Choke power?

[Mojoe9955]

I just bought this car and it has a few little things wrong or missing that are keeping it from running smoothly. Slowly but surely though, thanks to you guys at A Bodies only, I'm getting it together. The electric choke was hooked directly to the distributor, which generally is not a good place to get power. I know it should be connected to a switched source. I'm not really looking to wrench my neck going under the dash to connect into the fuse box right now. I've seen where it can be wired to the alternator with a relay...maybe later.
My question is to make it easy for now, can I go to the ballast resistor and if so which side?

 

[RustyRatRod]

You would go to the ignition switch (12v) side of the ballast, but I would not. That's the same as taking it from the ignition system, which you don't want to do. I never run a choke, so I'm no help. Maybe Del (@67Dart273) will chime in with an idea.

 

[qkcuda]

I used the 12v side of the ballast resistor for mine. It works fine. It was easy to see which side was which with a simple test light.

 

[Rmoore]

I’m asking cause I don’t understand the difference between the ignition distributor hook up , verse the better ignition ballast ? Both are in the ignition circuit right ?

 

[67Dart273]

There is only one source of switched power under the hood, and that is the ignition "run" line which hooks to the ballast resistor, coming out of the bulkhead. That line (depending on year) branches off and feeds the ballast, the VR "IGN" terminal, the blue alternator field, the choke, and smog doo dads some years.

THAT LINE CAN SUFFER voltage drop because of the terminals in the circuit path, as well as right in the ignition switch contacts. THAT voltage crop can cause OVER charging (over voltage).

 

[Rmoore]

There is only one source of switched power under the hood, and that is the ignition "run" line which hooks to the ballast resistor, coming out of the bulkhead. That line (depending on year) branches off and feeds the ballast, the VR "IGN" terminal, the blue alternator field, the choke, and smog doo dads some years.

THAT LINE CAN SUFFER voltage drop because of the terminals in the circuit path, as well as right in the ignition switch contacts. THAT voltage crop can cause OVER charging (over voltage).

So , should not matter on the choke hook up at the distributor or ballast ?

 

[RustyRatRod]

There is only one source of switched power under the hood, and that is the ignition "run" line which hooks to the ballast resistor, coming out of the bulkhead. That line (depending on year) branches off and feeds the ballast, the VR "IGN" terminal, the blue alternator field, the choke, and smog doo dads some years.

THAT LINE CAN SUFFER voltage drop because of the terminals in the circuit path, as well as right in the ignition switch contacts. THAT voltage crop can cause OVER charging (over voltage).

Just a question, Del. Would coming off the ignition run side of the ballast and then going to a relay help any?

 

[Frank Mopar]

I would wire it open.

 

[qkcuda]

There is only one source of switched power under the hood, and that is the ignition "run" line which hooks to the ballast resistor, coming out of the bulkhead. That line (depending on year) branches off and feeds the ballast, the VR "IGN" terminal, the blue alternator field, the choke, and smog doo dads some years.

THAT LINE CAN SUFFER voltage drop because of the terminals in the circuit path, as well as right in the ignition switch contacts. THAT voltage crop can cause OVER charging (over voltage).

I did have an issue with my car overcharging on the way to Carlisle, after an hour or so on the highway. It had a brand new solid state voltage regulator. I changed it out for an original unit I found there and it was fine on the trip back. Could the choke connection have caused that?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would wire it open.

I tend to agree. I cannot remember a vehicle I've had where I ever hooked the choke up. Although I do live in Georgia. Even still, in under 20 degree weather, I've never had the first issue.

 

[toolmanmike]

Just a question, Del. Would coming off the ignition run side of the ballast and then going to a relay help any?

