Caliper Clearance + Tire Question

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turb0mik3

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Hello all,

New member... just picked up a 4spd 67' Barracuda and will be upgrading the stock drum brakes to disc (all four corners) and getting new wheels (due to new bolt pattern) and had some questions...

Willwood Brakes - I would like to purchase the 11" drum disc conversion - 5x4 to 5x4.5 - and I need a wheel with a minimum inner clearance of 13"... I would like to see if the American Racing VN69 Ansen Sprint 15" wheels would have enough inner clearance to pass... wondering if anyone is running this setup or if anyone with that disc brake size is running a certain wheel that would fit.

Those wheels (15x7 front 4inch BS and 15x8 Rear 4.5 BS) will be used with a 1/2 rear leaf spacer kit from Dr. Diff. I plan on running a 215/65-15 front and 275/65-15 rear. I have read that those tire sizes with the specific back spacing will work.

I know it is a scrambled post so hopefully it makes sense... mostly looking for inner diamater clearance with the Willwood brakes and any help on this topic would greatly help... thanks!

Mike

IMG_8235.jpg
 
Also, car looks to have stock ride height... with a 275/60-15 rear, will I need some raised leaf springs to clear the inner fender housing? Fronts are about same height so should be good there... Thanks again!
 
I cannot answer you question.
But I have this to offer;
In my experience;

The tallest tire that I could install in the back of my 68 Barracuda, was a 28" ; AND I had to move the axle back a tad to do it.
That was a 275/60-15.
The 275/65-15 that you mention, maths to 29 and change.
The 15 x8"/ 4.5bs on the stock 8.75 rear end will barely fit into the tubs, wanting to rub on the outer lips. With a lowered ride height (mine looks like yours) the tires want to hit the tubs on the outboard sides were the steps are.
In my experience;
on the street, with street tires, any front discs, and the stock width rear end;
you will never be able to use more brake on the back than the 10x2 inch drums.
I have the same type of wheels as you do. But 14 x7.5 on the front and 15x10 on the rear. Tires are 235/70-14 up front and 295/50-15 on the rear on a narrowed rear end with offset spring-hangers.
On the Front, My Barracuda has the KH 4-piston DB set-up. I run zero proportioning and 15/16 rear wheel cylinders. I also run; a 15/16 M/C and a booster from a 73 Swinger, IIRC.
The car stops exceptionally well on the street, IMO, having saved my azz several times.....

Good luck on your quest for answers.


BTW
if yur only gonna run 215s up front (about 7inches of rubber), then you really don't need much brake to skid those. Discs on the back would have to be pretty heavily proportioned to NOT skid first......... which sorta defeats the whole purpose of having discs back there in the first place.
About the widest 15" tire you can fit on the front is a 245, and that is a chitload of work to make happen, on the factory DB spindles and small UBJs. Not to mention custom BS wheels.
For me, after my 245s wore out, I went back to 235s, and learned to steer with the gas pedal. The 235s provide adequate stopping with the 295s in the back running zero proportioning. It's like I imagine tossing the parachute might be like......
 
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Thank you for the detailed response! I made a mistake in the original posting... I would like to run a 275/60-15 rear tire (not 65 series). I will be doing some fender modifications and the leaf spring shackle/relocation mod, which I heard allows for the outer and inner clearance needed.

You make an interesting point about having too much brake for a 215, which probably should have entered my head. Would it be possible to run a 235/60-15 in the front on stock axles and have adequate clearance? I don't mind running a somewhat shorter tire to make it work. Also, along the braking point, would it be possible to run a significantly lower aggression pad in the rear to work out that brake balance? For newer cars that I race, I usually run a lower aggression pad in the rear to help the brake bias (don't have a brake bias dial in my racecar).

Thanks again for the response!

I cannot answer you question.
But I have this to offer;
In my experience;

The tallest tire that I could install in the back of my 68 Barracuda, was a 28" ; AND I had to move the axle back a tad to do it.
That was a 275/60-15.
The 275/65-15 that you mention, maths to 29 and change.
The 15 x8"/ 4.5bs on the stock 8.75 rear end will barely fit into the tubs, wanting to rub on the outer lips. With a lowered ride height (mine looks like yours) the tires want to hit the tubs on the outboard sides were the steps are.
In my experience;
on the street, with street tires, any front discs, and the stock width rear end;
you will never be able to use more brake on the back than the 10x2 inch drums.
I have the same type of wheels as you do. But 14 x7.5 on the front and 15x10 on the rear. Tires are 235/70-14 up front and 295/50-15 on the rear on a narrowed rear end with offset spring-hangers.
On the Front, My Barracuda has the KH 4-piston DB set-up. I run zero proportioning and 15/16 rear wheel cylinders. I also run; a 15/16 M/C and a booster from a 73 Swinger, IIRC.
The car stops exceptionally well on the street, IMO, having saved my azz several times.....

