Carb Linkage

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MountainMan73

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Hey all! I caught a deal on a street demon carburetor for my 69 Dart. It’s a 318 engine. My question is does this linkage look ok? The old carb was was a Holley 650 that’s about all I know about it. It had been setting for about 15 years so from some recommendations on here I went with a street demon. I have no experience with carburetor so take it easy on me

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No. The transmission kickdown lever slot is supposed to be touching the linkage pin at idle so that the lever moves rearward when the throttle is depressed. You may have to take the bolt out of the slot. Full throttle at the carb should be full open at the transmission. I can't see all the linkage but a spring keeps the kick down linkage in contact with the pin.

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No. The transmission kickdown lever slot is supposed to be touching the linkage pin at idle so that the lever moves rearward when the throttle is depressed. You may have to take the bolt out of the slot. Full throttle at the carb should be full open at the transmission. I can't see all the linkage but a spring keeps the kick down linkage in contact with the pin.

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Thanks for the reply. I believe I have it backwards then. I was thinking the cable was for the transmisson kickdown. Like I stated I am a complete noob to this so looking to you experts for advice. The kickdown lever i have is threaded so all I think i need to do is adjust that. I wonder why I am missing a spring thats concerning I only had one.
 
Another thing is fourr barrel carbs like a taller cable height. Might check to see that you are getting full throttle at that low angle.
 
Thanks for the reply. I believe I have it backwards then. I was thinking the cable was for the transmisson kickdown. Like I stated I am a complete noob to this so looking to you experts for advice. The kickdown lever i have is threaded so all I think i need to do is adjust that. I wonder why I am missing a spring thats concerning I only had one.
The cable is the throttle. There should be a light (long) spring on the transmission linkage to keep the lever forward against the pin. I have seen some put a spring through the front of the slot and attach it to the throttle spring bracket if your linkage doesn't have a tab to attach the spring to in the rear. There are a few different designs.

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The cable is the throttle. There should be a light (long) spring on the transmission linkage to keep the lever forward against the pin. I have seen some put a spring through the front of the slot and attach it to the throttle spring bracket if your linkage doesn't have a tab to attach the spring to in the rear. There are a few different designs.

Amazing pictures! Ill have to find a new spring. Thank you so much for your help! I greatly appreciate it!


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You have the wrong throttle cable bracket and the top rod. For a 318 904 you need to find the linkage off of a 78-81 360 318 F-body police car. Here pictures of the engine in the car are 318 4 bbl F body linkage.

The linkage pictures are Orange 340 4bbl and blue is 318 2bbl. The main thing you need are three pieces. The orange 4 bbl cable bracket . The top rod to the carburetor rod off of a 340 0r 318 4bbl. and the 3rd is the short lever for the trans. With those three pieces you can make it work.

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Hey all! I caught a deal on a street demon carburetor for my 69 Dart. It’s a 318 engine. My question is does this linkage look ok? The old carb was was a Holley 650 that’s about all I know about it. It had been setting for about 15 years so from some recommendations on here I went with a street demon.
Thanks for the reply. I believe I have it backwards then. I was thinking the cable was for the transmisson kickdown. Like I stated I am a complete noob to this so looking to you experts for advice. The kickdown lever i have is threaded so all I think i need to do is adjust that. I wonder why I am missing a spring thats concerning I only had one.

Whoa guys. lets step back a little.
MountainMan73 got a 69 Dart with a 318 that's been sitting.
First thing I'll say is that whomever said what you need to do is get a new carb meant well, but what it may have really done is saved you from burning up the trans. I say that because that setup was not ready to run.

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The upper transmission linkage rod has been modified. See arrow.
I can't see what the rest of the linkage looks like.
There was a three rod linkage that was used for a number of years in A-bodies. Then there was two rod linkage used in later B-bodies and maybe eventually A-bodies and F bodies. Or maybe not in the smaller cars because of insufficient clearance.

The early three piece setups have an intermediate rod that can be adjusted.

Take a look and see what you have.
All of them will connect to the throttle pressure lever on the transmission.
At rest (idle) that lever should be all the way forward, as should the top rod with the slot.
At full throttle, that lever should be all the way back.

Before doing any of that, set the throttle cable up. The cable should allow the throttles to be completely closed at idle. Back the knurled slotted screw up (not removing it) and the throttle cable should have zero to a little slack, but no tension. Get someone to step on the throttle pedal, and see if the throttle is fully open. If you can open the throttles further by hand, then the cable needs to be tightened.

Then after the throttle cable has been set you can go onto the trasnmission linkage.

One possible issue with the throttle cable bracket is that it looks low. Probably originally for a 2bbl or single plane intake manifold where the carb sits lower. You can replace it, you can probably bend it up, and there's anotehr workaround I'm forgetting. But whichever method you choose the goal is have the cable and housing a little more in line with the attachment point on the carb.
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There's a 1971 Master Tech Conference that has illustrations and explanation about th eautomatic transmission linkage.

also avail at www.mymopar.com

As far as the Holley goes, sure after sitting 15 years replacing the gaskets and cleaning varnish from dried fuel is well advised. Really not too hard. First time can seem like a bunch of parts but once you've done it the next time will be easier. Also reading up on how it works will make it easier to recognize the parts by function. Mr Tech (Master Tech Conference) has you covered there as well.
 
