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That would be awesome...thanks!
you caint have one. caws I said so. :toothy10:
Nice car, and you did an awesome job detailing the engine bay. It's kinda funny, recently I replace my manifold because it broke the exact same way, just on the other side of the heat-riser. When your ready to supe up that slant, give me a hollar. It warms my heart to see a lady driving a classic. It further warms my heart when she does her own work.
Just a FYI. Most of the early slant six cars, did not have a fan shroud. It would be very difficult to locate one. I am in florida, but a fair distance from you, so it would be difficult for me to come there. PS: there will be a Mopar show/swap meet, on Jan 22, 2011 in Melborne, Fl. I will be there http://www.allyinics.org/MOB/swapmeet.htm
My grandfather left me his 65 when he passed, and it was give to me when I was 16. (1983) The first winter I froze to death in that car. Come spring time the car kept running hot or over-heating. The impellor on the water pump had rusted off. Replace the water pump with a quality one, no problems after. Also most early slants have no shroud. How far are you filling the radiator? There is a plate when you look in the radiator, do not fill with antifreeze over this plate. And last, put a new radiator cap on it with the correct pressure.
This was kind of mentioned before,but if you have'nt done it yet,check your timing. Out of time can make it run hot.
Man...I am a happy girl! All of this help is overwhelming and so much appreciated! Guess what? I have a retired Chrysler mechanic (in Lakeland!!!) that has replied to my distress! Since, it was a PM, I won't reveal his name just yet! You know who you are...THANK YOU! & Thank all of you, too!
thats great.let us know the fix.
We'll do! :-D
That's nice Bea. I knew if there was anywhere on the net you could find help it would be here.
I did not see anyone actually ask, so here it is.... When you say running hot, has it actually overheated & boiled over? A lot of these cars run at 3/4 temp on the guage, but if it is not actually overheating there is no problem.
/6Dan went over this with me earlier...see below: Not boiling over at all The temp reading stays on the high end of the 3rd hash mark and a little higher...so, are you saying this would be normal after 2 or 3 miles down the road? [FONT=garamond, new york, times, serif] C |__|_____|__|_|H my heat range in red [/FONT]
Bea, Might be that you are running a high temp thermostat. My 72 stays in that range after about 10 to 15 minutes of driving, but stays put. I would run an aftermarket water temp gauge and keep a tight eye on it.
No. If everything is in proper operating condition, it is not normal. There are specifications for the sending unit measured in ohms. Likewise for the temperature gauge. If either is bad, that could be your false reading. I would say verify that it is indeed overheating. Try to find someone with an infa red heat gun and get a measurement of the temperature close to the sending unit. That should nail it down one way or the other. I would suspect that if the engine was indeed in the area that the gauge indicates, the coolant temperature would be in excess of 200 degrees.
How long have you had the Lancer?
Well maam i live in lake wales but im a bit of a young gun (im 17 haha) but if you ever need some help with something jus gimmie a call. Lol just pm me. Thanks, my name is sye
Went to the radiator shop today and the old radiator is in great working condition & no signs of rust. Performed all the standard tests, pressure, looked for holes...nothing. The guy did a backflush and a couple of things were replaced: the the radiator cap (missing rubber seal) and the Temp. Sender (just flat out old!), new Thermostat (Stant # 45358-SuperStat) opened and is in working order and the T-Gasket, of course! The Voltage Regultor came in today, so that will be replaced in the morning. Bea is in better cooling condition. However....................... the Heater Core...leaking! White smoke coming through the vents. Talked with my "secret" Chrysler mechanic today and I'm hoping to get Bea to his house this weekend or Monday. It's crazy folks...he lives about 8 miles from my house, if that! Going to by-pass the heater core, until I can get it fixed and adjust the idle...too high. Excited & Thankful that he is going to take a look-see at Bea and help me out! Thanks to all of you for your advice & help...love this site! MoparDude2012...Thanks for your offer, too! I just might look you up!
nothingbutdarts...Feb 14th will be 1 year I have had Bea....have done a lot of other work at repair shops...now this is going on.
So glad to hear there is such a wonderful member here to help you out. This is what makes this sight GREAT! Hope you get the Lancer up and running tip top soon!
I am a thankful girl! :-D
Ok Patch...here it is! It's soooooo pretty!
Run the car up to temp and stick a thermometer ( one that will go to 180/220) in the rad and see what your actually at. This might tell you if the stat is buggered if the coolent is too cold for a hot engine which means it's not opening. If its around 180/190 and your gauge is saying it's overheating , the gauge/sender is bad. Get a good mech temp gauge, I don't know how original you want your car to be but good gauges are important, Just mount it under the dash. Some of the Water wetter products do work as well. My car actually runs 10 degrees cooler.
Bea, As mentioned, you have the aluminum bock, which was only made the first few years of the Slant Six (61-63). They are a love/hate thing. See www.slantsix.org/articles/dutra-blocks/alm-block-sl6.htm Passionate owners and a special club. They got together and had the special head gaskets custom made. You can't use a regular head gasket. Many aluminum engines had problems w/ corrosion, head gasket leaks, and over-heating, which could be your problem. Indeed, the white smoke that came out of your heater core might have been combustion gas leaking by. The main reason was that owners didn't use the special Chrysler coolant for aluminum. Most coolants today are fine with aluminum. If that is your problem, and you can't fix it (mill block, etc) and must replace the engine, you can get a regular iron Slant Six almost free. Many people take them out to put in a V-8 and advertise "come get it". BTW, while on the other side of the country now, I graduated from USF and my mom grew up in Tampa.
I don't want to pee in your Cheerios but DO NOT RUN THAT FILTER!!!!! You are better off with the plastic one or better yet just get one of the all metal ones (4 bucks). The glass ones are not allowed at drag strips because if the glass cracks or shatters you will be pumping fuel everywhere.
Yes, they're pretty and chrome. But listen to JR and Patch -- those things are a death trap waiting to happen and those clamps suck. A biggggg x2 on using the boring metal canister fuel filter and spending your "chrome" money elsewhere in the engine bay. Besides Bea, you do a really nice job on your cleaning efforts and that in itself speaks highly of the way you take care of your car. People are so used to seeing grunge and gunk under the hood they're never gonna notice that fuel filter ... until it spouts 89 octane all over the place and they're runnin' for fire extinguishers.