Bypassing Ballast Resistor / Installing Pertronix Ignition

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robodhran

robodhran

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I installed a pertronix ignition in my 1966 Barracuda. The new coil does not need a ballast resistor anymore. Although I read about bypassing in the forum, I still don't have a clue, how to bypass the ballast resistor. That's why I made a drawing with the original wiring diagram. It shoes the wires and their destination...

Is it possible to hook all four wires together...? :)

Thanks a lot

Robert

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Some folks just install a jumper wire between the two ballast resistor terminals. They sell piggy back terminals for that. Or just gut the back of one and install a wire if you want it to look stock. Or get rid of it all together and join the wires as you said.

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I just did the install on my wagon. I joined the 4 wires together from the ballast resistor and left the original blue wire hooked up the the + terminal of the coil. The only problem that I had was the supplied rotor was hitting the distributor cap. I changed it out with the one that came with my reman distributor.
 
I hooked all 4 wires together, but I didn't like how it looked. Then I found a small box just big enough to hold the junction, painted it black, and installed it using the ballast resistor screw hole. Now it's my "mystery black box".
 
That's right! With the original wiring, the one "dark blue"-wire goes to the coil 12V+ (no changes needed). my pertronix doesn't hit the cap (I could keep the original cap). I like the idea of "the mystery black box" haha...

I checked the service manual's wiring diagrams and was surprised finding the original wiring in my car with the exact color codes...

Guess I'm going to "jump wire" the existing ballast resistor with an "invisible" cable on the back side.

This is my pertronix-installation. Easy: the black wire goes to coil negativ (-), the red one to coil positiv (+) / It's already been tested, since I started the engine outside the car...
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This is the ballast resistor from the back side. I just removed the resistor-wire and mounted a jump wire instead and plugged it into the existing terminals. Fits perfectly!


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Even more elegant than the connector in post #2, you can buy a male-male spade lug, at least I did long ago, probably in a bubble pack. But the "zero ohm" ballast mod of post 7 leaves the wires secured instead of flopping around, plus would fool a show judge.
 
is the pertronix an improvement over the stock mopar electronic distributor?
Is the mechanical advance adjustable on this conversion?
 
ir3333 said:
is the pertronix an improvement over the stock mopar electronic distributor?
Is the mechanical advance adjustable on this conversion?
Click to expand...
Yes, the Pertronix dissy has different springs and weights for lots of adjustability. If you go with the Flamethrower III it has a rev limiter and multi-spark.
 
I have a '66 Plymouth Fury and will be installing a Pertronix Ingitor II & the Flame Thrower II and was wondering if jumping the ballast resistor impacts the electronic voltage regulator? The previous owner removed the original voltage regulator and installed a "dimple-style" voltage regulator like the one attached here. Since it (dk blu-TR to dk blu (to volt reg)) currently runs through the ballast resistor along with the coil wiring, isn't it receiving reduced current and if so, shouldn't that be left attached to the ballast resistor and only bypass the wire(s) for the coil?
 
ir3333 said:
is the pertronix an improvement over the stock mopar electronic distributor?
Is the mechanical advance adjustable on this conversion?
Click to expand...
Pertronix makes several products for Mopars. The OP is installing a Pertronix Ignitor (pickup and coil driver) inside an OEM 1966 points distributor. Their original Ignitor (OP's?) still requires a ballast resistor. Sometimes such ballast is built into a new coil (apparently OP's), otherwise you need to keep the OEM ballast. The Ignitor II has "dwell control" so doesn't need (nor should have) a ballast (or ballasted-coil). Best with an aftermarket e-core coil. You can get a similar result using a GM HEI module and e-core coil (many posts) but that requires a later Mopar e-distributor to trigger and loses "factory look". The Ignitor III module is best since adds multi-spark and rev-limiter.

Post 13 talks about a Pertronix distributor, which is an option (expensive) and also loses the factory look.

Re Post 14, the Vreg gets full IGN voltage (upstream of ballast so not affected by its presence or lack). It regulates the alternator field to make IGN sensed the correct value (~14.3 VDC).
 
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csilva_31 said:
I have a '66 Plymouth Fury and will be installing a Pertronix Ingitor II & the Flame Thrower II and was wondering if jumping the ballast resistor impacts the electronic voltage regulator? The previous owner removed the original voltage regulator and installed a "dimple-style" voltage regulator like the one attached here. Since it (dk blu-TR to dk blu (to volt reg)) currently runs through the ballast resistor along with the coil wiring, isn't it receiving reduced current and if so, shouldn't that be left attached to the ballast resistor and only bypass the wire(s) for the coil?
Click to expand...
The VR DOES NOT run through the ballast. But the wiring CAN be problematic, especially if factory, and especially if ithas not been well maintained. The typical voltage drop in the "run" line causes the VR to OVER charge (over voltage) because the dark blue "ignition run" line with inherent drop, providing low voltage to the VR, which then ramps up charge voltage to compensate.

One workaround is a relay. Electrically cut the dark blue "run" line where it enters the engine bay, out of the bulkhead connector, and BEFORE it branches off. Use the firewall end to trigger a relay, connect the engine bay cut end of the dark blue, to the switched contact, and feed the relay power off the big stud on the starter relay, through a fuse or breaker.
 
67Dart273 said:
The VR DOES NOT run through the ballast. But the wiring CAN be problematic, especially if factory, and especially if ithas not been well maintained. The typical voltage drop in the "run" line causes the VR to OVER charge (over voltage) because the dark blue "ignition run" line with inherent drop, providing low voltage to the VR, which then ramps up charge voltage to compensate.