Good luck on your quest for answers.


BTW
if yur only gonna run 215s up front (about 7inches of rubber), then you really don't need much brake to skid those. Discs on the back would have to be pretty heavily proportioned to NOT skid first......... which sorta defeats the whole purpose of having discs back there in the first place.
About the widest 15" tire you can fit on the front is a 245, and that is a chitload of work to make happen, on the factory DB spindles and small UBJs. Not to mention custom BS wheels.
For me, after my 245s wore out, I went back to 235s, and learned to steer with the gas pedal. The 235s provide adequate stopping with the 295s in the back running zero proportioning. It's like I imagine tossing the parachute might be like......
 
In the front you're not going to be able to run more than a 215 with the Ansen's anyway, those wheels in a 15x7 can only be had with at most a 4" backspace, which means the best you'll do and still clear the fender is a 215/60/15, and that will be pretty close.

Skidding the tire is not a good measurement for brake performance, it never has been and it never will be. You can lock up a wheel with a fast stab of the brakes with much less force than you can apply if you keep the wheel rolling. That's just the physics of friction. The Wilwoods will not be "too much brake" for a 215. They're not even that great as far as disk brakes go, the factory 73+ disks produce more clamping force than that wilwood kit can. And the factory didn't think it was a problem, even running bias ply's on the BBP disk cars.

In the back with a set of 275's you won't have too much brake with a disk either. This has been shown again and again, Mopar muscle did a rear disk conversion on a '73 Dart Sport and checked the stopping distances between the rear drums and rear disks from 60-0. Their result was that from 60 mph factory disks up front and factory drums in the back the car took 133 feet, 6 inches to stop. After the rear disk conversion, the stoping distance improved to 122 feet 4 inches.

The online article is a total mess now, probably something with being converted over or moved to Hot Rod when MM was bought out. The final distance used to be a caption on the second to last picture, but I don't see the captions popping up anymore. The hardcopy article is easier to follow, but that's the way it goes.

Rear Disc Brakes - All Bound Up - Mopar Muscle Magazine

Here's a Road Test Report on a '71 340 Demon, this is a drum/drum car. The stopping distances were absolutely abysmal, for anyone that says drum/drum is ok on the street today. The Road Test guys said they expected a 60-0 of 155 to 165 feet. What they actually got was a stopping distance of 169 ft, on a 3,250 lb car with E70's. That was their "best" distance, not an average of their results but a one off. Their Demon had 10" drums and a power booster. They did say their road surface wasn't ideal, but dang.

Vintage Road Test: 1971 Dodge Demon 340 – Road Test Magazine Takes A Real Devil For A Spin

Just changing from bias-ply's to radials adds a ton of traction, which means you can upgrade brakes even if you're keeping factory size tires. Start running wide tires and you can add a lot more braking than the factory provided originally for the SBP cars.
 
I would like to run a 275/60-15
To run this on a 15x8/4.0bs on a 4.5 bolt-circle,you will not (I don't think), have to install the offset kit. To use re-splined NON-A-body axles, you would have to (with drum brakes), run Non-A-body backing plates which would move the flanges to the outboard about 3/8 inch. Aaaad that will probably put 275s into the outter lips.
Before you attempt to use the A-body axles just redrilled for 4.5 bolt circle, you will see that that there is almost nothing left to support the studs.
If you attempt to convert this A-body rear system to Disc brakes, I can almost guarantee that you will have to narrow the entire thing to use those 4.0bs wheels.
I don't understand why you would want to go to all that trouble, and then run skinny fronts which you would then HAVE to limit the rear brake pressure for.
On the street with street tires, you will never be able to run the rears at same pressure as the fronts, unless perhaps the rear discs are very tiny.

275/60-15s are about 28" tall. If you are able to install them in the proper place inside the tubs,transversely, you will find that you only have about .25 inch clearance to the body, in the vicinity of the front perches. Meaning, when you take off hard or brake hard, the tires will want to get into the body at that location. Therefore, you will need to either move the entire rearend back, or cut the sheet metal. You need a minimum of about .5 inch in that location.

