Can this be duplicated with a 5.9 build??

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Wow, is that some secret recipe? Thats amazing.
Since a few people have asked, its real simple.
Stock mag block, dissembled, machine shop cleaned.
The usual rebuild parts, new cam bearings, soft plugs etc.
Stock bore just a fresh hone.
Keith Black 107 pistons.
Stock rods reconditioned.
Crank turned .010/.010, balanced with mallory added.
The cam was a comp 262 roller for a LA. The truck it went into was a 78 W150.
The stock heads were cracked, so I bought a new set of eldebrock magnums, and had the machine shop go thru them.
I lucked out and bought one of the last M1 duel plane aluminum intakes for a carb.
Ran a 325 street demon carb.

Nothing fancy, I just picked my combination of parts and built it.
PcLfWI.jpg
 
Maybe I’m all alone with my thoughts here but, no way in hell does 360 inches make 450lb/ft at 2400 rpm. Sorry that’s why guys buy diesels for tow rigs. The 450lb/ft is easily doable, The 310 hp is easily doable. It’s the 2400 rpm that is not.
 
That one posted was 410 at 3000 with a nice, flat curve.

That's close.

...and a 5.9 is gonna be a heck of a lot cheaper to build and maintain than a v10.
 
That one posted was 410 at 3000 with a nice, flat curve.

That's close.

...and a 5.9 is gonna be a heck of a lot cheaper to build and maintain than a v10.
3000 is not close to 2400 for peak torque. But 410 at 3000 is not bad at all.
 
Depends on gears. 600 rpm is forever with 2.45 gears and 30 inch wheels. In the flip, 4.56’s and 24 inch tires…. It’s a blip! LMAO

(Back to serious conversation……)
 
Depends on gears. 600 rpm is forever with 2.45 gears and 30 inch wheels. In the flip, 4.56’s and 24 inch tires…. It’s a blip! LMAO

(Back to serious conversation……)
600rpm is even more forever in a 7000lb truck towing 10,000lbs of trailer
:rofl:
 
Ima thinking, something like;
a fairly flat torque curve beginning at say 3400
about a 3000TC
an A518 (727-based) overdrive with lock-up,
and whatever gears it takes to NOT hunt up/down at cruising speed.
Say you built a 360 that can tow that 10,000lb rig at 70=2800, with a reasonably throttle-opening, and no hunting, and say you have 30" tires. In .69od that would take a 5.13 rear gear. Your starting-off gear would be 2.45 x 5.13=12.57 which, normalized to 27lnches would be 11.31
With the 2800 TC she might be a lil lazy off the line, but a little ways out, she'll be boogieing. And in direct, she might be hitting 4400@70 with 10% slippage, That is boogie territory.
Per the graph below;
Passing, in direct
at 55mph will get you. ..~3500/290hp/420tq, at the fat part of the curve. By 60mph.. the Rs are up to 3800/300hp/414tq
By 70mph ............. ..... 4400/327hp/390tq
Interesting stuff.
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I built a 360LA engine like this with a Hughes 223/230@.050/110LSA cam, Edelbrock alloy heads, KB 167s, and 11.3/1 Scr. By it's Trapspeed , this made 335 hp, shifting at 7000, waaay past the power-peak.
But it made more than enough torque to cruise in double overdrive (A833od-GVod) at 65mph= 1600, even sucking thru a 750DP. Mind you, my Barracuda was only 3900 pounds with the two of us, and our gear, in it.
With a final drive ratio of 1.97 and 27" tires, this maths to 100=2460rpm. We mighta cruised there for a few hours, following an early 2000s Corvette. Can't say for sure but I think the Vette mightabin doing 120 for a part of that time, lol. Whatever, I kept him in my sights.
I ran this engine on E87 full time with 32/34* Power Timing, delayed to all-in by 3400. For fuel-economy, it liked up to 60* advance at 100kph=62mph.
Your results may vary.
There are two KEYs to this combo.
First is the Alloy heads that allow a very high CCP(Cranking Cylinder Pressure),without detonation. And
Second is a rock-solid running temperature, that allows a decent tune to stay where you put it. I have no idea how some guys tune an engine to run with an ever-changing cooling system temperature of 20 to 30 degrees. Mine, best I can tell, has no more than a 2* variance once warmed up.
Some FABO members have stated that they run OVER 200 psi CCP in their stroked 360s, allbeit on best gas. For a short time I ran there as well, but on 87E10 with no detectable detonation. At the end of the season when I freshened the engine, she was just fine. But I made some changes that winter and by spring, she was running 185psi. She still made so much torque/power that I never bothered with trying to optimize the PowerTiming.
I cannot tell you if this combo would have made a good engine for your 10,000 pound rig, on account of I have never towed anything with it. But I always thought it made a pretty good tractor-type engine in my 3650pound (me only in it) Barracuda. I ran it for about three years with the A833od manual trans in it. By 2003/2004, I had bolted a GVod behind that, to split gears with. A year or two later, I had a Commando A833/GVod in it and a bigger cam,lol. I really loved thar 223 cam and was very sad when it started to drop lobes.
@sireland67 mentions a Comp 262 cam, Which I like and agree with. But trying to keep the pressure down below say 185 ( for 87E10) might be tough. The 360 with; the 63cc Edelbrocks, a FelPro .039 gasket, and KB107s, falls together at about 10.7Scr, without touching the decks. The Comp 262 is likely to get you about 182psi@900ft elevation, so it'll be nip and tuck. But the worst that can happen is that you will have to run 89 gas, lol.

