I agree with Mopar Official. Likely will prefer a PV that opens sooner, and you will probably have to accept slightly higher idle in rpm in N and D.
Let's see this timing/rpm map.
AFR and timing go together hand in glove. I think if you can ge the timing a little closer to what this engine wants then the jetting etc will be easier. Then you can tweak the timing a bit moire and repeat until you are satisfied or you make changes resulting in minimal improvements.
Improvents are defined by better performance. Stronger idle in gear, Higher MPH in the quarter mile, Better fuel milage and higher vacuum while driving steady on flat to slight uphill, Smooth increase in power (throttle response) with increasing throttle. Notice that AFR is not on the list. AFR from a WBO2 can useful as a reference but its not needed, and certainly is not the definition of performance.
From what we know---
High compression pistons. More compression should require less timing lead throughout.
Unknown cam. We can assume that a high overlap cam was installed. This results in more reversion (poor signal) and less compression at idle and low rpm. => more lead time needed.
In gear 850rpm 5-7Hg > she’ not happy there. Likes a slightly higher idle. Have the secondaries open a little to maintain balance for in/out of gear balance and to maintain correct transition slot opening.
In neutral 1000rpm 10-11Hg
I can post my timing map tomorrow but let’s just say it’s like 15° initially and 31° all in by 3000RPM. But because it’s a map this is not exactly true. At lower RPM like 650rpm in order to keep her running in gear I bump timing way up to about 33°. She then bumps around to maintain the lower idle but she’s not very smooth as you can imagine.
15° initial is OK for starting (100 rpm) but too low for idle. If you can program it to step up to 20 or 22° from say 300 to 1000 rpm, that probably will be a reasonable base timing to try to get a good idle with.
At 5-7 "Hg there is not much pressure on the idle circuit. A lot less than when in neutral. Is that with 15° or with 33°? There's also a lot less pressure moving air into the cylinders. Cracking the secondaries helped but maybe will want more air. A bunch of different ways to do that.
If it 5-7"Hg with 15° then making the base timing around 20° will be the next thing to try.
On the carb, there's a few things you can experiment with to richen the slow idle. The easiest without modification is stick wires in the idle air bleeds. (This will also effect off-idle, but the point here is to just see whether richening the idle circuit helps. If 5-7"Hg all that can be obtained then could go true 4 corner idle, but if more vacuum can be developed, then IFRs an sharing the primary idle may be the better approach).
