Can I beat this with a hammer (rear tire well)?

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Rice Nuker

Rice Nuker

Let the Coal Roll!
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I am interested in relieving a little above the tire in the outer upper wheel well on the rear.

Shown in the pics circled in black, highlighted in green, are what I would like to massage with a hammer.

My main an only concern is distorting my quarter panel where it interfaces with the wheel well since the wheel well provides support to the quarter there.

Does anyone have experience with massaging this area?

Thank you.
 

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I haven't done it to answer the basic question. You might be able to get away with some minor massaging, but as you have already determined, I think you run a substantial risk of distorting the outer surface of the wheel well. Jus' my opinion. L8r
 
i havent done it either, but it looks risky. if anything , i would make a relief cut and then massage it flat like you want it and then fill the void.

with some creative cutting , you maybe able to cut that section out , flip it inside out, or swap it with the other side then weld it back in
 
Would you say your quarter panel did not suffer from distortion??

Do you have any pictures of such massagitization?

I am well versed in the application of various levels of finesse with my 3 lb hammer, so yea, cant wait to start the beatings.

sst3193 said:
Took a 2LB hammer to our Duster and pushed that back and it took a while.
Click to expand...
 
we have to do that with our SS cutouts... use heat on that bump and that will help it move...
 
I would like the idea of a few relief cuts on that hump, then warm it while working it out, then weld up the cuts. Grind down to a finish.

I would think the relief cuts would lessen the chance of distortion. I'm thinking use a cutoff wheel and do a 2" cut leave 1" and so forth from one end of the hump to the other. It would be much less stress, if I'm thinking about it correctly.
 
y'know, a jack and a block of wood might get it close; then the hammer. Put a straight edge and level on the good side. Measurements from the upper body line; match the good side.
 
Lots of light hits sometimes works better than fewer heavy hits. Not sure why but I believe the Molecules start to move and "heat" up with the multiple lighter hits. It still may be easier to cut it and weld in some metal to strengthen it back up. Might be a Good time to practice welding.
 
I needed that space as well so I cut out the inner fender and put new metal to make the connection to the outer skin again.
I also cut down the lip to .5" wide.
Andrew
 

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Wow, that did it to the max!
The reason I wanted to beat mine is I did not want to start cutting and welding. I already painted it completely inside and out, I am painting the underside (again) but etching epoxy and such has been layed down and paint in inside already. Dang!.

I think from the responses about relief cuts, I have decided to drill about 30 very small holes in the curve where the inner quarter makes its last bend before going vertical. This way when I beat it, the holes will allow the metal to flex more, relieving some of the torque applied to the interface between inner quarter and the quarter. I am going to cut my lip down a fair amount too. I will probably cut the lip after the beatings.
 

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Update. I had the car upside down a few months ago, got my 3 pound hammer and gave the hump a solid whack. It didnt even budge. The car sounded like a huge drum booming. All I did was make a dent the size of a nickel and about as deep. That steel is strong in that configuration.

Considering I am not into going back to cutting, bludgeoning and fabricating then having to repaint and deal with other associated aftermath, I gave up on the idea.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
On both of my A bodes, I have moved the inside of the well even with the frame, allows a 325/50-15 tire.
 
Thanks. Yea I bet that quarter has some waves in it now. Beating on the inside for a while with a board on the outside.
Yea once I saw how much 3 pound hammer beatings I would have to do to deform the metal in that area on my car, I said eff that.

I would have had to put new quarters on it next! Heck, maybe take it to the frame shop too! just kidding.


67cudafb said:
I don't know if this helps. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/1211phr_1968_plymouth_valiant/ Take it with a grain of salt.
Click to expand...
 
Rice Nuker said:
Thanks. Yea I bet that quarter has some waves in it now. Beating on the inside for a while with a board on the outside.
Yea once I saw how much 3 pound hammer beatings I would have to do to deform the metal in that area on my car, I said eff that.

I would have had to put new quarters on it next! Heck, maybe take it to the frame shop too! just kidding.
Click to expand...

I have beat on a few, never distorted any of them, untill going for taller tires.----------bbo
 
Cut the bump out and use adhesive to install pieces of other inners in place of the outers. They are installing full quarters with this adhesive. No hammering . no heat and strongar then spot welds. There is no chance of screwing the quarter and you will be able to treat the rust behind it. I did it when insalling Duster wheel lips on a Dart and it worked out great
 
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