Again, IMO, on the street, converting to REAR disc brakes is a total waste of time and money.
If you just WANT to have DBs back there, for wanting sake, I got no argument against that,lol. But in that case, I would highly recommend what others have done, namely installed an 8.8 Explorer rear end in there.
They say,
and I cannot verify,
that the Explorer rear comes with good sized discs already on it, and is the right width to start with. So all you gotta do is cut the Ford junk off, center it up in your body, set the pinion angle, and weld the new perches on.
And the whole thing is already engineered for you, and is cheap. Case closed. You will still have to sort the brake pressures out yourself, that's it. Well that and the parking brake system,lol.
 
I would go with 1973 factory big bolt brake conversion… in fact, that is exactly what I did on my 1972 Duster. 11” disc up front, 10x2.5 drum out back, brake booster, all new lines. Have yet to drive this setup but my opinion is this: Why go with proprietary parts available from only one source, regardless if they are supposed to be better… what happens in a decade if that company went under and now you need brake pads or a caliper?

Also, the factory brakes are supposed to clear factory 14” wheels, but I went ahead and chose 15” wheels since I was planning to run aluminum wheels and not all wheels are created equal I wanted to guarantee clearance.
 
Oops, another miscommunication haha. Rears will be 15x8 4.5BS with a 275/60-15 + the Dr. Diff leaf shackle spacer kit. Have also ordered some Mopar performance rear springs per his suggestion as well. I will have to look more into what axles I can upgrade to and take a look at the 73+ A body disc brake conversion as mentioned above. I have been reading my *** off on these cars... let's more complicated than my modern BMWs I work on, rofl.

Mike

To run this on a 15x8/4.0bs on a 4.5 bolt-circle,you will not (I don't think), have to install the offset kit. To use re-splined NON-A-body axles, you would have to (with drum brakes), run Non-A-body backing plates which would move the flanges to the outboard about 3/8 inch. Aaaad that will probably put 275s into the outter lips.
Before you attempt to use the A-body axles just redrilled for 4.5 bolt circle, you will see that that there is almost nothing left to support the studs.
If you attempt to convert this A-body rear system to Disc brakes, I can almost guarantee that you will have to narrow the entire thing to use those 4.0bs wheels.
I don't understand why you would want to go to all that trouble, and then run skinny fronts which you would then HAVE to limit the rear brake pressure for.
On the street with street tires, you will never be able to run the rears at same pressure as the fronts, unless perhaps the rear discs are very tiny.

275/60-15s are about 28" tall. If you are able to install them in the proper place inside the tubs,transversely, you will find that you only have about .25 inch clearance to the body, in the vicinity of the front perches. Meaning, when you take off hard or brake hard, the tires will want to get into the body at that location. Therefore, you will need to either move the entire rearend back, or cut the sheet metal. You need a minimum of about .5 inch in that location.

Again, IMO, on the street, converting to REAR disc brakes is a total waste of time and money.
If you just WANT to have DBs back there, for wanting sake, I got no argument against that,lol. But in that case, I would highly recommend what others have done, namely installed an 8.8 Explorer rear end in there.
They say,
and I cannot verify,
that the Explorer rear comes with good sized discs already on it, and is the right width to start with. So all you gotta do is cut the Ford junk off, center it up in your body, set the pinion angle, and weld the new perches on.
And the whole thing is already engineered for you, and is cheap. Case closed. You will still have to sort the brake pressures out yourself, that's it. Well that and the parking brake system,lol.
 
Don't forget that if you install the 73up brakes ( A great idea IMO), your front track will increase about 3/8" per side, putting your tires that much closer to the fender line. That system already comes with a 4.5 Bolt circle.

But here's the thing;
if you already have a set of front wheels that you like, and they happen to be small bolt circle, IMO, I would just use the KH 4-piston system. They are more than adequate on the street with street tires. And according to the FABO chatter on here, they are better than some of the junk engineered systems out there.

