Center Console Proper Mounting

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Bronze Barracuda

Bronze Barracuda

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I everyone, I am just in the process of tearing my 68 Barracuda apart. Removing the windshield dash and rest of the interior. My car is currently a column shift but I happened across a complete console and shifter (except for mounting brackets and shifter numbers lens) for $150 CDN. So I have searched the forums for where to weld the brackets once I get them and where to cut the hole for the linkage to drop through. I am using the original 904 transmission if that makes any difference. My floor boards and center hump are in good condition so I am hoping I do not need to buy a pre-cut center hump. Also out of curiosity the sides of the console are different dimensions?? Whats that about? Thank you for any info. Cam.
 
I dont know about 68 but on 70+ the floor pan will have dimples for the grommet screw holes and a dimple to mark the center for the linkage hole. I use a knock out punch to make the big hole. The hole will be real close to the screw holes so its got to be centered perfectly.
The console has a cutout on driver side that gets covered with a flap of carpet. This is for linkage clearance.
I dont recall if there are locating marks for the console brackets. I usually get my linkage installed and make sure its vertical. Attach the brackets loose to the console then set it in place. Once its where it needs to be you can make some marks.
I think the console brackets are available new now.

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Alright thanks a lot. I ran outside to take a look. there are some dimples for sure and an area to the front left side of the center hump that looks like a cut out area. I will take some pics tomorrow when its not so darn dark out there. The 68's would definitely be a bit different, so I figure some pics from mine will help as well. I also have to grind off some of the old matting that seems to have grown into the metal..
 
Bronze Barracuda said:
Alright thanks a lot. I ran outside to take a look. there are some dimples for sure and an area to the front left side of the center hump that looks like a cut out area. I will take some pics tomorrow when its not so darn dark out there. The 68's would definitely be a bit different, so I figure some pics from mine will help as well. I also have to grind off some of the old matting that seems to have grown into the metal..
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I have pictures of my 68 Dart . I can post tomorrow.
 
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I was given a cardboard template for bracket placement on a 69. It should be the same for 68, no?
Got brackets from AMD.
I can try to find it if you need it.
 
Found a console install thread re- posted by SLOPAR72 last year. Having trouble attaching it.
 
You mentioned the console itself having different shaped sides. Thats because the trans tunnel is not in the center of the floor. So the console and brackets are offset to one side of it.
Back when I produced these brackets I also produced a locating template. Craft paper, easy to ship, was to be glued onto a more rigid cardboard or plywood, 12 inches wide and 60 inches long. The member @Challenger may still be reproducing that template. He bought my master a few years ago. This aint so critical for manual shifter but with automatic, if the console isn't pretty close to correct at that shifter stand, the sliding blind in the bezel wont live long. The bezel should have a pin underneath that locates it to the shifter stand but that pot metal pin is often broke and gone. OEM brackets and the AMD reproductions have slots for mounting screws. The screws tend to walk to those slots making it very difficult to shift/re position the console. If necessary you can cut larger holes in the storage compartment of console and put flat washers under those screw heads. Simply hammer adjust that forward bracket if necessary.
The factories hole to drop the torque shaft through is huge ( 4.5 inches maybe? ). Not many of us will have a hole saw that size. I did a little measuring, made another punch mark and cut that hole first with smaller hole saw ( 1.5 inch I think ). It didn't cut away the OEM punch mark. Then again at OEM punch mark with 2 inch hole saw which created a opening like a 2 orb snowman for lack of better description. It served just fine for myself and a few others.
 
RedFish is correct. Placement front to rear and left to right is critical. Its all about that shift gate being able to work freely through the entire range.

The torque shaft hole is not that big. I think its around 2.5 -3.0"
GreenLee knock out punch is your friend for this.

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I lined up shifter to floor pan hole first , made sure linkage was straight tac weld to keep from moving placed console on to get shift range correct. My console had holes in the storage compartment that lined up with bracket so that was easy . Its pretty straight foreward . I did a lot of console on and off to get things right. Main thing is to get shifter and linkage set first and shift without binding. tac brackets in place , if everythings ok weld them in set console have fun.

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Like Zigs said, start with the shifter with linkage connected. Set shifter so linkage is perpendicular. The vertical part of the linkage should be straight. Once the shifter is in place everything else should fall into place.
Small tack welds on everything until you are happy with the fit. Makes it easier if you have to do any final adjustments.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Like Zigs said, start with the shifter with linkage connected. Set shifter so linkage is perpendicular. The vertical part of the linkage should be straight. Once the shifter is in place everything else should fall into place.
Small tack welds on everything until you are happy with the fit. Makes it easier if you have to do any final adjustments.
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Thats the way I did mine...starting with the "linkage pole"(the post that goes through the floor) make sure the shifter and linkage are positioned properly...attach the brackets to the console itself, position and tack-weld (remove console carpetting)....then the other stuff falls into place. You'll also need the wiring for the console shift light and back-up switch and cig. lighter (if required), and the trans bracket for the torque shaft.
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I didn't use my cigarette lighter , that's where the switch to my electric dumps go , you can slide the door shut and it can't be seen.
 
The previous owner of mine took the easy way out & put in a B&M auto shifter in the console.
 
Joey4speed said:
I was given a cardboard template for bracket placement on a 69. It should be the same for 68, no?
Got brackets from AMD.
I can try to find it if you need it.[/QUOTE
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Joey4speed said:
I was given a cardboard template for bracket placement on a 69. It should be the same for 68, no?
Got brackets from AMD.
I can try to find it if you need it.
Click to expand...
Did the template come from AMD? I am thinking of buying my brackets from them.
 
Wow thanks for all the great pictures and help everyone. Awesome responses.
I will take pictures of mine as I do it and post more pictures on this thread as I go.
:thumbsup:
 
MoparMike1974 said:
RedFish is correct. Placement front to rear and left to right is critical. Its all about that shift gate being able to work freely through the entire range.

The torque shaft hole is not that big. I think its around 2.5 -3.0"
GreenLee knock out punch is your friend for this.

View attachment 1715444045
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OK I watched a video on a GreenLee punch, cool tool.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Like Zigs said, start with the shifter with linkage connected. Set shifter so linkage is perpendicular. The vertical part of the linkage should be straight. Once the shifter is in place everything else should fall into place.
Small tack welds on everything until you are happy with the fit. Makes it easier if you have to do any final adjustments.
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For sure. Thanks
 
65Val said:
Thats the way I did mine...starting with the "linkage pole"(the post that goes through the floor) make sure the shifter and linkage are positioned properly...attach the brackets to the console itself, position and tack-weld (remove console carpetting)....then the other stuff falls into place. You'll also need the wiring for the console shift light and back-up switch and cig. lighter (if required), and the trans bracket for the torque shaft.
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OK great. Lots of info I'll be coming back to this thread frequently
 
Template was mailed from a member last year, forget who at the moment. Ill look for it. Let you know.
 
Any commercial electrician should have access to the larger Greenlee punches. They use them to pop holes in panels for conduit.
 
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