Building a 383 help

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69'Barracuda

69'Barracuda

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Location
Fort Riley Kansas
Hey all, I just bought a date correct stock 383 bored .030 to put in my 69 barracuda (which is what it originally had). I've never really built an engine before nor know what to look for, but my dad and I are in a competition on who would win, his 70 Chevelle 454 or my barracuda. Both are 4 speeds and mine has 4:10 gears, I forget what his are but they are slower than mine. I'm trying to build this 383 to have a lot of horsepower and focus on lower end torque for acceleration. I'm looking for what parts I should get, cam, pistons, heads, etc. Thanks for all the tips and help.
 
What's your budget, and what sort of machine shops do you have in the area? S/F....Ken M
 
Is stroking the engine OK?
Does it have to be an actual 383 engine size?
What kind of power is dad making?
How fast do YOU want to go?
 
When it is time for ignition I prob have a date coded distributor and can curve it for you.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Is stroking the engine OK?
Does it have to be an actual 383 engine size?
What kind of power is dad making?
How fast do YOU want to go?
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I'd like to not touch the block itself, so if for whatever reason I want to go back to original I can, especially since it took me forever to find a date correct A body 383. Past that I don't really have any restrictions. His chevelle makes about 550-600 horsepower, not sure torque, I could find out if you wanted. And ultimately I'd like to go as fast as I can, but, I'd rather focus on the 0-60 time over the high end speed if that makes sense. Thanks.
 
If it's original matching engine, I'd get a 400 to build and preserve the original 383. 50 year old stuff breaks and you can't replace it, the 383's have the weakest of the big block main webs; the 400's the strongest. A 400 core should be in the $250 range.

A 451/470 stroker engine with 440 source heads could be well over 500HP and look like a stock motor. But you're looking north of $5K. S/F....Ken M
 
EchoSixMike said:
If it's original matching engine, I'd get a 400 to build and preserve the original 383. 50 year old stuff breaks and you can't replace it, the 383's have the weakest of the big block main webs; the 400's the strongest. A 400 core should be in the $250 range.

A 451/470 stroker engine with 440 source heads could be well over 500HP and look like a stock motor. But you're looking north of $5K. S/F....Ken M
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It's not the numbers matching engine, just a date correct one, and since I just bought this I'm going to work with what I bought I think.
 
Having "...a lot of horsepower..." and "...low end torque for acceleration..." out of a 383 is gonna be a pretty tall order to beat a 454 with 550+ hp unless his is a dog or has zero traction...and it won't be cheap if you build it right. You can make a 383 put down enough power to walk away from a run of the mill BB Chevelle, but it's going to involve good heads, proper blueprinting, and very wise parts choice-if you want it to be powerful and reliable, and you'll have to be able to put it to the ground effectively, which is going to demand you divert some funds to chassis and suspension setup.

You never really mentioned what all's in the Chevelle for times or setup either...
 
Replace the 4 speed with a 727, build the 383 with a powerband from 2500- 6800. walk away from your Dads 454 as it's spinning, he won't catch you if you have a good zero deck short block, good flowing head, 550 lift cam and single plane intake and 3800 stall convertor.
 
All things being as equal as the can be between the two cars, I find it a tall order to have an engine down 71 cubes and most of it in stroke no less to be an EZ victor without creating something undesirable and contrary to what the OP wants to build.

I like the idea of finding another block to build and stroke.
 
Well I guess, just go the easy route and build a 550 cube stroker with 3.23 gear and AC.
Is the chassis up to snuff, chassis 1st drivetrain 2nd. for what it's worth, the fastback and the 440/6 63 sport fury have never been beat by a 4spd.
 
You're making assumptions, and the OP isn't providing all relevant info...a recipe for disappointment.

The OP is asking to build a 383 to put in a Barracuda with:

High enough power to walk away from a 454 with a supposed 550hp (unverified) in a chassis about 400lbs heavier, with unknown chassis and suspension config, and unknown driver capability.

Low end torque for good acceleration--which is a flawed statement when coupled with a rather ambitious horsepower goal. Low end torque is good for low speed acceleration when saddled with poor gearing or drivetrain choices, otherwise, you build the rest of the powertrain to compliment and properly utilize the power plant.

We all kinda failed on the "good heads" aspect, but suggesting a 550 lift cam is a rather nebulous suggestion, as is a 3800 stall converter...

fishmens67 said:
Well I guess, just go the easy route and build a 550 cube stroker with 3.23 gear and AC.
Is the chassis up to snuff, chassis 1st drivetrain 2nd. for what it's worth, the fastback and the 440/6 63 sport fury have never been beat by a 4spd.
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Now you're just adding confusion and next to nothing constructive to the mix. Build a 550 stroker...and increase the cost even more. New block, new guts, still gotta have decent flowing heads.