One workaround is a relay. Electrically cut the dark blue "run" line where it enters the engine bay, out of the bulkhead connector, and BEFORE it branches off. Use the firewall end to trigger a relay, connect the engine bay cut end of the dark blue, to the switched contact, and feed the relay power off the big stud on the starter relay, through a fuse or breaker.
Click to expand...
A good idea. I put a relay/fuse box from a 1990's Jeep in all my old Mopars (long black box in my avatar). I have a relay for IGN, Horn, Starter, Lo Beam, Hi Beam, EFI pump, ... Under the dash, I have a relay for ACC to take that current load off the key switch.
 
robodhran said:
This is the ballast resistor from the back side. I just removed the resistor-wire and mounted a jump wire instead and plugged it into the existing terminals. Fits perfectly!


View attachment 1714948356
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That's jamb up and jelly tight right there! Don't say you don't know how cause that's perfect!
 
ir3333 said:
is the pertronix an improvement over the stock mopar electronic distributor?
Is the mechanical advance adjustable on this conversion?
Click to expand...
In my opinion, unless you go straight to the Pertronix with the rev limiter, no. You can do just as much with the Mopar ignition.
 
Agreed. Pertronix versions vary. I understand that the original Ignitor is a simple transistor switch, with no dwell control, so still requires a ballast resistor. It is similar to the 1970's Mopar ignition, though easier wiring than retrofitting that to a pre-1972 car if you use a ballasted coil. Ignitor II is more like GM's HEI, having dwell control and no ballast resistor. Ignitor III adds multi-spark and rev limit, at a much higher price.
 
BillGrissom said:
Agreed. Pertronix versions vary. I understand that the original Ignitor is a simple transistor switch, with no dwell control, so still requires a ballast resistor. It is similar to the 1970's Mopar ignition, though easier wiring than retrofitting that to a pre-1972 car if you use a ballasted coil. Ignitor II is more like GM's HEI, having dwell control and no ballast resistor. Ignitor III adds multi-spark and rev limit, at a much higher price.
Click to expand...
My original igniter, not II or III, instructions want the ballast resistor bypassed and a 3 to 4.5 ohm coil. Red wire to b. res. black to - coil. There is so much info in here and other sites, so I will take a pic of the instructions and post it here. Also I believe my distributor bushings wore to a point which started me on the electronic ignition install. I remember the early slant six distributors had an oil cap when you would oil the bushings. I am taking the distributor that has the worn bushings to a friend of mine who owns a 5 Access Machining Center and I’m going to see what he can do to replace those bushings with the bearings or a bearing. This is the third set of bushings that I’ve had go bad in these distributors, and when I am done, I will offer these distributors here for sale or at least the manufacturing process on your core.
 
robodhran said:
I installed a pertronix ignition in my 1966 Barracuda. The new coil does not need a ballast resistor anymore. Although I read about bypassing in the forum, I still don't have a clue, how to bypass the ballast resistor. That's why I made a drawing with the original wiring diagram. It shoes the wires and their destination...

Is it possible to hook all four wires together...? :)

Thanks a lot

Robert

View attachment 1714947843
Click to expand...
This is not correct, here is how it works, 4 wires
1..."Ignition run" power from the ignition switch, IGN1

2... THAT ignition "run" POWER is jumpered with a short jumper and if you look, connects BOTH end terminals on one end of the ballast.

The connectors and ballast is INDEXED as the two resistors are different values. That is the reason for the "U" shaped cutout on one end

3...On the other end, one of the ballast terminals goes back to the box NOT NEEDED unless you have a 5 pin box. YOU CAN remove it.

4..Terminal goes to coil+. This is ALSO interconnected with the ignition switch bypass circuit, IGN2

So you can REMOVE the wire going back to the box, connect the other two together, and use the coil + wire as your new coil+ and power to the Pertronix.

THE EASIEST way to identify the odd wire is likely..........pull the connector off the ECU. Look up a diagram of the Mopar system, and connect an ohmeter to the one wire that leads to the ballast. Now with all 4 wires disconnected off the ballast, remove the wire that shows continuity.

Connect what is left together
 
Instruction sheet for Ignitor II: http://www.pertronix.com.au/assets/pdf/Pertronix_Ignitor_2_Installation_Instructions.pdf
It has dwell control (GM's HEI) and can use a low-resistance coil (down to 0.6 ohm), such as their Flame-Thrower II. No ballast or "ballasted coil" (~3.5 ohm internal resistance) required or desired.

Pertronix also sells an e-core coil (Flame-Thrower HC), which is similar to the 1985-95 GM HEI coil and the Magnum V-8 coil. It looks suspiciously and exactly like an e-core coil I bought on ebay for $20, but priced $90 and mine is a purtier blue anodized. The primary resistance is 0.32 ohm, which is likely why is isn't listed as compatible with their Ignitor II or III, only with their Digital HP Ignition Box. I didn't measure the primary resistance of my cheap one, nor a GM or Magnum, because hard to measure such a low resistance accurately and it changes as the coil heats. I am currently actuating the e-core coil by a Ningbo small-block distributor with internal 4-terminal module and it hasn't failed.
 
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Commando66 said:
I just did the install on my wagon. I joined the 4 wires together from the ballast resistor and left the original blue wire hooked up the the + terminal of the coil. The only problem that I had was the supplied rotor was hitting the distributor cap. I changed it out with the one that came with my reman distributor.
Click to expand...
which ignitor? 1 2 0r 3. wiring differs
 
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