Centerforce Dual Friction (Diaphragm Style) Clutch Kits

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1badfish67

1badfish67

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Does anyone have any personal experience good/bad with these clutches? I'm just looking/researching right now for a clutch design that can hold a possible 400 to 435Hp without requiring the Hulks leg thighs/calf's to push the pedal. The horse power is a guestimate at this point on new 340 SB build. Not sure how many HP it may make. Plan is to have new build at least ran on engine dyno. Haven't torn into the engine yet but it was running when I bought the car. No odd sounds coming from the engine at that time like rod/main knock etc. Ran it up to about 2500 rpm in neutral listening for noises, nothing and idled smooth. On engine stand now.

Will mainly be a street ride, at least that is the original intentions. Don't really plan to take to track to see how it would run but never say never, right.

Here is what I have for new build so far.

1971 340cid + 0.030" (Saw stamp on piston tops with bore scope). Have not fully identified the existing pistons yet.
New Promaxx 171 aluminum heads 65cc (Engine has a set of J heads on it right now)
PRW roller tip rockers (Stock rocker system on it right now)
Edelbrock RPM Airgap intake (Original iron intake on it right now)
New Holly 770 Street Avenger (Edelbrock 1406 on it now)
A833 tranny
3.23:1 Sure Grip (May switch to a 3.55:1 if the existing ratio doesn't cruise town very friendly)
Borg and Beck pressure plate

Additional parts later:

New COMP XE274H cam (Still researching as to final decision)
Full length headers (Have not made a choice on these yet.
 
Center Force DF will work just fine for you. I have one in my Duster with a 408 at around 480 hp. Been beating on it for several years now with no problems.
 
This is in my 6bbl Roadrunner, and it has no problem with my spirited driving style

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Early 90s I was doing truck pulls and a stock Napa clutch wouldn't last or hold more than a couple pulls. Ram recommend their ceramic four puck disc and PP, even though I told them it was a daily driver, had I known then what I know now. In the back of one of the magazines was a little 1"x1" advertisement for CF clutches, I called they listened and gave me the best sales pitch ever. Buy it and if it doesn't last the the next pulling season or doesn't work well on the street for you call and ask for (I don't remember the name) I'll return your money when you return the PP and clutch. I pulled that truck with that clutch and a mild 440 two three times a year. 2000 or 2001 I was pulling my brothers truck to the car wash on a tow bar. The clutch slipped as I was leaving a stop sign and I was like WTF. I had punished that clutch for so long so so many pulls, wheeling adventures, drag races and daily driving I had just forgotten about clutch issues completely. It's the only clutch I run now.. I have one in my 72 340 Duster with 422 ci small block one in my 72 long bed 1 ton and one going in my nephew's truck with a healthy 440. CF is the only clutch I run now granted there are others that are likely as good or better but they've been great for me so far.
 
Thanks for sharing the experience, really appreciate it.

Couple of side questions.
Would a OEM flywheel suffice or need a steel aftermarket?
Would I need to go to a scatter shield and block plate setup for this Hp level or should the stock aluminum bell housing work fine?

I would rather not get into a lot of parts changing/upgrading if it's not necessary but if it definitely is necessary I will do it.

Information on Airgap intake and XE274H cam indicate up around 6000-6500 at the top end rpm. I ran a SBC some 30+ years ago with a Comp 280H cam, LT1 intake, 750 Holley, headers and 4spd tranny. It saw 6500 rpm on multiple occasions and it was on stock flywheel/cast iron bell housing. The SBC estimated around 375 Hp and it didn't have a lockup/limited slip type diff. It was my daily driver as a teenager at the time. Ran that same engine/clutch combo for about 15years with no issues until got married and the Nova got sold.

This is first Mopar build. Looking to gain all information/insight available from folks here on FABO before I shell out cash that could be better spent on other parts.

Thanks again
 
I run the stock flywheel, and the stock aluminum bellhousing. No problems with either.
 
I suggest have your flywheel resurfaced to the finish recommended by the clutch manufacturer so you have a nice clean and level surface to match your clutch.
 
My suggestion is arp bolts for flywheel and pressure plate (and heads..) and use arp torque specs...
For your intensions a dyno is a complete waste of money... Others are guaranteed to argue...
But my-2...
 