Probably the right way to do it. I should measure the amp draw on the choke heater sometime. Question, does it shut off when the choke goes open or does it continue drawing current? Asking for a friend. LOL

 

[RustyRatRod]

Probably the right way to do it. I should measure the amp draw on the choke heater sometime. Question, does it shut off when the choke goes open or does it continue drawing current? Asking for a friend. LOL

I don't know. That's something I've always wondered. I know Chrysler calls it a "choke timer" or "choke controller" so to me that implies maybe it doesn't draw the whole time. But as I said, I've never run a choke, so hell if I know. LOL
I guess if I had something STONE stock I might would hook the choke up. But anything "above" stock really runs rich enough to not need one.

 

[toolmanmike]

I don't know. That's something I've always wondered. I know Chrysler calls it a "choke timer" or "choke controller" so to me that implies maybe it doesn't draw the whole time. But as I said, I've never run a choke, so hell if I know. LOL
I guess if I had something STONE stock I might would hook the choke up. But anything "above" stock really runs rich enough to not need one.

A few pumps of the double pumper and away you go!

 

[RustyRatRod]

A few pumps of the double pumper and away you go!

Indeed, yes. Although I have a VS on the slant 6, but it's still idling in less than 30 seconds. Why in the WORLD would I need to speed THAT up? lol

 

[Mike69cuda]

In the frigid Midwest in the winter, a choke is really nice if you are going to drive in the cold. I have always hooked up my electric choke to the 12v ignition feed before ballast resistor.

 

[toolmanmike]

In the frigid Midwest in the winter, a choke is really nice if you are going to drive in the cold. I have always hooked up my electric choke to the 12v ignition feed before ballast resistor.

Me too, never an issue.

 

[Dave999]

you used to be able to replace the electronic module with a pull type mechanical set up and a big pull actuator in the dash said choke and twist to lock i think it just involved removing the electric module and sticking solid core pull cable into a hole in the end of the lever beneath, wire with a kinked end. The carb may not have the cable clamp on it. but the boss for it will probably be cast in. this kinda thing Classic Car Universal Choke Cable Pull Twist & Lock Type 60" Long mini kit car | eBay i'm sure you could buy a more USA centric design locally. I ran an electronic choke off the 12 volt end of the ballast for a while with no noticable detriment. I think the "Do Not Do This" stems somewhat from the documentatioin you got with a brand new Edelbrock carb. the instructions used to have that warning but no explanation. checking PDFs on their website now, i can't find it, it just says keyed 12 volts, Not coil + (its a 12 volt choke and coil + is 8 volts), Not Alternator (probably has an impact on chargeing) .
I may have dreamt it... but it is reiterated whenever this subject is dicussed. I agree with the logic of not doing it this way, idealy you would use your spare fuse slot on the switched side of the fuse box, (saves you a load of melting wires and bulkhead connector if the choke feed leans then shorts out on hot engine for long enough) which you will probably have if you don't have aircon and loads of luxury options, or are lacking a radio depends on year i think.

Dave

 

[67Dart273]

So , should not matter on the choke hook up at the distributor or ballast ?

I don't know what you mean "distributor". No you do not connect it to the distributor. ONE END of the ballast is "the key." 12V. or 14V to be more accurate when running. THAT is the end of the ballast to which the choke is powered. The OPPOSITE end of the ballast goes to the COIL + When the system is running at nominal 14V, the coil "sees" varying voltage of about 10-12V. the current goes through the ballast and DROPS voltage at the coil. YOU DO NOT want to hook ANY loads to EITHER the coil+ or the coil -. The ONLY additional connections to the coil is 1---a radio supression cap on the coil + and 2-- a tach wire if equipped on the coil -

 

[hotrod swinger]

I have my entire ignition circuit on a relay under the hood. My choke is connected to the ignition circuit at the factory location. The blue wire that runs along the valve cover to the alternator is where the factory choke assist was located.

 

[Mojoe9955]

I'm usually not a choke guy. I don't mind sitting for a few minutes with my foot on the pedal waiting for the motor to warm up. This car came with a brand new 1406 Eddie carb with an electric choke, it wasn't adjusted or wired properly so I moved it to the resistor and adjusted the heater to the middle and it's working now.