I've done that more than once in 40+ years of running a saw... maybe even more than 1/2 a dozen times...
Buns of Stihl
- Thread starter Big Dad
- Start date
I bought a nice Husqvarrna 385 that wouldn't start because the recoil was busted (yeah right) Buddy said, don't worry, my friend is a mechanic and said it runs great......Same guy that installed the chain backwards. Ended up being a sheared flywheel key........Good thing I got it cheap....Best saw I ever owned!
I'm sure many here have done it. I usually catch it when going to file before first start.. LOL Wife and I have done more than our fair share of wood the past 40 years... We burn about 5 bush cords a year between here and the lake.LOL..........Good thing you are a pilot and not a lumberjack
Wow, that's a lot of wood. I'm usually 6 or 7 face cords a year. Your doing well. It's already killing me LOL!
Killing us as well at 59 and 60 and we're down to a dry bush cord... so next years buggered up for us... but we've burnt 6 this year in the house so far with heating oil at $2.17/liter. I need to get in the forest and start cutting dead falls and sick trees so it can at least start drying out and then split in the Spring. For a time gap next Winter I'll steal some of the 2 bush cords we cut and split next door at #1 Son's 2.5 year ago.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Cool, I never knew this
We are convenience burners so we don't go through a lot of wood. Our house is a small bungalow at 1200 feet so it's easy to heat. We have propane forced air for the house and one for the shop. LOL.....The shop costs more to heat than the house.
Our neighbour is a retired forestry guy who has 600 acres or so of Maple and Beech that he owns. He keeps it well maintained an pulls hardwood logs (blowdowns etc) to a landing in the winter where a few of us can get what we want for $50 a cord. I set up my splitter and buck and split right here and toss it in the truck. If I was paying retail for the wood, I probably wouldn't do it.
A bush cord of wood costs me about 10 bucks in gas and a full day of work for us vs $450/cord that's the going rate right now for hardwood.
Ahoey
Well-Known Member
I’m a little confused about the face and bush cord. Around here a cord of wood measures 4’X 4’ X 8’ amount of wood you get depends on the straightness and diameter of trees. I buy my wood by weight. A slightly over loaded full tandem hauls 6 cord green poplar for around $800. A bargain compared to hydro or oil if you don’t count your labour.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
When we noticed the bar not getting oil we put gas in the oil tank until it cleared.
The wood dust and bar oil plugs up the oil port, and the gas breaks it up.
Otherwise you have to take the bar off and blow out the oiler port in the engine case.
The wood dust and bar oil plugs up the oil port, and the gas breaks it up.
Otherwise you have to take the bar off and blow out the oiler port in the engine case.
No confusion. A "cord" of wood, or a bush cord is indeed 4' x 4' x 8'. That's three x 16" face cords to a bush cord.
Cut, split and dry hardwood (oak/maple/beech/ash) is $450 Cdn a cord and has been there or about for a decade. Now to get a truck load of wet wood in logs is a different story and of course a lot cheaper. Like I said a bush cord costs me about 10 bucks and a **** load of work and my helper isn't getting any younger but it keeps her in shape! LOL
Ahoey
Well-Known Member
You can get a cord of wood for $10 bucks here as well but it’s a permit from the Manitoba gov. for standing wood in a forest reserve. A little to much work and equipment. But green poplar in 8’ delivered on yard for $140 a cord is cheap and 3/4 of the battle. Just need the space to work and store it.
Ahoey
Well-Known Member
Thanks never heard the term face cord before
A face is exactly that, the "face" row from a full bush cord. So 4' x 8' x cut width. Many get screwed on cheaply advertised face cords to find out they are 12" lengths and not 16".
As for wood cost, I have 120 acres of mature Red Oak/Maple/Ash/Beech/Birch and almost hardwood Poplar. No way I can get lazy enough to buy wood, but I'm getting there as I age. I'm having the bush harvested this year for veneer and sawlog. Last time I had it done was about about 18 years ago that netted me almost 40 grand for the logs and the tops got turned into 18 bush cords of firewood with me cutting and Wife and kids splitting. The guy doing it this round has a processor, so I'll let him do all the tops into firewood before he leaves and save our bodies for stacking.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
@Kern Dog
you mentioned flipping the bar to even the wear on it
i had my chain saw out yesterday, and it was running great at first but she got pretty dull after a while
i had come across this video and they mentioned a few reasons why you spin the bar, and a few issues that may occur if you dont
(holy cow, did i have a bur on my bar...and a slight twist)
anyway, i thought this was a good video on it
you mentioned flipping the bar to even the wear on it
i had my chain saw out yesterday, and it was running great at first but she got pretty dull after a while
i had come across this video and they mentioned a few reasons why you spin the bar, and a few issues that may occur if you dont
(holy cow, did i have a bur on my bar...and a slight twist)
anyway, i thought this was a good video on it
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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41 posts and you perverts are still talking about the saw?
