Castrol synthetic or Valvoline?

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TrailBeast

TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
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After running the 5.9 Magnum for 9 months and finding it uses ZERO oil after 10,000 or so miles I am going to change to a full synthetic oil.
Thinking to go with a 10-30 full synthetic in the Castrol or Valvoline line.
I have run and trusted both brands for decades and was wondering if anyone has a preference between the two in synthetic form and why.

Also, I am a little apprehensive about going thinner like 5-30 or 0-30.
Would there be any good reason for oil that thin other than better heat transfer?

Switching from Castrol Dino 10-40 and I use the black Napa Wix/Mopar filters.

Thanks
 
Hey Trailbeast,

Did you see the thread where there was a link to a very interesting oil test results site? It's called 540 RAT tech facts. A lot of reading but very worth it.

Ok, maybe not quite the answer you are looking for but I hope it helps;
After reading it, I decided to try out the 5w30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability in the gold bottle. As soon as it stops raining here for long enough for the pavement to dry out, I'm gonna change my oil and try it for a few months, then I am going to give the 5W20 Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic blend (red bottle) a try for a few months. I don't really care about brands so much as I care about hard data.
 
How cold does it get where you live? I've been running Kendall 10 w40 synthetic blend all winter in my 360 just because I get it for $2.69 a quart. I used to run 10w30 Valvoline in my old daily driver dart when I had it. Alway liked it cuz it seemed to stay clean longer
 
IIRC, Castrol synthetic is not a true synthetic oil, made from mostly crude oil, recycles, and not natural gas. Something to do with how synthetics are produced, mixed, grouped, and labeled. Basically a bunch of lawyer stuff. I'm sure someone can chime in with more info
 
Ottmundr said:
Hey Trailbeast,

Did you see the thread where there was a link to a very interesting oil test results site? It's called 540 RAT tech facts. A lot of reading but very worth it.

Ok, maybe not quite the answer you are looking for but I hope it helps;
After reading it, I decided to try out the 5w30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability in the gold bottle. As soon as it stops raining here for long enough for the pavement to dry out, I'm gonna change my oil and try it for a few months, then I am going to give the 5W20 Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic blend (red bottle) a try for a few months. I don't really care about brands so much as I care about hard data.
Click to expand...

Thanks as I had not seen it, but will.
The only problem I have with the high mileage designations is that they swell rubber seals as part of their function, and I don't need or want that.



Dartish said:
How cold does it get where you live? I've been running Kendall 10 w40 synthetic blend all winter in my 360 just because I get it for $2.69 a quart. I used to run 10w30 Valvoline in my old daily driver dart when I had it. Alway liked it cuz it seemed to stay clean longer
Click to expand...

In the winter it can get down into the low teens, and summer over 100.
I wouldn't mind switching it up for season changes as that is about the normal intervals I change the oil anyway, but I was thinking one weight oil might handle both. (that's why I asked about the different low numbers in viscosity)
Valvoline and Castrol are the only two standard type oils I have ever used in my own stuff, but now I want to go to a full synthetic with the new magnum.
I can get the Castrol full synthetic for about 17 plus tax for the 5 quart jug.
I used plain old Castrol GTX 10-40 in my old motor because it was an original 70's 318 and used a half a quart or so every couple of weeks and was cheaper.
Now that I have this new motor that doesn't use any at all I figured it best to use the synthetic, since the motor was basically designed for newer oils wit the thinner rings and all.
 
The same 360 that I'm talking about in my head gasket thread ran strictly on full synthetic its whole life as soon as the initial break-in was done, and so far what I've seen is the bore wear is almost non-existent after 25,000 miles and cranking compression was even across all cylinders when I checked last summer. Haven't gotten the bottom end apart yet but I'm guessing it will look the same. Initially I ran Valvoline full synthetic (VR1 with extra Zinc) then a few years ago I switched to Brad Penn; I've always used 20W-50 or a blend of that and 10W-30 in the winter because my engine has wide bearing clearances and the oil pressure gets a little low at idle when the oil is up to full temp if I just run a 10W-30.