And BTW; Having driven on GoodYear Polyglass E70-14s back in the day, IMO;
IMO those were the junkiest tires ever.
But they were, in 1970, about the best TYPE of tire ever put on a Mopar, to that date. They were however woefully inadequately sized for any 340 equipped,Mopar A-body. But, you could do tricks with them . Tricks like changing lanes by flicking the steering wheel, and skating sideways. Like doing 360s anywhere anytime, by flicking too far and too hard. Like laying endless blackies. Like painting the hiways with all kinds of interesting patterns. Like banging shopping carts across the Safeway lots, doing 360s wit the rear tires on fire. And like accident avoidance maneuvers that actually caused other accidents; which is how in grade 10, I got the nicknames of "ditcher" and "ditch-hitter." That 70 Dart on those crap tires was a plow, a pendulum, a rollerskate and a real handful to drive, on those tires; as anyone who ever had one can attest to.
That all changed when radials came out, in 73 I think it was. And I went and got me a set rightaway, couldn't get rid of those stockers fast enough. And wider wheels too. I joined the big and little crowd, like the AAR Cudas.
 
Understood. I liked the Willwood concept as it kept the same hub location and they are a little bit more pleasing upon the eyes. I know hardcore mopar fans will call it sacreligious, but I have to throw some new school flavor on the old school girl. Still weighing my options but thank you for all the helpful replies!!

Don't forget that if you install the 73up brakes ( A great idea IMO), your front track will increase about 3/8" per side, putting your tires that much closer to the fender line. That system already comes with a 4.5 Bolt circle.

But here's the thing;
if you already have a set of front wheels that you like, and they happen to be small bolt circle, IMO, I would just use the KH 4-piston system. They are more than adequate on the street with street tires. And according to the FABO chatter on here, they are better than some of the junk engineered systems out there.

And BTW; Having driven on GoodYear Polyglass E70-14s back in the day, IMO;
IMO those were the junkiest tires ever.
But they were, in 1970, about the best TYPE of tire ever put on a Mopar, to that date. They were however woefully inadequately sized for any 340 equipped,Mopar A-body. But, you could do tricks with them . Tricks like changing lanes by flicking the steering wheel, and skating sideways. Like doing 360s anywhere anytime, by flicking too far and too hard. Like laying endless blackies. Like painting the hiways with all kinds of interesting patterns. Like banging shopping carts across the Safeway lots, doing 360s wit the rear tires on fire. And like accident avoidance maneuvers that actually caused other accidents; which is how in grade 10, I got the nicknames of "ditcher" and "ditch-hitter." That 70 Dart on those crap tires was a plow, a pendulum, a rollerskate and a real handful to drive, on those tires; as anyone who ever had one can attest to.
That all changed when radials came out, in 73 I think it was. And I went and got me a set rightaway, couldn't get rid of those stockers fast enough. And wider wheels too. I joined the big and little crowd, like the AAR Cudas.
 
I bought my car with Wilwood brakes including 6 piston calipers on the front and they really don’t impress me in the least. My car has manual brakes but still for the money they are underwhelming. And with Wilwood brakes they have a larger hub thus limiting your wheel choices. Because of the size of my front rotors I have to run 18” wheels.
A2D3EA4E-19F1-4F0C-9BCB-7BB52237FF78.jpeg
 
they are a little bit more pleasing upon the eyes

What wheels are you trying to run that you are worried about how the brakes look behind the wheels? Unless you are running thin spoke wheels or you are parking with the wheels off and the car on blocks I would focus more on brakes that are easy to get parts for and work well for the performance level needs of the car. In most stock to mild performance applications stock type brakes will be sufficient. If you are autocrossing or other sanctioned racing events then by all means, go wild cause stopping a car is more important than making it go. But buying brakes purely on looks may not be the best avenue to judge. Just curious here.
 
It sounds like everyone here autocrosses/tracks their cars and if you don't do an oem conversion it's a big bad deal lol... I have Brembos on my daily and Spartas on my racecar, so I understand good braking systems and their impact on a car. I will not be autocrossing this car, nor will it see track time as I have a dedicated car for that. This is just a fun weekend, show, cruise car... Even if the Wilwoods (or another like company) get 10% less braking power I prefer the look... also, brake pads are more important than the caliper they are matched with (assuming relatively same build quality); funny how no one has mentioned pads, just calipers.

What wheels are you trying to run that you are worried about how the brakes look behind the wheels? Unless you are running thin spoke wheels or you are parking with the wheels off and the car on blocks I would focus more on brakes that are easy to get parts for and work well for the performance level needs of the car. In most stock to mild performance applications stock type brakes will be sufficient. If you are autocrossing or other sanctioned racing events then by all means, go wild cause stopping a car is more important than making it go. But buying brakes purely on looks may not be the best avenue to judge. Just curious here.
 
