be faster with only two speeds and a kick *** convertor letting the engine pull. I really would stay away from a huge RB with a real block. You're going to spend to either buy a real block, or get a factory one reliable at that level. Sounds like fun either way tho.
 
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