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Yes good advice every one here should have a spare in glove box!
I put in new ballast resistor and new coil. It still won't start. What else could it be?
Since your car has electronic ignition ask for a ballast resistor for a 73+ car
There is a starter relay that could be going out and or bad, ..it is mounted on the inner fender or fire wall, ... I wonder if your key switch has lost connection or needs a wiggle and cleaning where the wires plug in to it.
Is it still doing the same thing(starts and as soon as you release key it stalls), if so bypass the resistor and see if it ll run (only do this for testing purposes , do not drive like this) , if it runs then it is possible the new resistor is faulty as well (new does not allways equate to good)!Could be the ignition sw. but before you start tearing into the column or anything else for that matter you need to test a few things (min tool would be a test light but better with a multimeter some small ones @ hardware stores somtimes as little as 10bucks)see if you have power at resistor with key on , go to MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring Diagrams 1966 to 1971 find your wiring diagram and try to visualise what is happening...
Put a jumper between the two terminals on the ballast resistor (with the normal ignition wires still hooked up). If it starts and runs, the ballast resistor is probably bad. If it still starts when the key is in start, but shuts down once you put it in acc, then you probably have a bad connection somewhere on the run (not start) circuit. I can't remember if that's the blue or brown wire, I think it is the blue one. In this case, check the bulkhead connector to see if you have any loose or corroded terminals, make sure to check under the hood and the dash. I got so sick of mine that I wired a switch that keeps that circuit energized when the key comes off start. Works as a kill switch, too, but you can't accidentally leave it on or you may fry your ignition box or coil.
If other things work in acc then the switch is good, correct?
I bypassed the ballast, still won't run.
Does it start then die or crank and no start ,does it crank period?Go back to basics gas spark and compression , gas is easy to check or compensate for (pour some right in the carb) does it run longer , YES , then look for a stuck shut float valve! Spark on crank easy to check again , either with old sp plug that you ground to a bolt on engine somewhere the wire will reach or screw driver in sp wire boot and with handle hold close to a ground (gap for arch). for checking spark while running well I guess youll have to have it running (any one have a better idea can chime in anytime)! If you are down to compression and last time you drove or shutdown was uneventful , then look for timing chain skip!
Pull the sp plugs and cleanthem out , crank the engine with foot to the metal , maybe just flooded too!!!
How did you bypass the ballast resistor? Does it still start in START and die in RUN on the switch?
I ran a wire between the two female connectors after disconnecting them from the ballast. It still starts then dies. My screwdriver shaped tester lights up when clamped to positive battery terminal and touched to the coil with the key on.
Whats wrong with the Orange box? I ran it on mine years ago, not a problem. Also, in the Summit link the "good" box you all are mentioning isn't available. Where do you get the "good" box?
Start it and "pulse " spray some carb cleaner in the carb, see if it stays running. That would eliminate fuel if it still dies.
the orange box has had know issues since the 90's. just up and quit on people.. its a common issue..
here is the box on amazon.. Amazon.com: Standard Ignit ion LX101 LX101 Module: Automotive used to be able to get them from napa too. not sure if ya still can or not. i used to run the standard brand box and have a cheap pepboys one in the trunk . never had to replace the standard on on my car but used the cheap pepboys one numerous times to help someone out at local cruises.. it was always an orange box that failed on them..
Seems like that would work, but try running a wire from the + battery terminal to the + coil terminal. Leave the ballast hooked up. At least then you know you've got power to your coil. if that's a stretch, you could run a wire from the big lug on the alternator to the coil + terminal.
Just a shot in the dark, But what about the Netrual Saftey switch?
I know this was sorta said but it bears repeating; Start the car and keep the key in the START position. Keep the engine running with the gas pedal just as you normally do. The starter has an over-running clutch on it, and this will not hurt it. Keep it running this way for maybe 10 seconds. This will prove that that the ignition and fuel systems are BOTH normal. Now, relax the key switch to RUN. If the engine stalls, then, there is something wrong in the run circuit. It could be the ballast.It could be the sw. Or it could be the wiring between the sw and the ballast.
It is fixed. I had to replace the wire from the bulkhead to the ballast resistor. I removed the center bulkhead and jumped the power from the connector to the firewall bulkhead. I turned the key on and had power coming back out of the firewall. I plugged the connector back into the firewall and had power to the resistor. I tried to start the car without success. I checked the resistor again and had no power. I wiggled the wire and I would have power on and off. I replaced the wire and it fired right up. Thanks for the help.
Good job!!! Very happy for you
Please be sure you don't get led "down that road." It is far more likely that a bad terminal in the bulkhead connector is the problem rather than "the wire." You may have "fixed" it by wiggling that terminal/ the new one/ etc, all I'm saying is "be certain." You might want to wiggle the heck out of the bulkhead connector before something leaves you stranded. Those connectors have always been a problem.