No idea why anyone would put 6 piston huge brakes on an a body... what does not impress you with the brakes? Are they still on the stock pads provided by Wilwood? Most stock pads, even from Brembo and big companies, really stink compared to aftermarket ones.

I bought my car with Wilwood brakes including 6 piston calipers on the front and they really don’t impress me in the least. My car has manual brakes but still for the money they are underwhelming. And with Wilwood brakes they have a larger hub thus limiting your wheel choices. Because of the size of my front rotors I have to run 18” wheels.View attachment 1715802172
 
Simply put the Wilwood brakes do not stop all that well. No better than any pedestrian car that’s built today. Maybe I’m just used to all my previous cars and current company car that run Brembos.
They do look good behind my wheels though.
 
Oops, another miscommunication haha. Rears will be 15x8 4.5BS with a 275/60-15 + the Dr. Diff leaf shackle spacer kit. Have also ordered some Mopar performance rear springs per his suggestion as well. I will have to look more into what axles I can upgrade to and take a look at the 73+ A body disc brake conversion as mentioned above. I have been reading my *** off on these cars... let's more complicated than my modern BMWs I work on, rofl.

Mike

With a Barracuda or Duster/Demon/Dart Sport you can usually fit 275/60/15's without the 1/2" spring offset kit. The other thing is, that with a 15x8" and a 4.5" backspace using BBP axles you won't have enough backspace to make use of the 1/2" offset. A factory A-body 8 3/4 with BBP axles will put the wheel mounting surface about 6" from the springs with drum brakes, you can add another 1/4" to that with disks. So a 275/60/15 is about 11" wide at the section, a 15x8 is 9" wide outside to outside lip. So 4.5" of backspace, plus 1" of tire overhang is 5.5", which leaves you ~1/2" of clearance with no offset kit and drums. With disks in the back it will leave almost 3/4", which also means the outside of the tire will be really close, if not rubbing on the inner quarter lip depending on your car and its ride height.

With an A-body rear with BBP rear axles and rear disks I'd be inclined to run at least a 4.75" and probably more like a 5" backspace for 275's. If you're going to run a 1/2" offset kit, make use of it and run at least a 5.25" backspace. If you get too close the the springs you can add a small spacer. If you get too close to the quarters, the options to fix it are a lot more expensive.

Understood. I liked the Willwood concept as it kept the same hub location and they are a little bit more pleasing upon the eyes. I know hardcore mopar fans will call it sacreligious, but I have to throw some new school flavor on the old school girl. Still weighing my options but thank you for all the helpful replies!!

Those Wilwoods have had the same basic design for well over 30 years now, they're hardly new. Plus, they don't work any better. They're basically the same idea as the SBP KH calipers, and Ma Mopar replaced those with better in 1973. They also limit your wheel choices, as the have a very large diameter hub. Shouldn't be an issue with the Ansens, but they're pretty limiting otherwise. And then there's the aluminum hub that has to be safety wired together. There are much cheaper options that work better (like the 73+ factory brakes). But if you want bling, Wilwoods are the chrome that won't get you home. With the 73+ disks you can run a 15x7 with a 4.25" backspace and 225/60/15's, even with a 4" backspace you should be able to pull off 215/60/15's.

It sounds like everyone here autocrosses/tracks their cars and if you don't do an oem conversion it's a big bad deal lol... I have Brembos on my daily and Spartas on my racecar, so I understand good braking systems and their impact on a car. I will not be autocrossing this car, nor will it see track time as I have a dedicated car for that. This is just a fun weekend, show, cruise car... Even if the Wilwoods (or another like company) get 10% less braking power I prefer the look... also, brake pads are more important than the caliper they are matched with (assuming relatively same build quality); funny how no one has mentioned pads, just calipers.

You're not really making sense here. I don't just run OEM brakes anymore, I run DoctorDiff's 13" Cobra style kit. Heck you've got another member with Wilwoods telling you not to get them. The reason you're getting comparisons and suggestions to go OEM is because the OEM brakes will outperform the Wilwood kit you're looking at and still fit 15" wheels. If you want to go aftermarket then there's plenty of options that will flog the wilwood kit you're looking at, but most of them won't fit with 15" rims.

Also, you can get decent pads for the OEM slider style calipers. Firm Feel has options, you can get the whole range of pads from EBC for the stock slider calipers, and Bergman AutoCraft is taking interest in carbon/kevlar pads for the stock calipers too. But if you're just driving on the street a decent set of semi-metallics will be more than fine for you. And since you say this is only a cruiser, I'm not sure I see why you need something other than regular old brake pads.


