checking for cracked head or bad head gasket..

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

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what are ways besides a leak down test that I can do to check for water getting in my oil...I just placed the new gaskets on and either I keep doing it wrong or I have something else wrong..this time I have what looks to be water in my oil, I cant really tell because the oil is yellowish its the VR1 and has like a faded yellow tint to it which I think is water...Im hoping that its not a cracked head or head gasket.. Im hoping Im just shitty at this intake gasket thing.

would a compression test or pressure testing the radiator work?
 
ok and Im also wondering if using the wrong head gaskets would cause this...I used the eddy version of the fel pro 1008
 
well well well I think I found the problem and feel like shooting someone! read below
from MAD DART "Per HUGHES and for what that is worth, Tim over there says they have running engines using the 519SD and that the 1008 gasket will not fit.

Yes the gasket will need to magnum based.........kind of gets me pissed a bit. Don at 4secondsflat is helping me to see if Cometic will change out their die program for the MINOR changes that would need to take place.

I do have the 519SD gasket and the Cometic side by side. There is only a minor difference in the areas posted earlier. Good thing I found this out or I would have had a MAJOR leak right at break in of the engine. That would have sucked!!

If need be I will run the Felpro, just didnt want to if I had a choice is all.

Also after working on the Magnum heads I would not ever go this route again......just my opinion!"

"The water jackets on the intake side between 1&3 and 5&7 on the intake side will not seal off. The cometic gasket embossing is not large enough to seal this area........It is the same on the opposite side of the motor same place.

It WOULD FOR SURE leak like a stuck pig if I would not have caught it.......

The Felpro's have a blue seal that goes right around the water jackets.
They would work but I just dont trust them. I have friends that push them out on a regular basis."
 
but wait I read later on in that mess he had trying to figure things out and then he says that they should work, so im trying to figure all this dam mess out.. Im going to compression test the cylinders and pressure test the cooling system.!!!
 
will do and I just looked at pics of the 1008 that I used and the 9898 that hugues recc. that I use with these heads and everything looks the same and I think that if I had water leaking from the head I would have white smoke no?
 
and throttle wide open, undo the coil wire tho plz

see the idea is when you pressure test the cooling system you want to have the plugs out so that when/if the head gasket is blown into the cylinder, the pressure can
escape and therefore show up on the test as a leak/lose of pressure.
otherwise the rings can hold it in.
 
ahhh now I get it cool thanks and does anyone have a picture of what oil would look like with water in it on a dipstick?
 
see the idea is when you pressure test the cooling system you want to have the plugs out so that when/if the head gasket is blown into the cylinder, the pressure can
escape and therefore show up on the test as a leak/lose of pressure.
otherwise the rings can hold it in.

Exactly. I chased a seep years ago and had trouble finding it. An old timer asked if I removed the spark plugs to do the test and I hadn't. I removed them, redid the test and solved the problem. The result was the compression that was in the cylinder wasn't allowing the seep to show up.

It could also help to tell what side of the engine the leak if any is located.
 
and throttle wide open, undo the coil wire tho plz


I wouldn't want you working on my car if you have no more common sense to make a less than intelligent reply than this. 19 years old and .................................

The least intelligent person I know is a very well educated person.
 
If you have water in the oil it'll look milky.

the oil isnt really black its yellow like when i put it in because I just put it in...so i cant really tell....it looks more like a fadded yellow now then a shiney yellow...Im wondering if because it sat for a while it has condensation and I need to run it for awhile to make it go away
 
I would drain the oil in a clean pan and take a closer look at it. I have seen some condensation happen in the dip stick tube and the oil be clear when it was drained. Let the oil set for a while and look at it again.
Since you haven't ran the engine much since the oil change you may be seeing the beginning of the oil and water mixing.
Here is about as close as comparision to color as I can think of. If you ever eat a rootbeer and vanilla ice cream float the oil mixed with water will look about the color of the foam.
 
Ya see my oil is yellow because i just put it in and i cant really tell
 
If your oil is yeller and not milky beige,your good to go.Still I would drain it if you have the slightest hint of water.My 2 cents(water is not good for bearings)
 
here are someof the best pics I could get with my phone, I think they say it all :/ also I might have a leaking pcv valve if that means anything..and when I took the radiator cap off, I saw no bubbles, but still will test it, also these pics where right after I warmed the car up

photo-1.jpg


photo33.jpg
 
I think what I can do is drain it all in a clean bucket and check it out, if its good Ill just put it back in. If not Ill leave it out
 
Samer here, I dont see a problem.
I think the headgasket problem was only for the cometics and that they are being changed, or have been changed.

What is the supposed difference where a 1008 gasket wouldnt work?

Anyone have a pictorial explanation?

Brian at IMM told me about the cometic issue, but that's all I know of.
 
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