Whoa guys. lets step back a little.
MountainMan73 got a 69 Dart with a 318 that's been sitting.
First thing I'll say is that whomever said what you need to do is get a new carb meant well, but what it may have really done is saved you from burning up the trans. I say that because that setup was not ready to run.

View attachment 1716454777
The upper transmission linkage rod has been modified. See arrow.
I can't see what the rest of the linkage looks like.
There was a three rod linkage that was used for a number of years in A-bodies. Then there was two rod linkage used in later B-bodies and maybe eventually A-bodies and F bodies. Or maybe not in the smaller cars because of insufficient clearance.

The early three piece setups have an intermediate rod that can be adjusted.

Take a look and see what you have.
All of them will connect to the throttle pressure lever on the transmission.
At rest (idle) that lever should be all the way forward, as should the top rod with the slot.
At full throttle, that lever should be all the way back.

Before doing any of that, set the throttle cable up. The cable should allow the throttles to be completely closed at idle. Back the knurled slotted screw up (not removing it) and the throttle cable should have zero to a little slack, but no tension. Get someone to step on the throttle pedal, and see if the throttle is fully open. If you can open the throttles further by hand, then the cable needs to be tightened.

Then after the throttle cable has been set you can go onto the trasnmission linkage.

One possible issue with the throttle cable bracket is that it looks low. Probably originally for a 2bbl or single plane intake manifold where the carb sits lower. You can replace it, you can probably bend it up, and there's anotehr workaround I'm forgetting. But whichever method you choose the goal is have the cable and housing a little more in line with the attachment point on the carb.
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There's a 1971 Master Tech Conference that has illustrations and explanation about th eautomatic transmission linkage.
[/URL]

also avail at www.mymopar.com

As far as the Holley goes, sure after sitting 15 years replacing the gaskets and cleaning varnish from dried fuel is well advised. Really not too hard. First time can seem like a bunch of parts but once you've done it the next time will be easier. Also reading up on how it works will make it easier to recognize the parts by function. Mr Tech (Master Tech Conference) has you covered there as well.
Thank you so much for your input. I thought to myself as well that the transmission linkage looked like it had been cut and re-welded. This car was restored when I was a kid and with the old carburetor it was a lot more in line than with this street demon when I took it off. I do have some issues with the transmission it’s leaking at the back where driveshaft connects, the bottom pan is leaking as well as couple small wet spot at the torque converter so needless to say that will have to be gone through as well. Is there a bracket that you might know of that would help lining the linkages up? I tried looking on the net but there so many different setups it’s hard to sift through.
 
I do have some issues with the transmission it’s leaking at the back where driveshaft connects, the bottom pan is leaking as well as couple small wet spot at the torque converter so needless to say that will have to be gone through as well.
Pretty typical. It will run with them. Just annoying. Also can cause the rubber 'motor mount' connected to the transmission to breakdown. As long as that's not broken its probably OK.
Is there a bracket that you might know of that would help lining the linkages up? I tried looking on the net but there so many different setups it’s hard to sift through.
Not I. Someone like Oldmanmopar may be able to pick out the sets because they've seen enough of them and know what they came off of. I'd probably either bend that one, or add an L-bracket on top. Use the L-bracket for the clamp can mount to. It doesn't look like I have any digital pictures from when I put the new engine in and switched to a dual plane.
 
Pretty typical. It will run with them. Just annoying. Also can cause the rubber 'motor mount' connected to the transmission to breakdown. As long as that's not broken its probably OK.

Not I. Someone like Oldmanmopar may be able to pick out the sets because they've seen enough of them and know what they came off of. I'd probably either bend that one, or add an L-bracket on top. Use the L-bracket for the clamp can mount to. It doesn't look like I have any digital pictures from when I put the new engine in and switched to a dual plane.
I may try and bend this one a little just to see. But from what I can tell there’s only the cable and that lockdown linkage. Doesn’t appear to be any other holes or anything where it would look like something else is suppose to be there.
 

You have the wrong throttle cable bracket and the top rod. For a 318 904 you need to find the linkage off of a 78-81 360 318 F-body police car. Here pictures of the engine in the car are 318 4 bbl F body linkage.

The linkage pictures are Orange 340 4bbl and blue is 318 2bbl. The main thing you need are three pieces. The orange 4 bbl cable bracket . The top rod to the carburetor rod off of a 340 0r 318 4bbl. and the 3rd is the short lever for the trans. With those three pieces you can make it work.

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where would I look to find the correct thing?
 
Also, to be correct, you should hook the throttle return spring in the middle between the accelerator cable clevis ears.
 
Be VERY careful with the cable out of line like that. I have had the repro cable (looks like you do too) where the metal “bell” on the end can come back at full throttle and hang up on the metal end of the cable sheath. Sticking wide open. Mine was MUCH better than yours. I just cut the “bell” back half its length. You should work the bracket.
 
Be VERY careful with the cable out of line like that. I have had the repro cable (looks like you do too) where the metal “bell” on the end can come back at full throttle and hang up on the metal end of the cable sheath. Sticking wide open. Mine was MUCH better than yours. I just cut the “bell” back half its length. You should work the bracket.
Thanks for the heads up!!! I’ll double check that. I did ended up bending the bracket and it’s a little bit straighter now!
 
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