I've seen the posts about building an IVR using a linear 7805 regulator and I know you can buy them for $60 USD specifically for our cars. I was looking for the components then found that you can buy assembled generic units for $20 or so. Of course that made me wonder why nobody was doing that and perhaps there was a good reason. I was looking at the rated wattage of these units and many are in the 15 - 25W range. What is required? The 7805 is rated for 1.5 amps x 12 volts which is 18 W (I think?). I have no idea what the current draw is on a rallye cluster although I read that it has a 3 or 4.5 amp fuse. Is a 15W unit adequate or does it matter as long as it has a heat sink?
Building or buying an IVR / step down voltage buck converter for the instruments
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Just contact @67fish383S on here. He makes and sells those on here and has already done the legwork for you. You can look up his posts on here about it.
Yes I have his instructions. I’m not sure if he is still doing them or if shipping up north makes sense.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
If you're looking at $60 to get the parts to build a linear regulator type limiter, just spring for the ready made solid state one from RTE. Better response than linear units. Why build when you can get a better, proven unit ready to go for the same money?
RTE limiter - rte
The issue with cheap units (although they do work) is the response time- they take a while to warm up and begin to register properly.
RTE limiter - rte
The issue with cheap units (although they do work) is the response time- they take a while to warm up and begin to register properly.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
i guess. but time is money also.. 60 bucks and 5 minutes to plug it in and done..
True but I'm cheap
and its $60 USD so $100 Cdn. I was just curious about these other ready built regulators. I might end up buying the RTE in the end. I feel like I have a few more bucks in my pocket today because the painter just went over my car and said my body work was good to go to the spray booth without much more work.
All I can tell you is search/ google/ etc. There used to be PLENTY of DIY websites on those IVR projects. I could do so, but decided to go with RTE
They are nothing like boost/ buck, however. They are a simple 3 pin linear regulator from the nominal 14V to about 5V
Also if you get into problems with fuel gauge calibration, there's a product called "meter match" as well as a chinese knock off on ebay. The link I had is no longer valid, you will have to look for it.
They are nothing like boost/ buck, however. They are a simple 3 pin linear regulator from the nominal 14V to about 5V
Also if you get into problems with fuel gauge calibration, there's a product called "meter match" as well as a chinese knock off on ebay. The link I had is no longer valid, you will have to look for it.
jimjimjimmy
lobsterman
I put an RTE in 2010 everything still works great , very happy with it . If i remember right it took a month or more to recieve it so keep that in mind if you need it quick .
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
I bought one from @67fish383S as a spare. Quality piece and he did it for cost.
He's a smart cookie!
Chknout threads he has started, very knowledgable!
He's a smart cookie!
Chknout threads he has started, very knowledgable!
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
If you're in a crunch I can sell/send you one that he made me, as long as he will make me another one?
No worries. I'll just make one using his instructions or buy a ready made one. The only thing that threw me for a loop is that the 7805 regulator provides 1.5 amps but that must be enough? The 5V regulators seem to be a common item and they are about $20 on Amazon. I might even stop at the electronics store today and see what they have. Its a cool store....not sure how long it will be around.
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Yeah altho i was never an electronics geek, I always enjoyed the old Radio Shack stores....now The Source basically a friggin cell phone store... 
Good luck
Good luck
For my time and money, being as I can't run down to Radio Shack and just grab the stuff I need anymore, it's easier for me to buy the plug-and-play. I have built them myself before, here is my '68 Dart that I converted to voltmeter at the same time:
I usually order enough to build five when I feel the need to do one, then I can't find the stuff when it's time to build the next one so...
I usually order enough to build five when I feel the need to do one, then I can't find the stuff when it's time to build the next one so...
You converted ammeter to voltmeter? It’s a slippery slope
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
I didn't convert the gauge itself, but disconnected it and left the amp gauge in place. Added Autometer triple gauges under dash(oil psi, coolant temp and voltmeter). I like the looks of oem gauges, but didn't trust the remaining life and accuracy of those gauges.
You converted ammeter to voltmeter? It’s a slippery slope
@4spdragtop I don't guess I have any pictures of it stripped down, but yes. I usually use a Bosch voltmeter. They make one that swings from the bottom and one that swings from the top depending on what cluster you're working on. You take the ammeter guts out of the cluster, split the bosch gauge apart, and put it's guts in the cluster. You usually have to file the mounting holes to an oval as they don't align 100%. Some clusters the needle matches pretty good, on the dart I cut the factory needle off the ammeter and used a drop or two of superglue to attach it to the Bosch movement. It's not too hard to do really. If you can build a 5v regulator from scratch you can do it!
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Nice work. I'm good with what we have done with our rally gauges. Like you I prefer the oem looks. The Autometer triple gauges fit the look of the car and are more accurate.
I also did the Mad ammeter bypass, so it made sense.
I also did the Mad ammeter bypass, so it made sense.
Yes, I did an entire series of electrial mods on that Dart. The charging system was shot, bulkhead connector was toast, ammeter melted, just a mess. I did a shunt for the alternator, solid state voltage regulator for the charging system, bypassed the bulkhead connector for the main charge wires, and fitted everything with appropriate fusible links. That whole car just became reliable after that...
Yeah I should do the ammeter bypass which I have done before. The engine harness is new but the dash harness is not but there is always a chance of something going wrong.
jimjimjimmy
lobsterman
Wow i just looked i payed 35 bucks plus 12 bucks shipping . A lie to me is a lie from me but i was told by a radio shack owner that all the small electronic parts we used to be able to buy are now sent , sold to Russia , North Korea and Ukrine .
I’d be surprised if you could find a made in USA source…likely all Asian made. Maybe there is some military grade parts…who knows.
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