car won't start until I release the key from the cranking position.

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RJK3

RJK3

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Hi guys,
73 Duster, 360 , stock dizzy, chrome box.
Flame thrower coil.
I can crank and crank but it doesn't start till I release the key from the cranking position.
Where is the best place to start looking?
The switch?
The harness?
The ignition box?
I have a FBO box I could try if anyone thinks that could be an issue.
It doesn't matter how long I crank, short-long.
It always starts, just not when cranking.
 
Manually operated switches are always the most likely culprit in circuits where they exist. That's where I would start. Actually at its harness connection under the column. You may find melting to failure right there. If it appears to be fine. Then electrical signals coming through it with a volts meter. Pull the yellow wire off the starter relay ( disables starter ) temporarily, while testing.
 
The absolute best and easiest place to start is to see if you have 12 volts at the coil while cranking.
Bet ya don't, and bet the ballast resistor is why.
For no more than they cost, just get a new one and replace it if you are not sure about how to check for voltage, and where.

More than not, the ballast is the problem and not the ignition switch when these cars do what you are describing.
 
X2 on the ballast resistor. Have had that happen more than once.
 
X3 in ballast resistor . Recently happened to me.

Plus the ballast resistor is easier to rule out before taking the column or dash apart
 
Bulkhead connectors.

In start the ballast is OUT of the system on a mopar.

Test light the coil side of ballast in start position. If it's dead, check the ign2 wire going to and out of the bulkhead. My Dart has issues with this connection all the time.
 
also had this in one of them ....the wire between the ignition switch and the bulkhead connector.

bulkhead side being on the bottom.
 

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crackedback said:
Bulkhead connectors.

In start the ballast is OUT of the system on a mopar.

Test light the coil side of ballast in start position. If it's dead, check the ign2 wire going to and out of the bulkhead. My Dart has issues with this connection all the time.
Click to expand...
Just a quick check of that bulkhead connector revealed a little signs of discoloration. I'll swap the ballast and check the coil while cranking and report back.
thanks for the tips guys!
 
I may be wrong here , but would a failed ballast cause the exact opposite. I had a similar problem when I wired in modern electronic ignition in place of points . Forgot to give myself cranking voltage to the coil. Ign2 was forgotten. Sounds like what he's describing.
just throwing it out there.
 
Leadfoot said:
Correct. The situation described is the opposite of a bad ballast resistor condition.
Click to expand...

actually that is right ....now that I think back ....when it was a ballast resistor it wanted to start while in the cranking position and when I let go of the key it wanted to die out. so I am thinking backwards and the OP is opposite problem.

when I had the problem with the wire being cooked then it was like the OP ......wanted to start in the run position but was no go while cranking
 
The one and only time a ballast failed on me, I could start the engine and as long as I held the key just right it would stay running.

As soon as I let go of the key to the run position, it would die.
 
crackedback said:
Bulkhead connectors.

In start the ballast is OUT of the system on a mopar.

Test light the coil side of ballast in start position. If it's dead, check the ign2 wire going to and out of the bulkhead. My Dart has issues with this connection all the time.
Click to expand...

Not if it is a dual ballast resistor, you could have a good run side but a bad start side. could be switch, wiring/bulkhead connectors, or ballast. Check for power in start at coil, bulkhead, and switch. That will allow you to isolate the problem, you might even see a lose/bad connection while getting to those places to test.
 
I had loose bulkhead wire with my 70. Would crank without firing, then 1 time out of 3 it would fire when let off of cranking.
 
nuttyprof said:
Not if it is a dual ballast resistor, you could have a good run side but a bad start side. could be switch, wiring/bulkhead connectors, or ballast. Check for power in start at coil, bulkhead, and switch. That will allow you to isolate the problem, you might even see a lose/bad connection while getting to those places to test.
Click to expand...

Ah those POS 4 pins... I never use them so I don't remember that. LOL

IIRC, The brown still goes hot to coil in start, BUT, the dumbass engineers decided to run the power through the ballast to the ignition module. So if the ballast was out on the brown/start side, the ingition module gets no power.

If you have a 4 pin, throw that POS out and install a 2 pin. :)
 
nuttyprof said:
Not if it is a dual ballast resistor, you could have a good run side but a bad start side. could be switch, wiring/bulkhead connectors, or ballast. Check for power in start at coil, bulkhead, and switch. That will allow you to isolate the problem, you might even see a lose/bad connection while getting to those places to test.
Click to expand...

Thank you. :D 1973 car (probably dual ballast)

So always start with the easiest thing to fix and work your way along as necessary.
Start at the coil positive side and see if there is power when cranking.
No matter how messed up the wiring or what anyone before has ever done to it, that is still the first place to check.
 
Thanks alot guys! I'll check it out when I get home, just had to go check out a toooo good to be true deal!
I just picked up a fresh 360 block, set of j heads with 2.02s, set of isky springs new in the box, scat 408 stroker kit with rings and bearings new in box, oil pump, new holley fuel pump and regulator new in box, oil pan, timing cover and like new performer intake for $1500.00 !!!
 
Bad Sport said:
The one and only time a ballast failed on me, I could start the engine and as long as I held the key just right it would stay running.

As soon as I let go of the key to the run position, it would die.
Click to expand...

this is correct. Other posts here about dual ballast resistors are not.
If the ignition module has been replaced within the last 10 to 20 years, it likely has only 4 of the 5 contact pins. This means its more modern circuitry can operate on full system voltage and one half of a dual resistor is no long used or required.
Then again, if the dual ballast is present, I suppose those unused wires and connections could cause a similar condition.
Good luck
 
RedFish said:
Then again, if the dual ballast is present, I suppose those unused wires and connections could cause a similar condition.
Good luck
Click to expand...

This is exactly why I recommended checking for power at the coil in the start position and working his way back through things until he finds it.
No matter what has been done, or what it has currently, this is still the quickest and easiest way to find the problem.

If it were me in this position, I would check at the coil and if no power was present I would jumper 12v direct to the coil and see if it starts.
This would tell me if the problem was a lack of power getting to the coil, or the electronics failing somewhere.

If it started and ran with the coil jumpered I would start working from the coil back through the ignition system to find where the loss was.
It may very well be the ignition switch or harness, but it could also be a ballast not allowing starting voltage to the coil. (especially if the jumper wire from "Start to Run" is not there) because the load on the battery to crank and run the ignition system at the same time has always been an issue with these system and why the ballast (if wired correctly) gives a full 12 volts the coil when starting, and drops the voltage back after starting.
 
Wouldn't it be nice to know which ballast he's working with?

73ValiantA.jpg
 
It's the dual ballast, I've got another dual and a single to try, I just have to find em!
With a test light I have a dim bulb at coil +
With the key in the on position and bright bulb during cranking
 
With key in start, probe the resistor terminal with brown wire and the other side of where the brown wire is connected. Both should be hot. Should be a DK Blue/yellow wire. If that isn't hot, the resistor is bad.
 
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