I do, however agree, as in my first reply, that chassis and suspension MUST be configured correctly to put any power to the ground. Let's assume for the moment he did all the requisite work to achieve 500+ hp out of a 383 (which in an of itself won't be cheap); I've said it before on this forum, and I'll replay it: Having power ain't worth a damn if you can't put it to the ground.

And advertising (without quantification or specificity) that your cars have never been beat by a 4 speed completely neglects the fact that there's a big world out there beyond your own experiences.

OP: If you legitimately want to beat your Dad's 454/4 speed GM A body, throw us a bone...

what does his car run in the 1/4, or are you even racing on a track?
What kind of suspension does it have?
What MPH are you racing to if not on a track?
What RPM is he shifting at?

Your car:
What kind of horsepower do you really think will be your goal?
More concise and better question, what time in the 1/4 do you need to achieve?
What top speed do you need to achieve?
How much can you spend?

You really should go through the big block and racing forums on this site for a couple of weeks and read...a lot; you can glean a ton of good info on what works and what you can achieve based on your level of capability, what modifications need to be done to accomplish a solid goal, and what your bank account allows. Asking questions is very welcome, but, if you state a goal and what you're working with, the answers given will be much more helpful and useful.
 
The Texan Stang is right.

Here's my worthless two cents...

.750 solid roller

LMAO!!!!!
 
I'm so sorry. lol oh and I did mention a GOOD flowing head and don't forget the intake. carry on and spend his money wisely.
you guys are on the right track.
 
fishmens67 said:
I'm so sorry. lol oh and I did mention a GOOD flowing head and don't forget the intake. carry on and spend his money wisely.
you guys are on the right track.
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no one here is making the man spending his money, fish--I, for one, just don't want the OP to randomly select a bunch of parts that have no chance of working together or, maybe build a decent engine and not be able to put the power down...I figured you'd agree, no?
 
txstang84 said:
no one here is making the man spending his money, fish--I, for one, just don't want the OP to randomly select a bunch of parts that have no chance of working together or, maybe build a decent engine and not be able to put the power down...I figured you'd agree, no?
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I totally agree. and more cubes is the way to go. I really need to get rid of my David vs Goliath way of thinking.
 
Hey all, sorry I had a family emergency and had to return to Ohio, thus the no return messages. I appreciate what everyone has been saying so far, since its causing so much confusion let me kinda change the topic slightly. Instead of beating my dads chevelle, just let me have your words of wisdom and parts about having a nicely running 383 that I could drive everyday and not hate, with a focus on acceleration over high end speed. Something that rteally gets up and goes when I step on the pedal, but not something that is going to destroy the engine, so I can keep the engine as long as I'd like and not blow it up. I saw where a few of you wrote the engine needs to be built around putting the power to the ground, I currently have a 4 speed and an 8 3/4ths 4;10 gear ratio rear end if that would help building the engine around that at all. This is going to be a when I have a spare couple hundred bucks buy some pistons or a cam, etc. So no set budget but obviously I'd like to see the price per performance gain. Thanks again for all the help.
 
Top end builds your power like heads, cam, intake, carb etc... and even bore size.

Bottom end stroke rod ratio and displacement decides where the power band is.

If you build a 383 with the same stroke as a 440 or 400 you'll only be 20 cid or so less not the biggest deal.

If building the 383 go with 3.75 stroke minimum (426-438 cid) don't see why people build 383 with stock stroke.

Go with trick flow heads and a decent hydraulic roller cam and your 90% of the way there.
 
You already have 4.10 gears. A HP 383 will make plenty of power on the street. Do you have any other parts? I'd get a set of 73 up heads, clean up the bowls under the valves. Get some oversized stainless valves from Mancini Racing. Bore and hone it with the mains torqued, and torque plates installed with the head gasket you are going to run. Use good rings, a true roller timing chain and call Jim at Racer Brown and get a cam and valve springs for the street. Your biggest problem will be hooking up with a HP 383. No special parts required. I drove a 68 383 fastback for years as a daily driver, original exhaust manifolds and all.
 
@273 said above;
"Bottom end stroke rod ratio and displacement decides where the power band is."

Incorrect, cam duration and the ability to control the valves, AKA, valve springs and a few other factors do.

I do think you were meaning to say/imply that a shorter stroke likes to rev higher than a longer stroke engine which tends to make its power quicker in the rpm scale?

Like a 340 vs 360 or 383 vs 440 deal?
 
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