No, that is your goal.That should be the GOAL.
No, that is your goal.That should be the GOAL.
And what are you looking for in such an engine? Daily driver, dedicated 1/4 mile racer, round round racer, what?That should be the GOAL.
We're gonna do this all winter long, aren't we?
And what are you looking for in such an engine? Daily driver, dedicated 1/4 mile racer, round round racer, what?
If it was 1980 I’d say I agree. It’s not 1980 any more.
Lift is our friend, whether it’s a street car or not.
And what are you looking for in such an engine? Daily driver, dedicated 1/4 mile racer, round round racer, what?
Who said lift is bad? Would you quote them please?Daily driver street/strip car.
Someone needs to explain how lift is bad. It’s such a ridiculous statement but that’s what it is.
Lift is bad.
Lift is good (that’s what I say) and I can’t think of a reason where more lift is bad.
Again, it’s 2025 and .600 lift is the new .480 lift.
It’s hilarious that people continue to say lift is bad and they mean anything over .500 lift is bad.
That’s asinine.
We're keeping the door (valves in the case of an engine) the same for arguing sake, only thing changes is amount door is open (or valves). We're not adding a1.78 vs a 2.02 intake into the equation at this point.It's cold out, so lets use a door letting in cold air for comparison.
- Lift - How far the door is opened. A door opened all the way quickly/shut quickly lets in a quick, cold blast.
- Duration - How long the door is opened. A door opened half of the way but held open for 30 seconds will drop the temp in the room even more having much more of an effect on dropping temps in the room.
- and Ahhhh... we keep leaving out what may be most important - the SIZE of the door !! If one is a pet door and one is a garage door, hmmmm...
What if the head flows the same at .450 and .600?
You still lift the valve to .600 because you lift average the flow.
Unless you are a street car guy. Then performance doesn’t really matter as long as it sounds cool.
Good winter bench racing topic. One I've actually wondered about in the past.We're gonna do this all winter long, aren't we?
Screw Comp. No way would I run their crap anymore. Something like this would be nice.I feel like I asked a guy what time it was and he told me how to build a watch.
I asked what I thought was a simple question and some well intentioned members took it WAY FURTHER than I can understand!
Thank you, but I must have mistakenly thought the answer was a simple one like It is all dependent on the flow capabilities of the intake and exhaust systems.
The engine I’m building is a stock stroke 360. I’m using #308 heads that are UNported. I do have an Air Gap intake, a Holley 750 and 1-5/8” headers. I only tore this engine down because it blew the head gaskets and the owner let water sit inside and a few cylinders got rusty. I am not building a race engine, it will be entirely for the street and honestly, dirt trails and fields. The car is a beater 67 Dart that already has a decent 360 but I got this engine for $500 and just wanted to go through it for fun. I’m in no way looking to squeeze the very last bit of power from it, I will be happy with a small improvement over the existing engine.
The curiosity about cam lift just sprung from my own desire to understand why some companies differ in their reasoning.
Comp Cams had an “HL” series of cams with higher lift as other cams with similar duration.
I figure that the lift was changed for some reason, one that I wasn’t familiar with.
Since You're not dealing with max effort race cam stuff, the cam with greater lift and the same duration will make more oats, just be sure to run the specified springs/loads & You're golden.....I feel like I asked a guy what time it was and he told me how to build a watch.
I asked what I thought was a simple question and some well intentioned members took it WAY FURTHER than I can understand!
Thank you, but I must have mistakenly thought the answer was a simple one like It is all dependent on the flow capabilities of the intake and exhaust systems.
The engine I’m building is a stock stroke 360. I’m using #308 heads that are UNported. I do have an Air Gap intake, a Holley 750 and 1-5/8” headers. I only tore this engine down because it blew the head gaskets and the owner let water sit inside and a few cylinders got rusty. I am not building a race engine, it will be entirely for the street and honestly, dirt trails and fields. The car is a beater 67 Dart that already has a decent 360 but I got this engine for $500 and just wanted to go through it for fun. I’m in no way looking to squeeze the very last bit of power from it, I will be happy with a small improvement over the existing engine.
The curiosity about cam lift just sprung from my own desire to understand why some companies differ in their reasoning.
Comp Cams had an “HL” series of cams with higher lift as other cams with similar duration.
I figure that the lift was changed for some reason, one that I wasn’t familiar with.
What springs are you running? How many pounds at open and closed? Machine work to run .600 lift, guides and valve pockets? I'm already fast enough at less than .500 lift.
Who said lift is bad? Would you quote them please?
As I've said for many years, it depends on what you're doing. For instance, "I" am not going to use a .600 plus lift cam in a slant 6. Their rocker arms are made of folded over sheet metal and I will likely never be able to afford a "good" rocker for a slant.....and even if I could, I wouldn't, because my stuff is 100% street.Look at all the guys bitching about even .550 lift. That’s who.
Good winter bench racing topic. One I've actually wondered about in the past.
On the 0.600" is the 1980s 0.480" the heads, the guide length, spring bind, etc on the same set of heads is still what it was then. So there's that too.
As I've said for many years, it depends on what you're doing. For instance, "I" am not going to use a .600 plus lift cam in a slant 6. Their rocker arms are made of folded over sheet metal and I will likely never be able to afford a "good" rocker for a slant.....and even if I could, I wouldn't, because my stuff is 100% street.
I tend to agree, which is why I set my unicorn head up with the big block 911 Comp springs and I also shortened the guides. Even still, the camshaft for that project is only .495 lift. I have enough room to go .650 plus, but for one, I'd need more spring, which I'm not going to do and two The head flow numbers don't dictate that large of a camshaft.Well you found my exception to that rule…the /6.
Not many consider the slanty a performance engine but you should be able to do .525-.550 lift pretty easy.
This is the cam that was in the engine:I'm an armature old car owner. But it seem to me a motor performs to its limiting factor. Carb too small? Lift not matched to the head flow? Restrictive exhaust? To heavy a load through the rest of the driveline? So now you have built the perfectly matched driveline and you toss in a bigger cam. I would need to start the process of growing the rest of the package or its a useless improvement. Probably even slow the car down.
Same with machining. The further away from stock the more fragile unless $$$ to build Everything to the next level. Just my experience.
Starting to look like an A J reply here but why put in a higher lift than the rest of the system needs?
Oh ok. So I take it you're going back roller then?This is the cam that was in the engine:
View attachment 1716356064
It is a cast iron core so it also has the standard stock oil pump drive. I rode in the car that had this engine, it ran great but that car only had a 3.23 and he ran it with 360 cast manifolds. My Dart has a 4.10 and will have headers. The 308 heads had springs to match the cam, there were no signs of piston to valve issues or detonation.
I'll need new pistons but will use this cam again. I just noticed that the Hughes cams had more lift than other brands of cams that I have seen.
More lift compared to duration? I agree.This is the cam that was in the engine:
View attachment 1716356064
It is a cast iron core so it also has the standard stock oil pump drive. I rode in the car that had this engine, it ran great but that car only had a 3.23 and he ran it with 360 cast manifolds. My Dart has a 4.10 and will have headers. The 308 heads had springs to match the cam, there were no signs of piston to valve issues or detonation.
I'll need new pistons but will use this cam again. I just noticed that the Hughes cams had more lift than other brands of cams that I have seen.
Yeah, this will be my first ever roller cam engine. I want to put roller cams in my other V8 cars too.Oh ok. So I take it you're going back roller then?