Cleanup turns to mess up. Need some help troubleshooting.

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Well, the gas fouling will go away after it sets for several hours. Clean them by all means, but you need to stop the gas pouring in. Do more than tapping the carb; pull out the needle and seat and clean it. It does not require hardly any disassembling.

Look at item 52 in the illustration on page 3 of the Carter BBD manual here:
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Free-Carburetor-Manuals_ep_274.html
 
Im gping to look through that and see what i cant get accomplished now that im headed home. Jave to get aomething done tonight because now i get duty tomorrow on base from 0600-1800. Ill post up progress or failures later.
 
That should be just a vent I believe. In your first picture it's just an open connection. The line just below that with the filter in it goes to the fuel pump.

This makes no sense to me...there are no vent lines on the carb are there?

I know mine is a few years older but do me a favor and look down the pasenge side of the block to see if there is a nipple on the fuel pump where that hose should go
 
This makes no sense to me...there are no vent lines on the carb are there?

I know mine is a few years older but do me a favor and look down the pasenge side of the block to see if there is a nipple on the fuel pump where that hose should go

There is hard line going from the pump to the filter and then from the filter to the carb. The vent line in the first picture is from the vapor cannister behind the right front headlight to the carb.

From the picture it looks like the needle portion is right where the fuel comes into the side of the carb from the fuel filter.
 
I pulled it apart and it seemed like the bowl level got low and one side of the floats was stuck in the down position. I adjusted the floats and the nozzle but ended up breaking that fuel line from the filter to the carb when reinstalling so we will see if I fixed it tomorrow night.
 
Slow down here. You need to actually diagnose and stop assuming.

First things first. Do you have a factory service manual? If not, you can download one for free right on this site.

Secondly, don't assume anything. You need to actually diagnose. Does the tank have gas? Verify it, even if you think it does.

Third. Have you verified the carburetor is squirting fuel into the venture? Look into the carburetor throat and operate the throttle linkage to verify.

Fourth. Did you check for spark? Don't assume it's firing the plugs. Check to verify that it is. Remove a plug wire, place a screwdriver in the end to contact the terminal and hold close to ground while spinning the engine. Do you have a strong spark?

Lastly, an engine needs FOUR things in order to run. Air, fuel, spark and they all need to be there at the right time. Bring the balancer up to TDC on #1 cylinder and verify the rotor is pointing to #1 in the distributor cap.

All of these are basic things to check for, but you will find the problem if you go over them as outlined. Doing it with the aid of a factory service manual assures you will actually learn something, rather than simply going through the motions. .
 
I have a factory service manual. I filled the tank completely just before startinf the break down and repaint. I operated the throttle linkage and saw it squirting fuel into the center of the carb. I had verified timing at 3 degrees btdc juat before starting this all as well as replaced the plugs/wires/cap and rotor. Eveything ran fine juat before teardown. It also fired right back up and ran fine for about 20 secs after i put everything back together.
 
Should i go back and disconnect all the grounding cables/clean the surfaces and then see if maybe its not grounded well enough anymore? Dont know if its as big an issues on these motors.

I know from experience, if it is not grounded to the firewall it will not crank.
 
I'm going to check all the ground connections today after I get off duty and get a new fuel line. I already changed the plugs for ones not covered in fuel, and put the carb all back together and have it all reconnected properly. I'm going to add a little fuel to the bowls and then turn her over and see what happens. If the problem persists then I will most likely rebuild the carb, and start again.
 
Rebuilding the carb sound like a zebra'ing the problem.

I spent two days trying to restart my slant after I turbocharged it because even though I pulled the distributor out, then put it back in, i had spun the fan for some reason and the timing was off when I reassembled it at my mark.

Another time was when the +,- wires on the coil fell off because I did not bolt them down. It was simple to verify by sticking a screwdriver near the end of the plug wire and crank it. Or put your finger in it and check that way. I've done that on accident several times. Obviously I did not notice initially that the wires were not on. But a quick diagnosis

Just like Rusty said, it takes 4 things, and if the timing is right, there's hopefully air going through the carb, you say there's fuel spitting down the bore, and that only leaves spark. I see no reason to rebuild the carb. If anything if the carb needs rebuilt it will run bad, but it will still start and run.
 
Well, if you re-read the posts, his early symptoms described carb flooding (gas coming out from under the carb base after the engine stops is a pretty distinct symptom of carb flooding, plus gas smell on the plugs), and the engine did fire and run OK for 20 seconds. So it makes sense to check the carb. The float being found stuck in the down position is consistent with those symptoms; it would never close the needle valve, allowing the carb to flood.