Happy HotRodding.

059-3601-jpg.jpg
 
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Since a few people have asked, its real simple.
Stock mag block, dissembled, machine shop cleaned.
The usual rebuild parts, new cam bearings, soft plugs etc.
Stock bore just a fresh hone.
Keith Black 107 pistons.
Stock rods reconditioned.
Crank turned .010/.010, balanced with mallory added.
The cam was a comp 262 roller for a LA. The truck it went into was a 78 W150.
The stock heads were cracked, so I bought a new set of eldebrock magnums, and had the machine shop go thru them.
I lucked out and bought one of the last M1 duel plane aluminum intakes for a carb.
Ran a 325 street demon carb.

Nothing fancy, I just picked my combination of parts and built it.
View attachment 1715805687

how was the idle and vacuum with that cam?
 
I had the idle set around 700 rpm and vacuum was about 18" very mellow cam.

thanks for getting back to me, I have been eyeing up a cam with basically the same specs for my build. It’s going in a 78 D100 2WD. Looking for something with a bit of pep that I can still take on long cruises.
Would you use the same cam again for that application?

thanks again for sharing.
 
thanks for getting back to me, I have been eyeing up a cam with basically the same specs for my build. It’s going in a 78 D100 2WD. Looking for something with a bit of pep that I can still take on long cruises.
Would you use the same cam again for that application?

thanks again for sharing.
Yes I would buy that same cam grind again, it just works, and with the intake closing of the cam, it will bleed the compression off. I built the engine with alot of compression, then changed the cam to dump it off for a 4x4.
The first cam I had in the engine was the 280 comp roller, the engine made 225 psi cranking compression, with the 262 cam, it dropped it to 175 psi. It ran great on 93 pump, I would dump 110 octane in it, if I was pulling a heavy trailer. Alot of steep hills here in WV, just did not want any detonation.
 
310 hp at 4100 rpm 450lbft torque at 2400 rpm.

These are the published hp and torque figures of the cast iron 8.0 v10 Chrysler used in the 90's.
Having had one of these that rotted out before its time I have missed the power for towing.
But I see some of the amazing 5.9 builds published on this forum and it made me wonder if instead of building for horsepower maybe some of you much smarter than me would entertain an idea of building for something to haul the race car or boat.

You can build a stock short block 5.9 magnum that will make 400 ft lbs from 2500 to about 4000 easy as falling out of bed. Insert a mild cam and go.
 
You can build a stock short block 5.9 magnum that will make 400 ft lbs from 2500 to about 4000 easy as falling out of bed. Insert a mild cam and go.

Yup, and hook it to an overdrive trans with the right gearing, that'll tow nicely. I considered that option for my '72 D200 which currently has the original 360 2-bbl with a 4-bbl and headers. It towed my Duster on a U-haul trailer (5000 lbs?) and it did OK but going up some of the hills on I-25 along the Front Range of CO was a bit of a struggle. I decided on building a 440 because the truck currently only gets 10 MPG unloaded anyway (strangely doesn't change much when towing) and the torque will hopefully be on par with the V-10 although likely not peaking at quite as low an RPM. And I can keep it simple with a 727 and 3.55s with 32.5" tires. Chrysler designed the iron V-10 specifically for truck use in place of the Cummins diesel, it was mated to the same transmissions and running gear in most cases. I'd love to have one some day, but then I want a Cummins too lol
 
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