clutch fan

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383Scampman said:
After 5 minutes of running the temp goes up to 220 d.
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5 minutes is way too fast to be getting to 220* from a cold start.
I'd suspect the gage or sender first.
Start the engine and run it with the rad cap off to see what's going on. Nothing should come into the top tank for 5-10 minutes, when the thermostat opens. (yes it may overflow a little) When it does open, you can take a direct measurement of the temperature. Be careful doing this...
 
Hard to say...i start up and leave my house after a minute or 2 and it'a a short run down my concession
3 km to the hwy.When i get to the highway i watch my heat gauge hit 190 and drop to 170 or so knowing the thermostat has opened for the first time.I think it would be 5 minutes or less.
i did limp home once having to stop and shut the engine off at 220 plus every couple of kilometres to let it cool because the thermostat was sticking.It finally it hit 190 and stabilized at home in my driveway.
 
Make sure your coolant concentration isn't to high, you should be around 30% to much coolant and she will run hot. When topping off with water make sure to use distilled water not tap water. Does your bottom radiator hose have a spring in it ? If not it could be collapsing when it gets hot which would prevent coolant circulation. If you are thinking a new radiator look into Cold Case Radiators, they make a awesome 2 row with 1 1/4 tubes and they are made in Hatfield PA not like some other companies that import theirs from china. I saw their radiators at the Syracuse Nationals this past weekend and I ordered one for my 68 Dart.
 
Thanks 68CoronetRt . My lower rad hose is a cobbled up mess that now refuses to seal . I looked at ColdCase radiators online and I didn't see an application for a BB in an A-body . I.E. with the inlet on the left side like the 67-68 BB Cuda/Dart . MY next step is to replace the fan clutch and find a lower rad hose that fits . Later, Tom
 
Is your carb running lean? worth checking regardless
 
If you find a rad you want you could take it to a shop and have them relocate the bung on the other side for you. I did this for mine when I went from SB to BB and had them clean it out like new. If I remember right the total cost was around 75 bucks.

383Scampman said:
Thanks 68CoronetRt . My lower rad hose is a cobbled up mess that now refuses to seal . I looked at ColdCase radiators online and I didn't see an application for a BB in an A-body . I.E. with the inlet on the left side like the 67-68 BB Cuda/Dart . MY next step is to replace the fan clutch and find a lower rad hose that fits . Later, Tom
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Carb is not lean #76 primary & #78 secondary , initial timing is 7deg. , total is 32 seg. @ 2800 rpm . If anything I think it's running fat , looking at the plugs . Idles @1200 rpm , won't go lower . With an automatic you have to set the idle when it is in gear .
 
383Scampman said:
Carb is not lean #76 primary & #78 secondary , initial timing is 7deg. , total is 32 seg. @ 2800 rpm . If anything I think it's running fat , looking at the plugs . Idles @1200 rpm , won't go lower . With an automatic you have to set the idle when it is in gear .
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383Scampman
What size carb are you running on that 383 ? I'm running a Edelbrock Performer 750 on a 68 340 car with a nice cam and Performer rpm intake and stock exhaust and she's perfect. That jetting seems awful small to me. Jetting in mine is .113 mains and .107 secondary. Mine is also a automatic and in drive idles perfect at 750 rpm. A stock edelbrock 500 cfm has .086 primary's and .095 secondary's. Just curious to what you are running.
 
Idles @1200 rpm , won't go lower .
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There's the main reason for your hot running engine. It's struggling and 'working' right from the get-go.
Tap or wiggle on the secondary throttle shaft. Most likely it's being held open just a tad (or by a screw).

With only 7° initial it should also run like a wet newspaper, not helping keeping an engine cool at all.
Use vacuum-advance.

Rust in the cooling system is making it less efficient by a mile.
Consider soaking/treating the entire system with a mild acid-solution to dissolve the rust. Flush well afterwards.
I've used citric acid with good results. Rust turns into white/milky sediment which can be flushed out later.
 
I recall an earlier post where you haven't driven the car much (10 miles or so?)...your plugs might be looking fat but your probably not getting RPMs high enough for long durations making them appear that way..same goes for starting the car up and letting it idle awhile then shutting it down. Although 10 miles doesn't seem like long enough to make the plugs look that way...unless you've been idling a lot.

383Scampman said:
Carb is not lean #76 primary & #78 secondary , initial timing is 7deg. , total is 32 seg. @ 2800 rpm . If anything I think it's running fat , looking at the plugs . Idles @1200 rpm , won't go lower . With an automatic you have to set the idle when it is in gear .
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Thanks guys , my carb is a 3310 with vacuum secondaries on an old Edelbrock DB4B intake with a 1" spacer , vacuum advance installed Petronix distributor . I havn't got to the point of
 
although I haven't used it for my car, I've bought citric acid cleaner for the coffee pot at Bed Bath & Beyond. You could try their website and enter "citric acid cleaner" and it will come up. It was under 10 bucks. Hopefully Big Block Mopar will fill you in on an approximate concentration and where he gets it...though I doubt you could add to much since it's biodegradable. You might try amazon/ebay also.
 
383Scampman said:
Thanks guys , my carb is a 3310 with vacuum secondaries on an old Edelbrock DB4B intake with a 1" spacer , vacuum advance installed Petronix distributor . I havn't got to the point of
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That's a really old holley 750 carb. Normally the primary's are larger than the secondary's. You stated your primary's are .076's and secondary's are .078's that seems very small for a 750 carb. If I were you I would look into another newer carb. At the time I was looking I couldn't afford a brand new Edelbrock so I purchased a 750 Remanufactured one from National Carburetor out of Jacksonville Florida for half the price ( $239.00 ) and couldn't be happier. It runs great and with a life time warranty I couldn't go wrong.
 
inertia said:
Nothing wrong with a well tuned old 3310.
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Some people have very good luck with Holley's others don't. I myself have never had good luck with them. When I had my 68 Coronet RT I replaced an older Holley with a new one and spent an entire summer trying to get my RT to run with it. I even had one of the best Holley guys in Central NY try to get it to run properly to no avail. Bought a 800 Thunder Series Edelbrock put it on adjusted the idle screws and that was it, the car ran like a raped ape. The jetting in the OP's carb still doesn't sound right for a 750 carb.
 
Hi guys . Just an update : installed new Hayden fan clutch , new highflow water pump , high flow 160deg. thermostat and new 16lb radiator cap . the radiator goes back in tomorrow and I will be flushing the system . Thanks fishfly on where to get citric acid . No BB&B up here in the boonies . I'll let everyone know how I'm doin' . Many, many thanks , Tom
 
Hope you did something with your bottom radiator hose. If not that high flow WP will collapse it for sure, you did state it was all cobb up.
 
I'm going to try to get a bottom rad hose today . Auto supply stores around here don't have a clue . All I need is 1 3/4" hose about 11" long but it as a wonky bend in order to seal and the Chinese hose clamps aren't worth a crap .
 
Hi Chuckdoc , in a word, yes . Did it solve the issue , no . Everything works great . the fan clutch and the high flow thermostat and the high flow water pump are super . The flow of coolant is great also . However , I am almost positive there is not enough volume . Motor gets hot (210d.) after idle for about 15 minutes but does not puke . My next step is to thoroughly clean inside of block with citric acid . A $3.98 expense . If unsuccessful I plan to purchase an aluminum radiator for a 67-69 bb Dart/Cuda 3 row to increase the volume a bit . thanks for asking . It is a fresh build and there are bound to be teething issues . Later , Tom
 
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