Buying a 727, what to look for?

Transmission and Drivetrain Tech

  1. Cope

    Cope Fusing with fire

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    I'm going on sunday to pick up a 727 for my BB dart project and would like to know what I should be looking for/at?

    I'm buying it as a core but any input would be great. Do they crack in certain spots?
    Anything I should definitely be looking at?

    The Trans will be going in a 71 Dart with a 440 and B&M shifter.

    Thanks for your time and advice.
     
  2. oldmopardude

    oldmopardude Well-Known Member

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    Look at part number and post it, not all are created equal. The 440 transmission is a stronger unit than say a 383 2 bbl transmission.
     
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    • Kern Dog

      Kern Dog Well-Known Member

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      Look at the fluid. Brown and burnt are obviously bad. Pink and milky means water has gotten inside.
       
    • oldmopardude

      oldmopardude Well-Known Member

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      the number will start most likely PKXXXXX, but Kern dog is also right, brown is bad.
       
    • 440DART1970

      440DART1970 1970 Dart 446ci Swinger

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      #1. See is its a virgin. Look to see if it is ever been apart.
      #2 check the transmission fluid... it should be rosy red and smell fresh not burnt.
      #3 check the converter if it came with it for burnt smell..
      Other the that. Most trans shops cost $375+ to go thru them and especially to change the sprag to a bolt in.
       
    • Cope

      Cope Fusing with fire

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      Supposedly it's been rebuilt but for the price I'm just gonna call it a core.
      I'll see if I can get the number off it but most likely I won't know until I pick it up.
       
    • Blind Squirrel

      Blind Squirrel Well-Known Member

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      Well.............. Make sure your looking for one that fits a big block!
       
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      • Cope

        Cope Fusing with fire

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        What's the best way to tell the difference?
         
      • oldmopardude

        oldmopardude Well-Known Member

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        if you are unfamiliar, the easy way is to measure the distance between the top two bolts holding the trans to the block. small and big block are not the same distance. however, The part number is the safe way. When you get there call somebody that has a parts book. I have a small book with me at all times. Just call me with the number and I will tell you what it belongs to.
         
      • Cope

        Cope Fusing with fire

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        Thank you, that's a very nice offer and I'd love to take u up on it. Would you PM me your number? Most likely It will happen on sunday mid afternoon if that's ok?

        I will call the guy and see about getting the number. Where is the number located?
        The guy wants 225.00, it seems like a good price to me and it's not to far away.

        Thanks again.
         
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        • fishy68

          fishy68 Tyr Fryr's Inc. FABO Gold Member

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          The easiest way to tell a BB from a SB trans is the BB trans only has four small 1/4" holes at the bottom to retain the dust cover. A SB cover has three 1/4" holes and two 7/16" holes holding the cover on. Print out the list I posted below (in pdf) and make sure it's a 71 or newer trans and not a lockup model. 71 and newer models used a wider 1" front drum support bushing. 70 on back used a 1/2" wide support bushing. 71 and newer also had part throttle kickdown (if you plan on using the stock valve body it's nice). If you can find a 71-73 that's the best. In 74 they went to the load control front servo which isn't as responsive. That's not as big of a deal as the wider bushing though IMO and you can always swap the servo for a early style or billet one.

          BTW: you can tell a lockup model from a non lockup by the input shaft. I'll attach a pic of them. The top shaft in the picture is a lockup trans. See how it has the end of the shaft milled down smooth and a non lockup has splines all the way too the end.

          904 input shafts.jpg
           

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          • oldmopardude

            oldmopardude Well-Known Member

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            I'll pm my number. I work every sunday, so I take calls all day. Car calls are more fun than realtor calls. I have a 68' 383 dart, so I understand.
             
          • d55dave

            d55dave Well-Known Member

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            You want to find a 69 and up transmission. 68 and prior can be identified by a single post nss. Your car will be wired for the 69 and up 3 post nss. You cannot just change the switch as the valve body is also different. 64 and prjor have a flange on the output that the driveshaft bolts to (as do later shorty motor home and truck transmissions. You will want the long tail shaft slip yoke style.
             
            Last edited: Feb 22, 2017
          • Blind Squirrel

            Blind Squirrel Well-Known Member

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            $225 for a core would be midrange/high depending on location. They go about $150 around here. In fact there is the exact one your looking for on our CRlist right now for $200 asking. You swing over to Lodi and pick up a motor I need from down there and I'll head south with that tranny and meet you in the middle. Roadkill style.

            Chrysler 727 Big Block Automatic Mopar Part from a 1971 440
             
          • oldmopardude

            oldmopardude Well-Known Member

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            I saw that transmission ad,and the number is for an A Body 383. I would buy that one right now. That is a rare transmission.
             
          • Cope

            Cope Fusing with fire

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            Here's the number the guy gave me.

            3898865

            Dose that seem right?
            What year and engine is it off?
            Thanks again.
             
          • oldmopardude

            oldmopardude Well-Known Member

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            3681867 is the newest number I have, which is for a 1974 440 engine. So, that number is newer than that.1975,76 vintage.
             
          • Cope

            Cope Fusing with fire

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            Do you think that is a good core to work with for a high torque and high HP 440?

            Thanks again for all the time and advice.
             
          • oldmopardude

            oldmopardude Well-Known Member

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            My Transmission guy says there were many Improvements actually to the mid 70's Transmissions from the 60's. When I bought new torque convertors the Company I used actually updated the Torque Convertors for my 69' 340 using many new parts from the 90's. So it comes down to the quality of the Builder. I wouldn't pay more than $100 for the core though, since you will have to go thru it. I have seven or eight sitting here, but you are too far to ship economically.
             
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            • Cope

              Cope Fusing with fire

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              I've been lookin for one (off and on) close to me for almost a year and this is the first one I've seen. I dont mind the price, plus if I open it up and it's clean well bonus points.
              I just want the correct case for my build, everything else don't really matter.
              I just don't want to buy 2....

              Thanks again for all the help.
              I could never build this car with out you folks.
               
            • oldmopardude

              oldmopardude Well-Known Member

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              The torque convertor is everything. When you get one, grill them about all the Improvements they made to it. if they say they rebuilt it to stock specs, keep moving. I would highly recommend the Company I used in Fort Dodge, Iowa. They are a large outfit, and sell nationwide. Plus the convertors were in the 135-170 range done(I had three Transmissions rebuilt in town at the same time)Tell them the stall you want, and how tough you want it, and they will make it.
               
            • fishy68

              fishy68 Tyr Fryr's Inc. FABO Gold Member

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              If you read my post (#11) you'll see I posted a chart in pdf form. All you have to do is click on it and it'll open up with almost all of the 727 and 904 numbers up to 1986. If you would have done that you would have seen that a 3898865 is a small block transmission
               
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