Cheapest place for torsion bar removal tool/clamp?

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MRGTX

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I’m probably going to need this tool for one job. I’d like to find an option that’s not $40+...

Any suggestions welcome!
 
I have never needed one.....worst case, I used a good sized pair of vise grips and a hammer to break them loose. Just lucky I guess?

sb
 
I made one out of 3 u-bolts and a piece of scrap angle iron. Snugged the u-bolts and tapped the angle iron with a hammer. Knocked the loose easy.
 
I have never needed one.....worst case, I used a good sized pair of vise grips and a hammer to break them loose. Just lucky I guess?

sb

NEVER EVER use vise grips or other tools that gouge up the springs!!!

You can wedge a scrap of 2x4 up in the suspension and use a pry bar to push the TB to the rear after removing the LCA lower pivot nut. Works great.
 
Remove the LCA lower pivot nut and use a ball joint removal tool to knock the whole assembly loose and slightly to the rear.Don't forget to remove the rear clip in the bar.
 
Getting ready to remove a kmember myself and having never done it I will opt for the tool. Who knows, maybe it will get used a couple of times. I always find that the right tool for the job always works in my favor.....

JW
 
Years ago I bought from Miller tools the OEM torsion bar removal tool. I bet I have used it at least a dozen times over the years - well worth what I paid for it.
 
NEVER EVER use vise grips or other tools that gouge up the springs!!!

You can wedge a scrap of 2x4 up in the suspension and use a pry bar to push the TB to the rear after removing the LCA lower pivot nut. Works great.

No comment on the 2x4, but agree 100% on not using vice grips. Not very wise.
Find or build the correct tool.
 
It’s crude as hell.... but when I was young I made one out of a 2x4. I ripped it and used two U bolts from the hardware store. I clamped the hell out of it and beat the bars out. Actually came out pretty easy. The Wood didn’t put a scratch on the bars. I have seen a bar broke. Where Channel locks or whatever put a stress riser in it. It was pretty neat to see how one scratch started the break.
 
I used vise grips with a section of bicycle tire around the bar and that worked great.
Vise grips never touched the bar.
 
Mancini has them, brought one to do on mine, torsion bars came out just using my hands didn't even need the tool.
 
jacked up right side of my 76 duster /6 car and left side torsion bar snapped into...wheres best place to get a set of stock /6 bars? figured thay come as a set??
 
Were are you located if your anywhere near me I would lend you my tool it’s about 20 years old and beat to hell but it makes removing stuck bars real easy.
 
This is one of my favorite "improvised" special tools! Go to your local bike shop and get a similar BMX bicycle gooseneck!

I've had this one for at least 20 years!




DSC_0979.JPG
 
I've used Vise grips for probably 20 plus years on my cars. Never a problem. A couple years ago a tool showed up on here so I bought it. Used it when I did the Cuda. it does make life a lot easier.
 
Torsion bar removal tools are a complete waste of money.

Save your money. Remove the LCA pivot nut, then pry the LCA backward until the rear torsion bar hex drops out of the torsion bar anchor. Then use a dead blow hammer to knock the LCA off the torsion bar.

I’ve never needed to use a torsion bar tool. And, just FYI, the torsion bar tools out there right now won’t work well, if at all, on torsion bars larger than 1” in diameter.
 
This is one of my favorite "improvised" special tools! Go to your local bike shop and get a similar BMX bicycle gooseneck!

I've had this one for at least 20 years!
View attachment 1715132930
My wife laughed at me when i took on off a trashed bike from the dump about two years ago when i was doing my suspension. She asked why i didnt by the right tool,told her i needed more beer money
 
My thinkin is if you think 40 bucks for a good tool is too much, then maybe you should be collecting Hot Wheels.
 
Torsion bar removal tools are a complete waste of money.

Save your money. Remove the LCA pivot nut, then pry the LCA backward until the rear torsion bar hex drops out of the torsion bar anchor. Then use a dead blow hammer to knock the LCA off the torsion bar.

I’ve never needed to use a torsion bar tool. And, just FYI, the torsion bar tools out there right now won’t work well, if at all, on torsion bars larger than 1” in diameter.

I have needed one several times. Down here, it stays pretty humid all the time. Where two pieces of metal mate for long periods, things get nasty. I've tried your method a few times that it did not work. I was glad I had the right tool. 40 bucks is not a waste, it's pretty reasonable. But then, I love tools so I might be a little biased.
 
I have needed one several times. Down here, it stays pretty humid all the time. Where two pieces of metal mate for long periods, things get nasty. I've tried your method a few times that it did not work. I was glad I had the right tool. 40 bucks is not a waste, it's pretty reasonable. But then, I love tools so I might be a little biased.

My Challenger was sold in Utah and eventually came to me in California after having been in Florida for some. It needed most of the floor, both rear frame rails, part of the left front rail, part of the torsion bar crossmember, both quarters, and half of the hardtop structure replaced due to rust. The original bars were installed when I replaced them with 1.12” bars.

If you can get it out with one of those cute little clamp tools, you can get it out with the LCA.
 
I used vise grips with a section of bicycle tire around the bar and that worked great.
Vise grips never touched the bar.


I'm with TrailBeast on this one, I have pieces of old conveyor belt about 1/4" thick, rap a piece around the bar clamp vice grips on it, after loosening the LCA smack it and out it comes.
 
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