CLUTCH HELP UPDATE

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WAYNE0

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I took it all apart & reinstalled it. Also i took out the bolts that bolt the clutch to the flywheel. I could move the disk easy. I dont know if it was a good idea but i put thin washers between the clutch & flywheel. Now it works like its suppose to. All is good. Now the only issue is that the pedal has to be pushed to the floor. I even adjusted it more to where the bearing is sitting on the fingers. I can still move the bearing with my fingers but not much. Not sure how to fix that problem. Its as if the clutch rod isnt long enough & it doesnt have enough throw. Maybe i can screw a 2x4 to the pedal lol I wanted to test drive it up & down the drive way but i noticed a vibration. I walked out of the garage & found a u joint cap. wow
 
Maybe add a 1/8" spacer under the fork pivot? (OOTB)
your talking the small bracket that the fork pivots on ? That might put more pressure on the fingers but will that help with the pedal having to go to the floor ? I dont know something doesnt seam right. I shouldnt have to push the pedal down that fare. If i dont all but push it to the floor it will not shift or start without moving
 
That might put more pressure on the fingers
Is that not what you're doing by spacing the cover out?

I dont know if it was a good idea but i put thin washers between the clutch & flywheel.
Seems to me that may reduce some plate pressure and ultimately disc life.

your talking the small bracket that the fork pivots on ?
Yes. As I understood, you ran out of adjustment and were unable to get the PP to release the disc.

1665884779006.png
 
Now it's almost beginning to sound like you may have an incorrect clutch fork.
 
Now it's almost beginning to sound like you may have an incorrect clutch fork.
when i measured it to make sure its the right one. now unless im measuring it wrong. If it would b the wrong one you would think that nothing would line up.
 
when i measured it to make sure its the right one. now unless im measuring it wrong. If it would b the wrong one you would think that nothing would line up.
This is just weird, man.
 
Is that not what you're doing by spacing the cover out?


Seems to me that may reduce some plate pressure and ultimately disc life.


Yes. As I understood, you ran out of adjustment and were unable to get the PP to release the disc.

View attachment 1715998540
i made a longer adjustment rod so i have plenty of adjustment left on it The bearing is already against the fingers but not to tight. Yea i get what your saying. I just seamed to me the disk was getting to much pressure. What i can do is take the thin washers out & see if it goes back to the way it was
 
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lol my thoughts also never had this issue before or even heard of it the only thing different than the ones ive done in the past is its a diaphragm clutch its my first one
I can add this for what it's worth. If it's a reman pressure plate, they can be machined too much and cause what you're experiencing. The apply surface moves further and further away from the clutch disc the more it's machined.
 
I can add this for what it's worth. If it's a reman pressure plate, they can be machined too much and cause what you're experiencing. The apply surface moves further and further away from the clutch disc the more it's machined.
mmm i have no idea if it a reman if that would be the case how do i fix it please dont tell me to buy another one lol
 
mmm i have no idea if it a reman if that would be the case how do i fix it please dont tell me to buy another one lol
I'm not sure where you can find the specs for the thickness of the pressure plate.
 
Give Kentucky Clutch a call. They are all things clutch.
 
It’s normal to shim the cover like the OP has done when the disc is thicker than OE.

I’ve done it more times than I can count. Once the disc wears you’ll have to take the shims out. Not a big deal.
 
It’s normal to shim the cover like the OP has done when the disc is thicker than OE.

I’ve done it more times than I can count. Once the disc wears you’ll have to take the shims out. Not a big deal.
I didnt think it was a big deal but i no nothing about the aftermarket clutches. Now all have to do is find away so i dont have to push the pedal to the floor
 
WAYNE0-I had a '71 /6 3 speed Dodge pickup that had similar symptom to yours. The "sheet metal" tabs that keep the transmission front bearing ball bearings evenly spaced broke and all the ball bearings could move freely causing the input shaft to bind especially when the clutch was released.

It's highly unlikely that this is the problem, but I just thought I would mention it.
 
WAYNE0-I had a '71 /6 3 speed Dodge pickup that had similar symptom to yours. The "sheet metal" tabs that keep the transmission front bearing ball bearings evenly spaced broke and all the ball bearings could move freely causing the input shaft to bind especially when the clutch was released.

It's highly unlikely that this is the problem, but I just thought I would mention it.
thanks for the input but i fixed it i think whether right or wrong i put thin washers between the flywheel and clutch where it bolts on
 
That's not right but if it works great. I recommend you take the pressure plate to a clutch shop. They will set the finger height and check for release. That's if it's a 3 finger PP. I don't know what they can do for you of its a diaphragm style.
 
That's not right but if it works great. I recommend you take the pressure plate to a clutch shop. They will set the finger height and check for release. That's if it's a 3 finger PP. I don't know what they can do for you of its a diaphragm style.
Also, a diaphragm pressure plate has a faster release ratio than a Borg & Beck or a Long so it should release with less pedal movement. It typically would be good to use a pedal stop when using a Diaphragm pp in an application originally designed Borg & Beck pp to avoid damage it by pushing it over center (releasing it more than it was designed for).

None of this really applies to WAYNE0's situation since his disc was too thick.
 
Also, a diaphragm pressure plate has a faster release ratio than a Borg & Beck or a Long so it should release with less pedal movement. It typically would be good to use a pedal stop when using a Diaphragm pp in an application originally designed Borg & Beck pp to avoid damage it by pushing it over center (releasing it more than it was designed for).

None of this really applies to WAYNE0's situation since his disc was too thick.


It also depends on who’s lever is used on the Long cover. That’s one of the benefits of the Long cover. You can buy about anything you want/need to get the clutch engagement you want.
 
That's not right but if it works great. I recommend you take the pressure plate to a clutch shop. They will set the finger height and check for release. That's if it's a 3 finger PP. I don't know what they can do for you of its a diaphragm style.
its a diaphragm style
 
I don't know what Combo you have but by now, somebody mighta mentioned that there are two different pedal ratios rig
I don't know what Combo you have but by now, somebody mighta me

I don't know what Combo you have but by now, somebody mighta mentioned that there are two different pedal ratios right? One for the slantys and another for everything else.
ill have to ask the guy i bought the assembly from by some chance that its from a slant 6 car hope its an easy fix if he doesnt remember is there a way to tell which one it is ?
 
is there a way to tell which one it is ?
yes;
but I only know about the 67 and up, A-body cars so if you have something older, or NOT stock, Brewers is the place to go.
The ratio thing has been discussed here on FABO several times, and pictures were included; so try a search.
The difference is at the very top of the pedal, and IDK if you can see it, once it is installed. But in your case it sorta seems obvious, that you have a ratio problem.
The slanty cars came with a smaller clutch, and a less stiff assembly, and so did not required a lot of leverage; but the bigger/stiffer V8 clutches did.
The slanty pedal can be modified by cutting and welding
 
OldManMopar posted photos on here long ago of the different pedal types.

When that guy talks, you might want to listen

This is not exactly what I was looking for, but see post 12


clutch-pedals-a-body-jpg.jpg


Here this one. You have to click the icons where the photos "would be" to open them

 
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