Building a 273

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@273Dynamite

If you want to stick with stock looking, I have a 273 4 barrel manifold that will fit the later heads. Not too close, but not too far from you either. Feel free to PM me if you’re interested.
 
Nice! what manifold did you use? and horsepower?
It had a Weiand Stealth intake when I got it so I put that back on. Not sure on horsepower.
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I wouldn't use the D dart as a recipe to follow, there's more streetable ways to make 275-300 plus hp. Mainly head flow, I would go with 360 or magnum heads, I wouldn't use the factory intake aftermarket will make better power.
 
What is the car going to be used for? Cruising? Drag strip? What rear end ratio and tire size? Headers? The 302 casting heads have interference issues using some early exhaust manifolds. Your '69 273 would also have come originally with a cast crank. That should handle 300 HP ok if properly balanced and no laughing gas, but, much more than that and I'd want to go forged. It would be cheaper and easier to get to 300HP by using a 318 or 360 as a starting point. Nothing wrong with using a 273 either....I have 3 A-bodies with them running the show! Good little motor, but, it's more a labor of love than being practical.
 
What is the car going to be used for? Cruising? Drag strip? What rear end ratio and tire size? Headers? The 302 casting heads have interference issues using some early exhaust manifolds. Your '69 273 would also have come originally with a cast crank. That should handle 300 HP ok if properly balanced and no laughing gas, but, much more than that and I'd want to go forged. It would be cheaper and easier to get to 300HP by using a 318 or 360 as a starting point. Nothing wrong with using a 273 either....I have 3 A-bodies with them running the show! Good little motor, but, it's more a labor of love than being practical.

Don’t think so on the cast crank 273. I went and looked it up and they all had steel cranks.
 
Nope, '64-7 did, but, in '68 they went to cast. Same time they went to the larger converter register.
 
The 273 is a good little motor. However, it’s a bit endemic in the low end due to cubic inches and compression. The 272 2 barrels came with an advertised 8.8CR. This coupled with the weight of your car and a high rear gear ratio will make the the car sluggish especially with street driving.

I’m currently building another 273. This motor is destined for my 66 Valiant. I’m keeping the flat top pistons and with .028 head gasket and a little off the deck Im looking at around 9.2-9.5CR. On the heads I’m running 920 castings. As with my other 273s I avoid hardened seats by running 1.88 stainless valves cut down to 1.84. With the .030 over bore there won’t be shrouding. Been my experience that running stainless valves it keeps the combustion chamber cooler thus really no need for hardened seats. I do run a little additive in my fuel which helps. If you plan on doing any towing and traveling at higher elevations you’ll want to run the hardened seats. A leaned out motor is killer on the valve seats.

The camshaft was ground by Oregon Cams using the solid Isky E4 profile. Really good grind that helps in the low end. Also running the stock dumb bell lifters. I had those resurfaced by Oregon Cam.

Running the 340 oil pump

Intake will be the Edelbrock LD4B and a Carter 9636. Of course a good electronic ignition.

If you can find a good set of 302 castings they’ll be a good addition to your motor. They tend to flow equal to or better than the unmodified stock 920 castings.
 
I wouldn't use the D dart as a recipe to follow, there's more streetable ways to make 275-300 plus hp. Mainly head flow, I would go with 360 or magnum heads, I wouldn't use the factory intake aftermarket will make better power.
Has anyone seen Magnum heads at work on a 273? I've looked but not seen a running example anywhere.... I'm about to do it just because its free and I don't care if grenade it or not....
 
Has anyone seen Magnum heads at work on a 273? I've looked but not seen a running example anywhere.... I'm about to do it just because its free and I don't care if grenade it or not....
No reason why you can't. I had all the parts for the swap at one time but I didn't go through with the build.
 
Kanter Auto Parts also offers nice 273 pistons. The skirts are coated. A friend used them a few years ago and claimed they had a little bit bigger domes than the Egge's The part number is 12631J PST 2222-***. They were beautiful pistons. You have to go to engine parts on their index to find them.
 
Has anyone seen Magnum heads at work on a 273? I've looked but not seen a running example anywhere.... I'm about to do it just because its free and I don't care if grenade it or not....


You might need to notch the block.
 
Yah everything I read if you used 340 or 360 heads that a 273 would have to be notched because the valves are too big.


I think 66fs runs 1.88 without notches but with a low lift cam and offset from dowel pins.
 