Just discussing this with a buddy of mine, He's been running the same Centerforce for over 20yrs., it yanks the front tires at the track with the MT Sportsmans on the back. He's totally satisfied with it. I pulled it up on the alignment rack a few years ago, nice & smooth, no chatter or noises. He does have a Lakewood plate & housing on it for safety's sake, but if You're not running slicks or the like, You should be fine.
 
My experience with Centerforce DF clutch is very harsh engagement, very hard on the driveline parts, and will break parts at high rpm launches with bias slicks. The cure was to take out the DF disc and put in a rag disc (organic disc for those who don't know the rag disc term) to get rid of the hard hit and soften up the hit upon engagement. A little slip in the clutch goes a long way to quicker ETs and saving the driveline.
 
j par said:
My suggestion is arp bolts for flywheel and pressure plate (and heads..) and use arp torque specs...
For your intensions a dyno is a complete waste of money... Others are guaranteed to argue...
But my-2...
Click to expand...
Yes, plan is to go with ARP for the rod, mains and ARP studs for the block/heads. Haven't thought about ARP for the pressure plate and flywheel bolts but will consider ARP.

The dyno was just a thought to get a number for the horsepower the engine makes at the flywheel and to size the holding power of the clutch/drive-train system.
 
19DART66 said:
My experience with Centerforce DF clutch is very harsh engagement, very hard on the driveline parts, and will break parts at high rpm launches with bias slicks. The cure was to take out the DF disc and put in a rag disc (organic disc for those who don't know the rag disc term) to get rid of the hard hit and soften up the hit upon engagement. A little slip in the clutch goes a long way to quicker ETs and saving the driveline.
Click to expand...
Anyone else skipping on the CF dual friction clutch disc and using different material as 19DART66 mentions?
 
When I was shopping clutches for my '69 Valiant (.586" solid roller W2), I spoke with someone at RAM. The disc I was looking at was a carbon metallic with their poly-coil springs. I was looking at a 3,600lb Borg & Beck and he suggested that for street use, I go a little friendlier on the clamp load. Turned out I already had a 2,500-ish McLeod on the shelf, so I used that. The combo is very street-friendly in the very-little it's been driven and it grabs well. No complaints, but I haven't had it to the strip yet.

I have a CF dual-friction disc for a different project, but I prefer the feel of a B&B or Long-style pressure plate. Diaphragms seem mushy to me. It's totally a personal preference. A good friend has a CF in a 540RWHP Charger and has had no problems. It's been in there for 20 years, so he must like it.
 
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Scatter shields are never a bad idea. I have a Centerforce ll clutch and flywheel. Good clutch, I have a little start out chatter, hard spots on flywheel from previous owner, I need to resurface it. Lose your overcenter spring with this set up per mfr instructions. You will not be disappointed with this clutch.
 
Thanks everyone for the insight. I will probably give a call to Centerforce, RAM, Mcleod and possibly a few others and visit with them as well.
 
1badfish67 said:
Thanks everyone for the insight. I will probably give a call to Centerforce, RAM, Mcleod and possibly a few others and visit with them as well.
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i too am looking to buy a diaphragm clutch i've decided on either the mcleod super street pro for 375 or the centerforce dual friction which sells for a little over 500. doe's anybody know why the differance in price they are both middle rated 400 to 500 hp street clutches. i have no experiance with either one. have you decided on a clutch yet?
 
No sir. Have not decided on which clutch pac I am going to use. Hearing different stories about the Center Force system with those centrifugal weights/blocks.
Am hearing more positive feedback than negative so far.
Will update here once I have made decision. Have a call to make to a buddy down in Abeline Tx that has a tube chassis truck he is running on the track and has had street rods as well. Gonna pick his brain a little this week and get his take on it.
 
I have a CF in my Duster, it's been in there at least 10 years now, I do not really like it, its like a light switch, either on or off.

I used a Ram muscle car series in my truck and like it alot better.

Currently before long I am putting my Challenger together, and will use a RAM clutch in it.
 
I've have ran CF clutches since they first came out. I have one in my 73 W200 that when totally loaded up with a pop up camper, 64 gal of fuel, gear and a John boat on top it weighted around 8500#. I would hammer the hell out it four wheeling. Still holding strong after over 30 years. Run them in my muscle cars too and have never had a failure and I'm fairly hard on them. I've ran several Rams too but I like the CF better.
On the cars that I've built with over 600HP I ran the McLeod twin disc. That is an awesome clutch.
 
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