Carb / intake manifold spacer

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I have had better results lowering the under hood temps.
Remove the gasket/flap at the rear of the hood.
Do what you can to allow better airflow around the motor.
Some cars have rubber flaps over the a arms attached to the inner fenders, I remove them.
A bigger fan moves more hot air out from under the hood.
On Mustangs, it's popular to holesaw 2 or 3 2" or 2 1/2" holes in the inner fenders (unibody).
Coated or wrapped headers reduce underhood temps.
I live in Phoenix;AZ. where it gets to 116° in the summer, this is what we do.
TIMINATOR
First im going to try Improving the under hood airflow. The shaker assembly has a large sealing gasket around the base plate. Easy to remove it’s already out, opening the surrounding underhood gap will let large amounts hot of air up, around the base plate and out. So simple mad I didn’t think of it before. Gonna run the car a month or so like this before trying anything more invasive. Bet it works like a charm.
 

Rear flap gasket too.
TIMINATOR
I run a QF carb, heat shield under carb, return line back to tank (very similar to OMM’s setup) with an inline regulator, a mini starter good up to 18:1 compression, and an electric fuel pump. But I added a button in the car to operate the pump which primes the bowls before starting either cold or hot heat soak. The button operates the pump manually as long as I need it too. Then I pump it twice when cold or I crank it over when hot and it fires up on E10.

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So for about a month I've been driving the car without the sealer gasket around the shaker assembly. It’s made all the difference - sure and easy starts every time.

Turns out improving the airflow around the engine was sufficient to stop the fuel boiling. So glad it was that easy.

Thanks again FABO.
 
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