With the small engine, and the full-frame Plymouth, to get moving briskly, you are gonna need one, two, or both things, namely; a higher stall and torque multiplication.
As for the 904, First gear is just 2.45, and Second is way out there at 1.45, thus the 1-2 split is 1.45/2.45= .592; ......... so the rpm drop at he shift is fairly severe.
With street gears, it is hardly likely that the tires will spin and if they do, it won't be for long; therefore, as already said, acceleration will be sluggish. To help with that, you will need a higher stall TC to find some power .
You might think the 4bbl will help. But think about it. At a stall rpm of 2000 (typical) the primaries are still keeping up, so even if the secondaries begin to open, the engine will not make any more power until the primaries are maxed out .......... which may not happen until around 2800/3000. Now think about this .... 2800 with say 3.23s is around 26mph with 27" tires. And when the 4bbl opens, it does Not immediately add power; that takes rpm. And furthermore it starts out by adding just 1 hp over what the primaries make by themselves, at whatever rpm they max out.
With a small cam, the engine may not make peak power until 4800/5000. In First gear, with no tirespin,that will be ~45mph (still with 3.23s), and at ~76mph in Second.
The point is this; with a small engine, you HAVE to consider your gearing, if you want at least a modest amount of performance.
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If I was doing what you are doing, I would seriously consider an A518, with ratios of 2.45-1.45-1.00-.69od and much more rear gear ....... like 4.30s. This will get you 33% more starter gear, and bring all your shifts down to a lower roadspeed, yet 65=2400 in loc-up, versus 65= about 2700 with the 3.23s and no lock-up @3% slip. With 4.30s, 5000 =34/58/84 in the first three gears; much better. The starter gear is 4.30 x 2.45=10.54 by the math, but the TC may, at zero mph, increase this to around 18/1, until the car starts to move. So in this case, you may not need any extra stall. Altho, with a loc-up, I would bump the stall up anyway, to say 2800/2600..
But in all honesty, if your 273 is wearing a non-273 top end, and has been bored; then the only thing about it that can be said to belong exclusively to a 273, is the block and crank............... so; As for me, I would just swap in a bigger 4bbl engine, leave it stockish, and still install the A518. I mean a 100% stock 8/1 318 with just a 4bbl and a free-flowing exhaust, might be in the neighborhood of 210hp; but with the 4.30s, it will seem way more powerful. Say about 30% more powerful than with 3.23s. lessee. 1.3 x 210=273hp is what that would feel like.
Jus saying. And that doesn't even consider the additional bottom-end torque ...........
 
You have to notch the bores if you use 2.02 valves, but you don't have to on 1.88 valves. I don't know if you need to notch the bores for 1.92 valves in Magnum heads though. I had @replicaracer43 put 1.88 intake valves in my 302 heads going on my 273. I've had the heads bolted to the block with checker springs and the 1.88 valves clear plenty.
 
IDK
Just cuz the 1.88/1.92s don't physically rub, does that mean that they are not preventing the valve from passing fuel-charge at some point or another during the opening event?
How much lift will it take to get the cone to form? IDK.
How little duration is required for that lift? IDK
What if the big valves lose flow with that wall right there? IDK. Without a before and after, how could you ever tell?

Ima thinking that a turbo'd 273 is looking pretty attractive right about now.... maybe even a two-stage. There you go; run any gears/any transmission/almost any small cam/ even open-chamber heads....... IDK

But Ima liking the Poly idea.
 
Hi,
im building a 1969 273 with a 904 automatic trans for my 2 door 1949 Plymouth.
its a stock 2 barrel carb i believe 180-190 horsepower. Me and my uncle want to build it to the super commando specs ranking in at 275 horsepower but trying to push it up to 300 horsepower. I acquired a '65 Commando intake #2465726View attachment 1715959407 View attachment 1715959407 , Im not sure if that will fit on a '69 block. I know i could use the Edelbrock LD4B intake but would like to see if i can use the '65 commando intake. Also have a '64 8 3/4 rear end for the Plymouth, should bolt right in, its an inch bigger than original rear end. Just wanted to see anyone else's input on this build and get any other opinions and options for it. thanks! ...

A "69" 273 is a good start. The pistons should be .03 higher in the block than the 64-67 2 barrel pistons to make up for the open chambered heads. It is near a zero deck engine. It also should have 675 heads and a cast crank. No problem at all with the cast crank. Sell the intake to some one who has a 64 or 65 273. You can use any intake made for a 66 up 273 or 67 up 318, 340 or 360. That TQ intake would work in the picture. If you need to get new pistons, keep the open chambered heads to bring the compression down to use pump gas. Use Stainless Steel 1.50 exhaust valves. You should pull the valve covers and check what head castings you have and if you have hydraulic rocker arms.
 
I think 66fs runs 1.88 without notches but with a low lift cam and offset from dowel pins.

I ran 1.88 intake valve 72 "J" heads from a 340 on my + .040 273, no problem with shrouding, but I may have relieved the chambers around the intake valve. From the early 273 head racers, 1.84 intake was optimum. I think the shrouding is more head related. I doubt the bore is much of a problem as the "J" heads on the 273 ran very well with a stock 340 cam and valve springs. I never mocked everything up to compare 1.92 intake valves or Magnum heads but I'm thinking they would be a little close for comfort. "920" 273 heads flow better than "302" heads in stock form.
 
Speaking from experience, I personally would go with a 360 Magnum crate engine. It's all done and ready to bolt in. I've got a 380HP Mopar Performance one in my one D/Dart and it is quick. It's barely streetable for my liking with the 4.10 gears The race engine in the other D/Dart is ok but I wouldn't drive it on the street. It's got 5.30 gears in it.
 
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