I've never tried Castrol synthetic but I did once run their conventional in my '93 Jeep Cherokee with the 4.0L I-6; it was a big mistake, before I reached 3000 miles it was blowing blue smoke out the tailpipe and pinging like a b!tch above 3000 RPM. Changed the oil back to the tried-and-true Valvoline full synthetic and added some Engine Restore in a can (blue stuff with the tiny Copper/Silver/Lead particles), the smoke and pinging stopped and I got all my power and gas mileage back. I have no interest in trying Castrol brand again unless some car I have calls for it specifically.
 
Hi,
Most manufactures seem to recommend 5-30 for engines of all sizes now days. When I bought my 99 Dakota with a 5.2, I did some net research and it seemed 5-30 was most widely used for magnums, likely due to manufacture recommendation. However, on the net there were many hesitant to run that, and they ran 10-30 instead. My perception from what I read is that they didn't seem to have real data reasons for not running 5-30. It seemed that their hesitance was based on more of a old school perception thing.

Travis
 
TrailBeast said:
After running the 5.9 Magnum for 9 months and finding it uses ZERO oil after 10,000 or so miles I am going to change to a full synthetic oil.
Thinking to go with a 10-30 full synthetic in the Castrol or Valvoline line.
I have run and trusted both brands for decades and was wondering if anyone has a preference between the two in synthetic form and why.

Also, I am a little apprehensive about going thinner like 5-30 or 0-30.
Would there be any good reason for oil that thin other than better heat transfer?

Switching from Castrol Dino 10-40 and I use the black Napa Wix/Mopar filters.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I wouldnt run a zero weight myself, Back kn the days of Mobil1 it lowered the idle oil pressure to ziltcho once its heated up real good, Everytime you come off the freeway of 5 min or better the idle oil psi will go from 35 let's say ...to 10-12 maybe and for 1 hp in the rpm range you actually drive in.jmo I stay no less than 20w myself.
when I want valvoline, I pay less and get it in a Napa bottle.
I have had really really good luck with para synthetic oils like Schaefer Supreme 7000, I put in every motor, customers and my own now for 18 years. I never lose cams after break in, not one of them has blown up, and lower oil temp/engine temps by average 4-5 degrees. You can run almost any oil you want in a motor and the difference between then can only be seen in the diff in lifespan miles, amount of wear seen in tear downs....or under the microscope where youll see less metal ppm in Schaefers after run than most any other oil.
 
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FWIW, about the only people who think that the Castrol synthetics are actually synthetic is Castrol, and the Supreme Court of the USA. Other than that, it is a mineral oil. Castrol paid a butt load of money to get the result it wanted.

That's all I wanted to point out.

For the nattering naybobs and flat earthers, I can send you the link where it is discussed by the single smartest tribologist I know.
 
And one last thing.


540rat was kicked off speed talk not because he had a different opinion but because several guys who are way smarter than 540rat is exposed his piss poor test methods.

You can't use his results if his testing protocol is suspect. And it is.

Go to speedtalk.com and do a search. He was exposed. Almost the same as Troy Patterson.

Caveat Emptor.
 
My last two oil refills (2 Liters total) where done with 0w20 synthetic.
Engine had some mixed 30 weight oil in it.

After a long drive with highway and city driving, my hot oil pressure still hovers at 30psi with 500-550rpm in drive, and close to 60psi when driving.

The 0w20 oil bottles read 'For hybrids' on the label. Since my Dart uses oil and burns propane, I find that classifies it as a hybrid nicely... :D
 
Ottmundr said:
Hey Trailbeast,

Did you see the thread where there was a link to a very interesting oil test results site? It's called 540 RAT tech facts. A lot of reading but very worth it
Click to expand...

From the link
"A Mechanical Engineer is clearly the most qualified Engineer to test motor oil that was formulated by Chemical Engineers, for wear protection capability between mechanical components under load."

