Soak the bearings in a tub of mineral spirits, it will soften the grease, then rinse with brake cleaner, they should be fine.
On the rotors soak in vinegar or evapor-rust.
Just buy new seals.
Buy new or use what I have
- Thread starter DentalDart
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Soak the bearings in a tub of mineral spirits, it will soften the grease, then rinse with brake cleaner, they should be fine.
On the rotors soak in vinegar or evapor-rust.
Just buy new seals.
Demonic
Well-Known Member
That's desert rust, more like a protective coating here
Some folks pay a lot for patina like that
Its a flash rust, not deep pitted.
I'd hit it lightly with the da or orbital 220 ish grit to knock off the bulk of the oxide.
I've also given them a light abrasive blast at lower pressure.
Some folks pay a lot for patina like that
Its a flash rust, not deep pitted.
I'd hit it lightly with the da or orbital 220 ish grit to knock off the bulk of the oxide.
I've also given them a light abrasive blast at lower pressure.
I'd have been drivin down the road already. Three times. LOL
Rotors will be ok, just remove the surface rust on the flat areas where the pads contact. Your biggest concern should be those bearings...
Wipe and clean old grease from inside rotors and spindles.
Clean bearings with Brake Clean spray until there is no old grease on them, dry them good and inspect them for pitting or any marks on the rollers... Re-Pack each bearing, be sure to get the grease in between each roller by pushing fresh bearing grease from bottom to top, Using the palm of your hand or a bearing packer. Trying not to spin the bearing while packing. Wipe your greasy hands on the clean spindle, just a film is good. Same goes for the bearing races inside the rotor.
There's plenty of reassembly tips if you search this site, no need to go over that, again.
Good Luck!
Wipe and clean old grease from inside rotors and spindles.
Clean bearings with Brake Clean spray until there is no old grease on them, dry them good and inspect them for pitting or any marks on the rollers... Re-Pack each bearing, be sure to get the grease in between each roller by pushing fresh bearing grease from bottom to top, Using the palm of your hand or a bearing packer. Trying not to spin the bearing while packing. Wipe your greasy hands on the clean spindle, just a film is good. Same goes for the bearing races inside the rotor.
There's plenty of reassembly tips if you search this site, no need to go over that, again.
Good Luck!
Ya ain’t lyin! I’d also be on to the next issue. This should have been done and driving by now. The bearing cleaning advice was good. I’ve only used brake cleaner to get my bearings cleaned up. Repack them in grease Immediately and install! Boom baby! Next!
This is it even a days work.
If you can check the discs for being out of round or flat, use them as is and start driving. The worst care is you take them off for new parts. Not even a half days work.
Hey Doc,
I have been not using the correct terms for the bearings
Below image is correct
The cup is pressed into the hub, the cone is the part that comes out easily.
We all can give you all the advice in the world but the FSM ( downloadable at mymopar.com) will have the best info.
Unless the rotor has been turned too much ( measure with a proper caliper) or is warped (and you will not know that till you can rotate it or use it) no need to replace it
Typically new rotors do not come with bearings, some might have the bearing cups installed. Some rotors do not come attached to the hub.
The roller bearings in the cone should look uniform, the rollers should all look about the same, same color, same texture (smooth) etc. The cup in the hub should also look uniform and similar to the roller bearings in the cone.
Unless the bearings are blued, scratched, chewed up etc just buy the seals, clean the old grease out with cleaner of choice even soap and water will work just blow dry or alcohol them to remove the water and then repack them with proper grease. do the same to the inside of the hub, add a little grease inside there as well,
put the race back in and the rear seal and clean the spindle add a little grease to it, and slide the hub/ disk on. put the outer bearing ( greased up as well) then the washer, nut and keeper and tighten as per the FSM (basically snug -not tight- with wrench then loosen till slight rocking movement can be felt) cotter pin, put on the grease cap and one side done.
This video is not too bad (but I would clean bearing and all surfaces of all grease first)
This video at about 5:00 shows packing with tool (but I would clean bearing and all surfaces of all grease first)
Shows tightening and adjusting
This is from 67 FSM
I have been not using the correct terms for the bearings
Below image is correct
The cup is pressed into the hub, the cone is the part that comes out easily.
We all can give you all the advice in the world but the FSM ( downloadable at mymopar.com) will have the best info.
Unless the rotor has been turned too much ( measure with a proper caliper) or is warped (and you will not know that till you can rotate it or use it) no need to replace it
Typically new rotors do not come with bearings, some might have the bearing cups installed. Some rotors do not come attached to the hub.
Installing the grease seal on the front hub is 1000% earier then a 8 3/4 inner seal and the seal is about a buck or so
The roller bearings in the cone should look uniform, the rollers should all look about the same, same color, same texture (smooth) etc. The cup in the hub should also look uniform and similar to the roller bearings in the cone.
Unless the bearings are blued, scratched, chewed up etc just buy the seals, clean the old grease out with cleaner of choice even soap and water will work just blow dry or alcohol them to remove the water and then repack them with proper grease. do the same to the inside of the hub, add a little grease inside there as well,
put the race back in and the rear seal and clean the spindle add a little grease to it, and slide the hub/ disk on. put the outer bearing ( greased up as well) then the washer, nut and keeper and tighten as per the FSM (basically snug -not tight- with wrench then loosen till slight rocking movement can be felt) cotter pin, put on the grease cap and one side done.
This video is not too bad (but I would clean bearing and all surfaces of all grease first)
This video at about 5:00 shows packing with tool (but I would clean bearing and all surfaces of all grease first)
Shows tightening and adjusting
This is from 67 FSM
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Soon my friend!
My old body doesn't get things done in 1/2 day heck even a full day is pushing it.
I mean its 1030 right now and I'm still in my pj's holding my 3 month old baby so this rate I'll be driving by...next christmas
Holding 3 month old way more rewarding
Saviour the time, in a blink they will be moving out and starting their own lives and your heart will ach for the time when they were young. Damn now I need another box of tissues, ( time of the year gets me all sentimental)
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
O'reilly's charges $15
Yea new bearings are like 5 -12 bucks at napa.
furyus2
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing it's $15 to turn rotors at oreillys. Also don't buy the Harbor freight seal driver. It's so bad, I'm returning it. The discs are made of plastic, and the threads in the handle are so loose, I'm surprised the bolt would tighten.
Shiiiiiiiiiish! Your old body is making babies in your ‘50’s!
Dang you got balls!
Beautiful baby you have there! Good job!
I feel like I'm in my 50s at times.
Spent some time making cupcakes and hanging with the grinch. Now finishing the broncos game then going to clean the bearings and hook up the rear parking brake.
Spent some time making cupcakes and hanging with the grinch. Now finishing the broncos game then going to clean the bearings and hook up the rear parking brake.
Got some grease and some more brake cleaner, going to clean the bearings, sand the rotors lightly and call it a day.
Also got some pain in the *** bushings out with this cool contraption.
Thanks for all the advice! As always this place is great and super helpful to the young learning mopar fans. The purple car will soon live again, the kids and I miss slurpee fridays when I pick them up from school in it.
Also got some pain in the *** bushings out with this cool contraption.
Thanks for all the advice! As always this place is great and super helpful to the young learning mopar fans. The purple car will soon live again, the kids and I miss slurpee fridays when I pick them up from school in it.
Cleaner. This was the easy stuff st least I didnt break any of these cant say the same for the other stuffs.
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