No idea why anyone would put 6 piston huge brakes on an a body... what does not impress you with the brakes? Are they still on the stock pads provided by Wilwood? Most stock pads, even from Brembo and big companies, really stink compared to aftermarket ones.

Uh, to stop the car better? With the better tire compounds that you can get for larger wheel diameters, not to mention wider tires, even A-bodies can make good use of high performance brakes.
 
I appreciate the feedback. After some thinking I will be going with the Dr. Diff Stage 2 front and stage 1 rears per Cass's, and your, recommendation. I did get most of the rear fitment specs from him so crossing my fingers everything links up correctly. I will have to wait until december for the front brake kit and new rear axle but should be worth the wait and hopefully Santa gives me a nice working car for Christmas. Thanks for the advice, I do appreciate it.

Mike

Simply put the Wilwood brakes do not stop all that well. No better than any pedestrian car that’s built today. Maybe I’m just used to all my previous cars and current company car that run Brembos.
They do look good behind my wheels though.

QUOTE="1971 CY Dodge Dart, post: 1973623041, member: 60252"]Simply put the Wilwood brakes do not stop all that well. No better than any pedestrian car that’s built today. Maybe I’m just used to all my previous cars and current company car that run Brembos.
They do look good behind my wheels though.[/QUOTE]
With a Barracuda or Duster/Demon/Dart Sport you can usually fit 275/60/15's without the 1/2" spring offset kit. The other thing is, that with a 15x8" and a 4.5" backspace using BBP axles you won't have enough backspace to make use of the 1/2" offset. A factory A-body 8 3/4 with BBP axles will put the wheel mounting surface about 6" from the springs with drum brakes, you can add another 1/4" to that with disks. So a 275/60/15 is about 11" wide at the section, a 15x8 is 9" wide outside to outside lip. So 4.5" of backspace, plus 1" of tire overhang is 5.5", which leaves you ~1/2" of clearance with no offset kit and drums. With disks in the back it will leave almost 3/4", which also means the outside of the tire will be really close, if not rubbing on the inner quarter lip depending on your car and its ride height.

With an A-body rear with BBP rear axles and rear disks I'd be inclined to run at least a 4.75" and probably more like a 5" backspace for 275's. If you're going to run a 1/2" offset kit, make use of it and run at least a 5.25" backspace. If you get too close the the springs you can add a small spacer. If you get too close to the quarters, the options to fix it are a lot more expensive.



Those Wilwoods have had the same basic design for well over 30 years now, they're hardly new. Plus, they don't work any better. They're basically the same idea as the SBP KH calipers, and Ma Mopar replaced those with better in 1973. They also limit your wheel choices, as the have a very large diameter hub. Shouldn't be an issue with the Ansens, but they're pretty limiting otherwise. And then there's the aluminum hub that has to be safety wired together. There are much cheaper options that work better (like the 73+ factory brakes). But if you want bling, Wilwoods are the chrome that won't get you home. With the 73+ disks you can run a 15x7 with a 4.25" backspace and 225/60/15's, even with a 4" backspace you should be able to pull off 215/60/15's.



You're not really making sense here. I don't just run OEM brakes anymore, I run DoctorDiff's 13" Cobra style kit. Heck you've got another member with Wilwoods telling you not to get them. The reason you're getting comparisons and suggestions to go OEM is because the OEM brakes will outperform the Wilwood kit you're looking at and still fit 15" wheels. If you want to go aftermarket then there's plenty of options that will flog the wilwood kit you're looking at, but most of them won't fit with 15" rims.

Also, you can get decent pads for the OEM slider style calipers. Firm Feel has options, you can get the whole range of pads from EBC for the stock slider calipers, and Bergman AutoCraft is taking interest in carbon/kevlar pads for the stock calipers too. But if you're just driving on the street a decent set of semi-metallics will be more than fine for you. And since you say this is only a cruiser, I'm not sure I see why you need something other than regular old brake pads.




Uh, to stop the car better? With the better tire compounds that you can get for larger wheel diameters, not to mention wider tires, even A-bodies can make good use of high performance brakes.
 
Not sure if any of this helps but....69 with manual 73 up slider type frt discs and stock type rear drums. 15x7 frts 4" BS 225/60-15 15x8 rear 3.75 BS 255/60-15. Everything clears fine and the car stops easily

omFlsnG.jpg
 
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