I lol'd.
I think either petroleum engineers or R+D engineers would be far better equipped than an ME for analyzing engine wear.
 
jos51700 said:
From the link
"A Mechanical Engineer is clearly the most qualified Engineer to test motor oil that was formulated by Chemical Engineers, for wear protection capability between mechanical components under load."
Click to expand...

Wow got ego? Lol I'm an ME and that's a ridiculous statement that guy made, in a "Who the hell says that? Did he really say that?" kind of way
 
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I regret trying to help by posting a link that I thought would be useful to the original poster. Instead of anyone correcting me and providing more useful information to just answer the OP, all I am seeing is argument and mockery. Come on folks this ain't 4th grade. (Grade 4 to make the canucks feel included) :)
 
Ottmundr said:
I regret trying to help by posting a link that I thought would be useful to the original poster. Instead of anyone correcting me and providing more useful information to just answer the OP, all I am seeing is argument and mockery. Come on folks this ain't 4th grade. (Grade 4 to make the canucks feel included) :)
Click to expand...

My apologies that was directed solely to the author of the article not you or anyone else here...
 
Ottmundr said:
I regret trying to help by posting a link that I thought would be useful to the original poster. Instead of anyone correcting me and providing more useful information to just answer the OP, all I am seeing is argument and mockery. Come on folks this ain't 4th grade. (Grade 4 to make the canucks feel included) :)
Click to expand...


It's nice to keep the Canucks in your thoughts.

I only posted what I did because that guy has very suspect testing methods. I think it's fair to call him on that. Plus, he got booted because he couldn't back up his testing.
 
After fifty years of trying to figure out what oil is best, I came up with what I think is a good choice. Look to who has the most to use by thier choice of oils. Ford Motors can't afford to put anything but a very good oil in thier trucks. Thier reputation is on the line, and Billions of $$ is at stake! Make mine. Motorcraft blend, in the right wieght for my bearing clearances.
 
gregsdart said:
After fifty years of trying to figure out what oil is best, I came up with what I think is a good choice. Look to who has the most to use by thier choice of oils. Ford Motors can't afford to put anything but a very good oil in thier trucks. Thier reputation is on the line, and Billions of $$ is at stake! Make mine. Motorcraft blend, in the right wieght for my bearing clearances.
Click to expand...

I use similar logic for my replacement parts and engine oil.

Make mine Mobil1, aka factory fill on Viper and a few others.

That said, unless you're choosing Scamsoil or Lucas, I think all major oil brands are comparable, IF a person selects the correct oil for the application.
 
Going with either Mobile1 advanced 5/30 or Valvoline full synthetic 5/30.

Thanks all.
 
I run 5w30 in all my vehicles if they don't leak or burn less than a qt at 3000 miles. Otherwise I bump it to 10w30. If I have a leak tho I'm usually prone to fix that problem. I don't ride a Harley so my ride shouldn't leak oil lol. If I'm burning off oil tho then I have to find out why and fix it.
 
Phily said:
I run 5w30 in all my vehicles if they don't leak or burn less than a qt at 3000 miles. Otherwise I bump it to 10w30. If I have a leak tho I'm usually prone to fix that problem. I don't ride a Harley so my ride shouldn't leak oil lol. If I'm burning off oil tho then I have to find out why and fix it.
Click to expand...

Same here, and I have a very small seep on the drivers front fabbed cover that will get handled before the synthetic goes in.
Kinda wanted to do it this morning, put the syn in and take it for a drive but it's frickin raining.:D
My motor is still right on the full mark from when I put it in 9 months ago, so it's not a leaker or oil burner.
Might just have to settle for a rainy drive with the existing oil.
 
O and I've been running Mobil extended performance 5w30 synthetic and the filter to match it. I haven't taken any of the rides to 15 before changing oil. I have to find out what's causing my oil loss in my van soon but it will be a good test subject once it's not losing oil. I notice mpg decrease when it's low on oil or needs an oil change.
 
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