OP, when you attempt to re-start, you can just put a capful of gas right down the throat of the carb and NO fuel in the bowl, jump right in and crank, and see if it fires right up for a second or 2. This will let you know if the engine will fire at all, and will be a check on the ignition system with limited fuel available. Then let the fuel pump fill up the bowl as you re-crank and pump the gas pedal every few seconds to see if it will start and run as it should.

BTW, OP, in your first pix, the front exhaust manifold nuts looks to be on a very short stud. You ought to fix that sooner rather than later and get a thick brass washer under an inverted acorn nut like on the rearmost exhaust stud, so the front part of the exhaust manifold can move with heating/cooling. There is a very good article on this in the articles page of www.slantsix.org.
 
That is my plan today after I fix the feed line coming from the filter into the needle valve. I've got my gas can in the car waiting to pickup some fuel after I get off duty. I lifted the cover last night right before I tightened everything down and made sure the floats were actually floating and moving freely, so tonight so hopefully tonight when I add the cap full of fuel and try to fire it up she's good to go. I will look into finding one of those for the first nut as well. I thought it was a little weird to be the only one that looked like that as far as spacers and everything when I disassembled. Ill post an update a little later tonight.
 
She is back to life. I put the new line on and poured a cap of fuel in there and she fired right up. Turns out the floats being stuck were the problem all along. Thanks everyone for all your help and advice.
 
Cool; that is not the most common thing to happen, so glad you found it.

Be sure to take the time to read that manifold article.
 
I made a rookie mistake. I wont be making it again. Once again thanks to all and ill read that article as well.
 
Fantabulous. Glad you got it goin.
 
I have to agree with memikes earlier assessment.... I was taught early on (12) if a vehicle quits , check fuel, then spark, then timing.... of course if your flooding, the plugs will foul and not allow the engine to start... but if you lost spark for whatever reason, cranking it over trying to start it will foul the plugs bad enough to not run till they are cleaned and dried. I HIGHLY recommend checking for spark any time a rig quits and wont restart, to be sure. Any part can fail at any time. I had something similar happen 2 years ago on a duster.... ran fine, i messed with all the vacuum lines, fuel lines etc.... car fired right up then dies... it took my stubborn a..... self..... 2 weeks to look into spark, only to find that somehow the positive wire had broken off the coil after it started up..... never rule things out... good luck, and glad to see its running
 
Generally if I have a reason to doubt it then I check it. I've always lived by fuel/spark/compression. But given that I checked it immediately before beginning this and then when I put it back together it fired right up without hesitation made me rule out spark and compression and focus on fuel. Which was the problem.
 
one thing we have to keep in mind with these old cars. they are old! a 70 duster is what 45 years old! unless you buy a car someone replaced pretty much EVERYTHING on, you have a ton of stuff that can work one minute and not the next!

fuel? carb getting dirt/rust in? needs cleaning, kit? or stuck float, dirt in neddle/seat? from where ? the rusty gas tank, pick up , the long line from tank to fuel pump? the old fuel pump? dirty? the line rom pump to carb? and that's just the fuel.

I won't bore you guys with the electrical with 45 year old wires, wire insulation, dirty terminals, bulkhead, the list is long! etc !

unless EVERYTHING has been replaced, look for anything to cause a problem!

but that what makes it fun and interesting, if a person doesn't realize the problems that can arise, and start to learn to diagnose problems when they eventually do arise, then it will be a frsutrating experience!????

if a person can afford a new repop engine wiring harness, that is a great place to begin, that and clean the bulkhead terminals. from there, many upgrades and cleaning and checking all wiring.

main thing is to realize, learning mechanical skills are just that, learned, no one was born knowing it..
 
A very good point.... old cars will make you a well rounded mechanic as you end up touching everything!

And you don't end up guessing like you often do with the computer controlled stuff. I gave my son a used '03 Dakota and he just replace the engine computer the 2nd time. When the computers go really bad, you get no good usable codes and it is back to the basics: spark, good grounds and wiring, fuel..... and all being mucked up by a bad PCM. You can't test a computer bus with a voltmeter.

After working on the '62 Dart with me, he is after an old car that is simple!
 
Here is the finished product now that the air cleaner, breather hose, and pre heater hose are on.
 
Don't forget the clamp on the upper radiator hose!!
 
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