WTH happened to you guys?
lol
WTH happened to you guys?
lol
I asked a guy at the local mower shop about flipping the bar. It was his advice to flip it every time the chain is changed.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
To be fair, that was meLOL......This thread has been dead since Feb. 23rd. You are the one resurrecting it
There used to be a post in here about flipping bars, and I wanted to keep that conversation going
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
I'm sure a small engine outfit like that would know
I've had chainsaws for a few decades now, but just for clean up and bonfire wood...I never knew about it
(I bought this saw almost 3 years ago, at the recommendations of FABO)
But when I saw that section about the bur on the bar it just clicked
I've spend my whole working life in sheetmetal...I know burs
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
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Well ok;
as having been a bit of a fellar one time, cutting 10 to 13 cords every fall, AND, having been involved in the business of sharpening chains and dressing bars, for over 25years...... here it comes.
As you are felling, it is almost inevitable that your bar will wear one side of the track at a faster rate, because you tend to cut EITHER left-handed or right-handed. When this happens,and it will, the bar tends to skew the cut-line in one direction or the other. and when this happens, your saw tends to jam up in the kerf. So there you are, stuck.
If the top-side track is straight, which it tends to get that way, running at no load, then you just get the saw free and flip the bar, and then yur good for a few more hours.
But, when you go home and sharpen all your chains, I find it prudent to dress the tracks on my bars as well.
Eventually, the tracks will become too short and the chain will no longer run on them, but rather rub in the bottom of the groove, which spells retirement time.
A good working automatic chain-oiler will slow wear to a minimum........ if you keep the bar out of the dirt and water, which includes wet-wood..
You gotta check the auto-oiler every time you gas up, and every time you adjust or flip the bar. Just point the bar down and rev it up. As the chain runs over the tip, it will throw oil on the ground and there is your proof.
After the cutters are sharpened, the height of the rakers needs to be addressed. Beginners need to run tall rakers for personal protection. The saw cuts less deep and more slowly. As you gain experience, and physical strength, you can shorten the rakers and saw like a pro.
Practice hitting the chain-brake often, so that it will become instinctive. I use it EVERY time I set the saw down, and whenever a situation comes up, that it seems prudent to not have a slaughter-weapon running. I can't tell you how often I have stepped on the running saw but with the chain-brake on; it happens! In many many years of sawing, I never yet wore a brake out, lol!
I always keep metal wedges, an axe, a bush-saw, and a 2.5pound sledge in the truck, cuz leaving the saw in the bush is NOT an option for me. I could be miles from home.
as having been a bit of a fellar one time, cutting 10 to 13 cords every fall, AND, having been involved in the business of sharpening chains and dressing bars, for over 25years...... here it comes.
As you are felling, it is almost inevitable that your bar will wear one side of the track at a faster rate, because you tend to cut EITHER left-handed or right-handed. When this happens,and it will, the bar tends to skew the cut-line in one direction or the other. and when this happens, your saw tends to jam up in the kerf. So there you are, stuck.
If the top-side track is straight, which it tends to get that way, running at no load, then you just get the saw free and flip the bar, and then yur good for a few more hours.
But, when you go home and sharpen all your chains, I find it prudent to dress the tracks on my bars as well.
Eventually, the tracks will become too short and the chain will no longer run on them, but rather rub in the bottom of the groove, which spells retirement time.
A good working automatic chain-oiler will slow wear to a minimum........ if you keep the bar out of the dirt and water, which includes wet-wood..
You gotta check the auto-oiler every time you gas up, and every time you adjust or flip the bar. Just point the bar down and rev it up. As the chain runs over the tip, it will throw oil on the ground and there is your proof.
After the cutters are sharpened, the height of the rakers needs to be addressed. Beginners need to run tall rakers for personal protection. The saw cuts less deep and more slowly. As you gain experience, and physical strength, you can shorten the rakers and saw like a pro.
Practice hitting the chain-brake often, so that it will become instinctive. I use it EVERY time I set the saw down, and whenever a situation comes up, that it seems prudent to not have a slaughter-weapon running. I can't tell you how often I have stepped on the running saw but with the chain-brake on; it happens! In many many years of sawing, I never yet wore a brake out, lol!
I always keep metal wedges, an axe, a bush-saw, and a 2.5pound sledge in the truck, cuz leaving the saw in the bush is NOT an option for me. I could be miles from home.
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Vertex_Jeff
Undocumented Mopar Guy
My lower back hurts just watching them operate that big saw!
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