Cam break in check list

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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So hopefully Friday or Saturday we will be firing up dads engine after installing a new cam and lifters, springs, timing chain and gears. Anyway I dont see it as a typical break in, cuz we have never seen/heard this engine run. What do you guys suggest to put on the "check list"??

1. "burp" the engine(thanks 67dart273)
2. running straight water for break-in(in case of leaks)
3. Fire extinguisher(lefts frickin hope not!!)
4. water supply
5. tach
6. timing light
7. video

Any ideas/suggestions??
 
# 3 and 4 are most important on my list...been there...done that....should have brought marshmallows :D.
 
You need at least 2 people, one to maintain rpm's and one to monitor the engine.

You may also want a fan to put in front of the radiator blowing air into it, or at least have one set up handy if needed.

Double check all connections, electrical hoses etc.

Before starting check and double check all fluids, prime. Get it running and smooth it out as quickly as possible.

And yes by all means video.
 
Thanks badsport and rocky! I gotta give the carb manual a flip thru. Good idea about the fan. John, I tried to talk dad into the Mopar repro battery($250) but he wouldnt go for it...got a Canadian Tire one for $120.
Thanks again guys:thumleft:
 
ZDDP, or another good break in oil, don't want to do this twice.
 
make sure you use a zinc additive....otherwise the engine will be ruined. I had my 225 re-built and the mechanic was down right adamit about it. I used Lucas break in additive and rotella oil.
 
Steve , i would start with 2 turns out on the mixture screws and the idle screw turned a bit. make sure it is a TDC and advance it a touch (counterclockwise) until you are able to get it dialed in. and please use an air cleaner just in case of a backfire
 
flyfish said:
# 3 and 4 are most important on my list...been there...done that....should have brought marshmallows :D.
Click to expand...

I'm with you on this one. Weather permitting, I'd do it out in the driveway. I about burned the garage (and car) down once when I did the first fire up my Challenger. (pun intended)
Make sure the tranny cooling lines are tight. Trust me, tranny fluid spraying on hot headers will ignite...lol. I had about a 4 foot circle of fluid on the floor before I realized it was leaking. Then it ignited and I was pushing the car out of the garage (by myself). Yelling to my wife in the house to get the garden hose. What a site I must have been. If I only had a video....lol. I had flames coming up between the firewall and engine before I got it moved.
 
Nice to have a temp. gun to point at the oil pan or filter to keep track of the oil temp.
 
73AbodEE said:
Steve , i would start with 2 turns out on the mixture screws and the idle screw turned a bit. make sure it is a TDC and advance it a touch (counterclockwise) until you are able to get it dialed in. and please use an air cleaner just in case of a backfire
Click to expand...

I've tried to "preach" against this. PLEASE do not set "Static timing" AT TDC

Rather, bring the engine up, no1 ready to fire AS IF you were coming up to TDC, but set your marks INSTEAD BEFORE TDC where you think you want your timing.

For this procedure, I would thing 12-15* would work.

IF you have points, move the dist cw (to retard) THEN BRING IT back CCW (advanced) until the points open You can easily check this with a light

If you have breakerless, align the reluctor wheel tip to the center of the pickup coil. WITH PRACTICE, key on, coil wire hooked to a plug "test gap" you can move the dist back/ forth and hear and see where the spark "happens" while slowing down the movement each time. Either of these two methods will get it close enough to run that you don't have to "screw" with it which is the LAST thing you want.

WHAT YOU do NOT want is --a lot of grinding on the starter (wipes the lube off the cam)

or a lot of "screwing around" trying to keep it running. You should be able to fire the engine and almost IMMEDIATELY bring it up to the recommended break in RPM

Make sure you have LOTS of battery, IE good cables, connections, maybe a booster handy, your best charger at hand.

Make sure you have PRIMED the fuel system and carb, and if there is any question about fuel, make up a small squirt can/ bottle with some clean fresh fuel in.

After firing, monitor head temp on the ends of the heads (light touch with your hands) to check for hot and watch for circulation in the radiator.

The oil system should be already primed and checked

I used to pull the filter

Give the thing a quick shot to get oil at the filter port

Install a FILLED filter.

With an open hose attached to the sender port, prime until you pump oil out the sender

Plug the sender port (install the sender) and watch for oil at the rocker shafts, while turning the crank by hand.
 
I just set my carb to where it idels at 2k or more and rev it every once in awhile.
 
have a garden hose ready.... and a screw driver to set the idle to 2200 and then fluctuate between there and 2800, get the oil flinging around real good.
All u have from cam goo is a film..
...the lube gets wiped upon he 1st cranking and completely flung off when rev'd.
Thats why its good to fluctuate rpm some so that the crank throws oil onto the cam.

once fired, just set the timing to something safe at that low rpm, like 30*-32* total, no vac advance.
 
A lot of good info here. I plan on firing my 408 for the first time this weekend as well.
 
williaml said:
make sure you use a zinc additive....otherwise the engine will be ruined. I had my 225 re-built and the mechanic was down right adamit about it. I used Lucas break in additive and rotella oil.
Click to expand...

Zackly what we got Lucas and Shell rotella
 
4spdragtop said:
So hopefully Friday or Saturday we will be firing up dads engine after installing a new cam and lifters, springs, timing chain and gears. Anyway I dont see it as a typical break in, cuz we have never seen/heard this engine run. What do you guys suggest to put on the "check list"??

1. "burp" the engine(thanks 67dart273)
2. running straight water for break-in(in case of leaks)
3. Fire extinguisher(lefts frickin hope not!!)
4. water supply
5. tach
6. timing light
7. video

Any ideas/suggestions??
Click to expand...

What does "burp the engine" mean?
 
Idaho said:
What does "burp the engine" mean?
Click to expand...

You leave the rad., cap off so all the air comes out when the thermostat opens. Hard to do with the car sitting flat. Most people say have the car at a uphill angle. I do not usually do it during break in, I do it after.
 
Idaho said:
What does "burp the engine" mean?
Click to expand...

Fst73_360 said:
You leave the rad., cap off so all the air comes out when the thermostat opens. Hard to do with the car sitting flat. Most people say have the car at a uphill angle. I do not usually do it during break in, I do it after.
Click to expand...

That's not what Steve and I discussed. I ALWAYS leave the upper heater hose (near the stat housing on the intake) disconnected at the heater when filling the cooling system. This leaves a NICE big "blowhole" open to the heads and block so coolant can force it's way up. You can point the hose "overboard" until you get a dribble of coolant out, then jack it up in the air to top off the system, then just hookup the hose.

IT IS POSSIBLE to airlock most engines, and it happened to me once when putting a Sig cam into my 440. I caught it in time, as I was "feeling" the heads while noticing that the top hose/ heater hoses were not getting warm.
 
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