1. Princess Valiant

    Princess Valiant Duster specialist

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    So I am putting together an early A slant six /833 combo. I have the "2463027" 9.5 inch bellhousing. According to brewers, it calls for a slant six clutch fork with an overall length of 10.5 inches.

    However, I checked my stash and all I have are V8 ones with an overall length of 12.5 inches.

    Can I use the longer one on the 9.5 inch bell or will it create more problems than it's worth??
     
  2. moparmat2000

    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Wow, thats a 2" difference in length. I dont know anything about early A's and that setup, but I do know brewers is on the money with their website. If you have a bunch of longer ones with correct ends, just cut one down and reweld it.

    Heres how I would do it. Take one, scribe a nice straight lay line down the length of it, then cut 2" out of the middle and weld it back together. Theres a way to shorten it where it will be solid and you cannot tell it's ever been shortened. After the 2" is cut out of the center, grind both halves of the rod at the cut to 45° points to make a 90° V notch all around the rod. Then tightly clamp both halves with the lay line lined up with the points touching one another against the inside of the V on some thick aluminum angle, or steel angle with aluminum tape on it, and weld it back up. The angle is only a jig to keep it straight while welding it. Fill the notch with as much as you can, as far around as you can while its clamped in the jig. Once its cool, unclamp it from the angle, grind the excess weld flush, rotate the rod to expose the other side that needs to be welded re clamp it back into the jig, and weld the rest of it you couldent initially reach. You will completely fill the V notch all the way around. Then grind the excess weld off to make it level with the rest of the rod. This will keep it straight, make it solid and look as if it was never cut. I lengthened a 3/4 shift rod for a O/D trans this way but cut and added a piece of steel rod. Had to fill 2 90° V notches. Worked just fine.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2020
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    • BobW

      BobW Curmudgeon At Large FABO Gold Member

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      That may be my issue on my new to me Valiant, some one was putting this car together before I got it. The clutch disengage point was almost all the way to the floor, had about 2" free play at the top. The clutch rod was adjusted all the way to the end. Clutch feels fine, no slipping.
      Is the pivot point on the bell housings different?
      A 2" longer clutch fork would require more travel if the pivot point is closer to the TO bearing.
      I'll have to measure mine!
       
    • 66fs

      66fs FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Get the right fork. It all plays nice together. Your an Engineer, do it right.
       
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      • Dartnut

        Dartnut Don't hate me because i'm beautiful

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        I would be tempted to just shorten one and brace it properly, but I probably would just find the right one.
        Either way would work just fine........
         
      • RustyRatRod

        RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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        It depends on two things. The first is if you have the room for that extra 2" going towards the frame and such. The second is if you do, if the fulcrum point is in the same place. If it is, it would be possible for the clutch fork to move the throw out bearing "too much" when depressing the clutch and put it in a bind. It the fulcrum point is "out" a little further, it could work ok. The best thing to do is get the correct length.
         
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        • CRUZE 418

          CRUZE 418 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Just went through this with my used Lakewood scattershield. Supposed to use the 12 1/2 fork, they have their own specific pivot, don't think that you can cross those up, the fork won't mate with the throw out sleeve. The 12 1/2 fork pushed in hard, that's with a diaphragm clutch. Found the angle off severely for the adjustment rod, between the fork and z-bar, the fork was binding on the pivot from vertical down load. Put the approx. 11" fork and pivot back in and the adjustment rod was back in alignment, easier pedal push. Also, no over center spring.
          So take a good look at the geometry of your stuff and go with what works for you. Take a good look at everything.
           
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