Can't figure out this damned oil leak

justinp61

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when that started we said cars like that had " The Blue Death"...

I remember it well. My cousin put together a sbc for a pulling truck and used it everywhere. The engine made about three pulls before it ate it's self. When it was disassembled there was blue silicone everywhere, including the stopped up oil pick up. The truck owner was very unhappy.

To the OP, I'd swing by my local dealer and speak with one of their techs and get some advice on the seal install.
 

451 demon

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your installing it in backwards first picture is the back of the seal that goes toward the timing chain
 

mopar65

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Over on the LX Fourm they was saying that the new mopar front crank seal, the side with the numbers/letters faces out. Also Robin i don't know if you already have this tool or even need it. But I found it while I was looking for info on the crank seal

Screenshot_20220919-204210_Chrome.jpg
 

408 swinger

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The block has two dowels that the timing cover receives onto. Only thing I can think is if you loosen the pan completely to relieve the cover. Really splitting hairs at this point.
 

Cudafever

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So the dowels is centering the seal bore. Hmmm
Maybe it is just as simple as the seal was backwards..........................
 

408 swinger

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20220920_074911~2.jpg

Hard to see the dowels. But, they're there!
 

Cudafever

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yup i see them.
as you said the sucking up of the oil pan is splitting hairs
I think that installer would be a help, especially in the car.
 

mopar65

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yup i see them.
as you said the sucking up of the oil pan is splitting hairs
I think that installer would be a help, especially in the car.
Here is a little more info about the seal installer.

Screenshot_20220920-112111_Chrome.jpg
 

RockinRobin

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View attachment 1715988228
Hard to see the dowels. But, they're there!
Would probably work on a stock motor in the stock location. I have some complications to this situation:
1. I am not using motor mounts, I have a motor plate which is attached to the front cover. In order to get the front cover to move around, I would have to support the motor with a cherry picker and remove the motor plate, which is attached to the front cover very firmly with the grey mopar RTV. I don't think that sucker is ever coming off.
2. I do not have an OEM damper, it is an ATI super damper, the tube section that goes onto the crank sticks out further than the stock ones do.
3. Before this rebuild I never had an issue with this seal leaking. I think I may have installed it incorrectly the 1st time.
4. I have a friend who is a mechanic in the local dealership. He is going to come over and help me install it.
 

408 swinger

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Would probably work on a stock motor in the stock location. I have some complications to this situation:
1. I am not using motor mounts, I have a motor plate which is attached to the front cover. In order to get the front cover to move around, I would have to support the motor with a cherry picker and remove the motor plate, which is attached to the front cover very firmly with the grey mopar RTV. I don't think that sucker is ever coming off.
2. I do not have an OEM damper, it is an ATI super damper, the tube section that goes onto the crank sticks out further than the stock ones do.
3. Before this rebuild I never had an issue with this seal leaking. I think I may have installed it incorrectly the 1st time.
4. I have a friend who is a mechanic in the local dealership. He is going to come over and help me install it.
Understood. Your cover would still be dowled to the block? But, all things considered, you shouldn't be having issues. ATI should still work with stock seal and cover. Mine does. Hope you figure it out!
 

RockinRobin

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Understood. Your cover would still be dowled to the block? But, all things considered, you shouldn't be having issues. ATI should still work with stock seal and cover. Mine does. Hope you figure it out!
I agree, as I recall those dowels fit into the front cover pretty tight, no wiggle room. We'll get it working. Like I said I had no trouble with it leaking before this build and it's the same damper and cover.
 

451 demon

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if you install the seal with the side in your last picture out. facing the dampner you shouldn't have any problem.if he works at a chrysler dealer he should have the tool like the holley tool so it should install easy
 

MopaR&D

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Check out the YouTube channel "Reignited - Cycle and Automotive", guy is a former Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram dealer technician with several G3 Hemi build videos and tons of "insider" tips and tricks. I imagine one of his assembly videos should show the correct orientation of the front crank seal.
 

RockinRobin

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Check out the YouTube channel "Reignited - Cycle and Automotive", guy is a former Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram dealer technician with several G3 Hemi build videos and tons of "insider" tips and tricks. I imagine one of his assembly videos should show the correct orientation of the front crank seal.
Thanks, I watched several of his videos and I got the info I was after. The protruding lip of the seal faces OUTWARD toward the back of the damper. I'll try to get this installed tonight, but you are supposed to wait at least 4 hours before running the motor to let the PTFE material form around the damper shaft.
 

MopaR&D

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Thanks, I watched several of his videos and I got the info I was after. The protruding lip of the seal faces OUTWARD toward the back of the damper. I'll try to get this installed tonight, but you are supposed to wait at least 4 hours before running the motor to let the PTFE material form around the damper shaft.

Awesome, glad I was able to help, at least indirectly! Lol
 

RockinRobin

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Well we installed the new seal last night, with a little bit of black rtv on the back side. Let it sit all night and then fired it up this morning. No leaks!
I haven't been able to run it up to temp. yet as I am waiting on a new bottom radiator hose, but I am optimistic!

Here are some fuzzy shots of the seal, with the lip facing outward. It never got caught on any part of the damper going in, so no nicks. I sanded down the damper with #1000 sandpaper in case there were any burrs that might cause a problem. I should be able to take it to TNT in a week. If all goes well, next race is Oct. 8th.
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