CAP / QA1 K member

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Okibonoe

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I just ran across an old article that featured the CAP K member with a front steer rack and pinion option. Any idea why QA1 didn't bring that option with the relabeled K member?
 
I just ran across an old article that featured the CAP K member with a front steer rack and pinion option. Any idea why QA1 didn't bring that option with the relabeled K member?

Because the front steer geometry with the factory suspension is terrible.

CAP had some good designs, but they also made some very questionable decisions.
 
Gotcha. What was bad about the geo? Was it a bumpsteer thing? Was it bad for corners? Just wondering. Ive had some aftermarket K's on other cars, and the geo was off, but more than correctable. A lil Ackerman math, and we were good!

Thanks!
 
The Ackerman is a problem.

If I remember correctly even CAP marketed that rack as only for drag racing.

If you “need” to have a rack and pinion then a full k frame replacement and coil overs is the way to go. RMS, HemiDenny, etc. Use suspension actually designed for front steer instead of trying to band aid the factory rear steer suspension to work with front steer components.
 
A few pics may serve to better inform.

upload_2019-8-15_21-11-9.png


No apparent Ackermann issue with a modified steering geometry.
upload_2019-8-15_21-16-21.png
upload_2019-8-15_21-15-11.png


The Welded steering arm and stock knuckle gives some pause

upload_2019-8-15_21-17-43.png
 
A few pics may serve to better inform.

View attachment 1715379635

No apparent Ackermann issue with a modified steering geometry.
View attachment 1715379639View attachment 1715379638

The Welded steering arm and stock knuckle gives some pause

View attachment 1715379640

There’s no way in hell I’d run that welded spindle on the street.

Do it right or stay off public streets.

The factory Mopar, rear steer suspension components do not lend themselves easily to a front steer conversion. Can you do crazy BS like the suspensions above and maybe come out with steering geometry that’s somewhat passable? Sure.

But why? Why spend the time and energy re-engineering the entire steering geometry using parts that were intended for rear steer so you can have a cobbled up front steer rack?

What does a rack get you anyway? A little more modern steering feel? It doesn’t make you faster. Maybe a manual rack might save a couple pounds over a manual steering box, but if you weld 5 lbs of iron onto your spindles I doubt you’re coming out ahead.

I’m sticking with my original advice. If you MUST have a rack, buy an RMS or HemiDenny conversion. That way you’re using components that were designed for front steer and a well thought out conversion. I’ve seen more than a couple of these front steer rack conversion attempts here, they almost never end well.
 
There’s no way in hell I’d run that welded spindle on the street.

Do it right or stay off public streets.

The factory Mopar, rear steer suspension components do not lend themselves easily to a front steer conversion. Can you do crazy BS like the suspensions above and maybe come out with steering geometry that’s somewhat passable? Sure.

But why? Why spend the time and energy re-engineering the entire steering geometry using parts that were intended for rear steer so you can have a cobbled up front steer rack?

What does a rack get you anyway? A little more modern steering feel? It doesn’t make you faster. Maybe a manual rack might save a couple pounds over a manual steering box, but if you weld 5 lbs of iron onto your spindles I doubt you’re coming out ahead.

I’m sticking with my original advice. If you MUST have a rack, buy an RMS or HemiDenny conversion. That way you’re using components that were designed for front steer and a well thought out conversion. I’ve seen more than a couple of these front steer rack conversion attempts here, they almost never end well.
What does a rack get you / Usually no clearance problems on the headers , I would think. I cant imagine a factory steering box and shaft clearing my headers .
 
What does a rack get you / Usually no clearance problems on the headers , I would think. I cant imagine a factory steering box and shaft clearing my headers .

Mine does! No clearance issues between the headers, steering shaft or steering box.

Besides, I’d rather need a couple dimples in the headers than have a jacked up Ackerman or have to weld steering arms onto the stock spindles. That’s just asking for trouble.
 
Mine does! No clearance issues between the headers, steering shaft or steering box.

Besides, I’d rather need a couple dimples in the headers than have a jacked up Ackerman or have to weld steering arms onto the stock spindles. That’s just asking for trouble.
do you have a r/b , w/ raised port heads / Makes a lot of diff. .
 
Mine does! No clearance issues between the headers, steering shaft or steering box.

Besides, I’d rather need a couple dimples in the headers than have a jacked up Ackerman or have to weld steering arms onto the stock spindles. That’s just asking for trouble.

Agree on the ackerman .
Do u have a r/b w/ raised port heads ?
MY headers came off of a 68 dart r/b , raided port heads , w/ factory steering, the 1-3 tubes were beat in pretty bad.
I cut them out and drove an 1 7/8" trailer ball thru them while heating them, re welded them in. They are close everywhere, but clear everything .
 
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