Can epoxy primer be used over Rustoleum rattle can gloss black paint?

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Litz

Litz

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I bought this 65 Valiant as a roller and the PO had recently painted the engine compartment with Rustoleum gloss black rattle can paint. I would like to have the under hood area the same color as the car so I'm wanting to get rid of the black and go with the body color. From what I can see the guy did a really good job of cleaning/prep work before he painted it and I'm hoping that maybe I can prep it again and epoxy prime it without stripping the Rustoleum? I'd appreciate any advice/suggestions. Thanks in advance.

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I wouldn't trust it, but the only way to know, is to spray some of the primer, and see if you get any issues.
 
If that was mine, I would sand it with 400, degrease it and shoot epoxy primer.
The epoxy mixed right lays down nice, hit it with 600 and degrease it and shoot color.
But it's not mine----------------------:)
 
DesertRat said:
If that was mine, I would sand it with 400, degrease it and shoot epoxy primer.
The epoxy mixed right lays down nice, hit it with 600 and degrease it and shoot color.
But it's not mine----------------------:)
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Thanks for the info! I'll give it a try.
 
Pressure wash it, if paint blows off you will know what needs to be done.
 
Im in the process of stripping my whole car and have been speaking to some brothers on FBBO that do it for a living and what I am being told is you use a sealer if going over any other paint, body work ect ...
 
Spray bomb products can be touchy as it is an un-catalyzed product. As such, when you put another solvent based paint over it, it can attack the spray bomb paint causing wrinkling, crazy fisheyes, or other goofy reaction problems. As a body/paint guy I would refuse to paint over it. More often then not you end up with a bigger mess and more money in materials for a re-do then just removing it to start with. Like said, it's only as good as the prep and what was done or if it was sanded under the spray bomb is an unknown.
 
GeorgeH said:
Spray bomb products can be touchy as it is an un-catalyzed product. As such, when you put another solvent based paint over it, it can attack the spray bomb paint causing wrinkling, crazy fisheyes, or other goofy reaction problems. As a body/paint guy I would refuse to paint over it. More often then not you end up with a bigger mess and more money in materials for a re-do then just removing it to start with. Like said, it's only as good as the prep and what was done or if it was sanded under the spray bomb is an unknown.
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Boy Oh Boy! I can't agree more!! It looks like he did a nice job on prep but you have no idea what was used. Good luck on a guess. If a budget build I would leave it black. Anything short or a redo no way.
 
Some people will tell you sealing primer will help and that is true. But you still have a lot of sanding and prep work before that.
 
Rustoleum makes a fine product. Applied correctly, it can outlast you. No one has a crystal ball. I just love when the experts come out. My advice is simple. Try a small spot. Prep it like you would the whole thing. Then prime it and paint it body color. See what happens. I just "BET" it turns out fine. When it does, just do the rest and blend in with your test spot.

You COULD even try a simple degreasing and try a self etching primer and see what that does. That could eliminate the need for sanding.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Rustoleum makes a fine product. Applied correctly, it can outlast you. No one has a crystal ball. I just love when the experts come out. My advice is simple. Try a small spot. Prep it like you would the whole thing. Then prime it and paint it body color. See what happens. I just "BET" it turns out fine. When it does, just do the rest and blend in with your test spot.

You COULD even try a simple degreasing and try a self etching primer and see what that does. That could eliminate the need for sanding.
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X2! It's a crapshoot. Maybe it's fully gassed out and was prepped really well... Maybe it's not.. Might be simple.. Might suck balls. Check a spot.. go from there..
 
RustyRatRod said:
Rustoleum makes a fine product. Applied correctly, it can outlast you. No one has a crystal ball. I just love when the experts come out. My advice is simple. Try a small spot. Prep it like you would the whole thing. Then prime it and paint it body color. See what happens. I just "BET" it turns out fine. When it does, just do the rest and blend in with your test spot.

You COULD even try a simple degreasing and try a self etching primer and see what that does. That could eliminate the need for sanding.
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I don't want to sound like an expert but there are many new paints that do not play well with others. You may be able to use a self etching primer for most paints but if it gets shot with a newer water based paint it might not go well. But then again if he keeps the hood closed...
 
Hellrats said:
I don't want to sound like an expert but there are many new paints that do not play well with others. You may be able to use a self etching primer for most paints but if it gets shot with a newer water based paint it might not go well. But then again if he keeps the hood closed...
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I wasn't accusin anybody directly. Simply sayin that he doesn't know till he tries. It may well not work, but it doesn't hurt to try, right?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wasn't accusin anybody directly. Simply sayin that he doesn't know till he tries. It may well not work, but it doesn't hurt to try, right?
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I couldn't agree more. I try stuff myself, I like to see with my own eyes. Have I learned the hard way, sure ! but that's how we learn.
 
I'm going to see what happens. Looks like it was prepped very well before the Rustolium was applied so I'll do a small test area before I go nuts with it. Thanks to everybody that replied. When I get a chance to try it I'll let you guys know if it works,
 
Not everyone is a proponent of gluing cars together and rustoleum roller paint jobs. Some of us have to stand behind our work and I just can't do that with a layer of "I don't really know what it is in the middle of it"

Solvents try and penetrate so I would not suggest putting an aggressive acid etch primer over an uncatalyzed paint. If it doesn't fry up, it's going to soften it. Even the etch prime manufacturers recommend abrading before application.

Some are happy taking shortcuts and passing off sub-standard work. I'm not that guy. A little upfront elbow grease will go a long way as opposed to spending more $$ "to try" more products to try to keep going in the wrong direction.
 
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Gee whiz, it's white car... the guy could have saved everyone all this trouble by just using white Rust-Oleum! Or maybe you could put white R-O over that with no issues?
 
Gee whiz is right. One would think a tech editor would have the expertise to apply the product they recommended properly, or at least take the time to do some research so they are not telling others to do it improperly.
 
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