Car was running hot, then won't start

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flyinbysocal

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Hi all. My 1964 Dart GT always gets up to the low end of the operating range on the engine temperature gauge. Well yesterday, after driving for 10 minutes it, the temperature needle was moving toward the upper end of the operating range, where I've never seen it go. So I went home and parked it. I also noticed some clear-ish fluid draining from the drain tube under the very front of the car, which I have not noticed before. The engine block read 195 degrees using my hand-held temperature gun (not sure if this is an expected temp or not). I came out 10 minutes later to pull it into the garage, and the car wouldn't start. After multiple attempts, the battery sounded drained. 2 hours later, I jumped the car and it started right up. I pulled it into the garage, where it sits now. I initially figured it wouldn't start because it's time to replace my old battery. But then I thought, maybe the battery draining is related to the rise in temperature on the engine temperature gauge. I am by no means an auto mechanic, but I do minor jobs myself. Any thoughts on what the issue could be? Thanks in advance!
 
You live in So cal so it's ethanol fuel. When the engine coolant was boiling over the gas in the carb boiled out into the intake so that's why it wouldn't start easily. And why it did start later.

If it was leaking coolant prior to the drive would you see it on the floor or parking area? Or do you park on dirt or gravel? Maybe it has a leak and was low on coolant before the drive?

What engine and carb are we dealing with
 
7 years in deep east Texas and mine would refuse to start on warm days after running a bit. Tried a lot of things but it always started again AFTER the gas cooled off!

What thermostat do you use? I understand that there is a 195* option so that’s not a problem. Mine will creep up too if I am not moving for several minutes >15. It likes to be in N for those longer periods rather than in gear. What were you doing when it started getting hot?
 
Sounds like it was flooded or had vapor lock. The overheating (if it truly did) is probably related. What engine? Radiator? Fan? Pulley arrangement are you using?
 
My 1964 Dart GT always gets up to the low end of the operating range on the engine temperature gauge. Well yesterday, after driving for 10 minutes it, the temperature needle was moving toward the upper end of the operating range, where I've never seen it go

Check coolant level?
What was the air temp during your drive?


So I went home and parked it. I also noticed some clear-ish fluid draining from the drain tube under the very front of the car, which I have not noticed before. The engine block read 195 degrees using my hand-held temperature gun (not sure if this is an expected temp or not)


Are you sure the "clear-ish fluid" was radiator fluid, could it be power steering fluid?

If you run without an overflow tank and the rad was topped off, it will overflow fluid as the engine heats up then suck air back in ( it's finding its own level, should be 1" below the bottom of the filler neck)

195 on the block is not too warm. Where were you measuring?


I came out 10 minutes later to pull it into the garage, and the car wouldn't start. After multiple attempts, the battery sounded drained

The car would not start as in it would not crank or it would crank bug not fire?

How many attempts?

How long was each attempt?

Tell me about your starting procedure. Typically if my car is warm 1 to 2 pumps and a few seconds of cranking and it will start.


. 2 hours later, I jumped the car and it started right up

Sounds like you drained the battery trying to start it. If you have a battery charger give it a shot

I initially figured it wouldn't start because it's time to replace my old battery.
May be, also if the car is not driven often but is started often. You are taking more out of your battery then you are putting back in


But then I thought, maybe the battery draining is related to the rise in temperature on the engine temperature gauge


Not likely, BUT, if your charging system was not functioning properly there is a VERY slight chance the gauges were reading higher than normal (not likely and the IVR should have not allowed that to happen)
 
All,
After reading your valuable input, I checked the radiator and I could not see any coolant in it from the top looking down into it (and there’s no reservoir). So I’ll get some coolant in there tomorrow. I’ll then monitor it for leaks to see why it went dry (or close to dry). I’ll also have the battery checked and replace if necessary. I’ll get back to you with an update. Thanks again!

To answer some of your questions: I have not noticed any puddling of coolant on my garage floor. Car is practically 100% stock (family owned since 1965). V8 283 engine. Only modification is swapped points for an electronic ignition 10 years ago. Carb is original (overhauled 8 years ago). Not sure what thermostat it has. Original radiator/fan/pulley setup. Air temp during my drive was a standard San Diego 65 degrees. Drive was 10 minutes at no faster than 25mph. No power steering on this car so it wasn’t power steering fluid leaking. When I tried cranking it, it would crank and not fire. Then, after repeated attempts at cranking, it would not crank at all. So probably drained the battery trying to start it so many times.
 
Being an old engine, I suspect a blown head gasket, with coolant leaking into the cyl.
 
To answer some of your questions: I have not noticed any puddling of coolant on my garage floor. Car is practically 100% stock (family owned since 1965). V8 283 engine. Only modification is swapped points for an electronic ignition 10 years ago. Carb is original (overhauled 8 years ago). Not sure what thermostat it has. Original radiator/fan/pulley setup. Air temp during my drive was a standard San Diego 65 degrees. Drive was 10 minutes at no faster than 25mph. No power steering on this car so it wasn’t power steering fluid leaking. When I tried cranking it, it would crank and not fire. Then, after repeated attempts at cranking, it would not crank at all. So probably drained the battery trying to start it so many times
I wish everyone would provide this type of info, thank you.


Check your oil level of it is over full or chocolate milk it suggests a water leak into the oil.

My timing cover corroded behind the impeller and coolant was Leaking into the oil pan.

I hope that's not the issue.
 
Argh...I checked the engine oil and it looks like it's water-down. The oil level is a little high as well. And I do see some milky-ish liquid on my garage floor. Pretty sure I know where the coolant went... Repairing this will be beyond my abilities, so I'll be searching for a mechanic in the San Diego area to help with this. Out of curiosity, what are all the reasons how coolant can contaminate the oil? So far you've all mentioned: Blown head gasket w/ coolant leaking into the cylinder and timing belt corroded behind the impeller and coolant leaking into the oil pan. Are there any other common ways? Thanks in advance.
 
Start simple, a bad intake manifold gasket is very possible on your small block mopar.

Is this engine stock?
Is it the stock intake and carb?
How many miles?
Have you overheated it in the past before this incident?
 
The aluminum timing chain cover is the most likely for a coolant leak into the oil, on a small block.
 
Before you start tossing cash at it...

Go to your local auto parts store and see if they have a pressure tester for rent.

Pump up the cooling system to 16 psi and let it sit. If it goes down over time and nothing is leaking out outside the engine you know you have an internal leak.

Also there are test strips to show combustion gasses getting into the coolant

With a factory service manual you can tackle the front cover and the intake manifold with typical hand tools and a socket set.
 
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