[SOLD] Coilover conversion for your stock K Member

-
Status
Not open for further replies.

Badart

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2009
Messages
5,170
Reaction score
85
Location
Northern Utah
Rating - 100%
24   0   0
Contact seller
Well they are officially here!!!!!!! After some minor changes I am finally happy with this setup. With this particular coilover choice you can actually achieve 1 1/2" of drop compared to the factory ride height and still have 1" of up travel and 3" of droop at the shock. I am currently selling the lower control arms with coilover mounts welded in the position that you see. As well as the adapters that you see that will allow you to go from a rod end to a bayonet style to the factory location. I am also making all of the inner fender bracing that you see. I recommend that you run either the J bars/strut bars or the coilover hoops or a combination of both. Pricing is located in my gallery. Contact me for lead time, but it has been a couple of days normally.

Edit: These will fit the early cars also. I am currently converting my 65 Barracuda with this setup.

Lower Control Arm Features
*Built in sway bar mount for 73+ sway bar, but earlier sway bar tabs can be welded on.
*Ability to adjust positive caster by moving included spacers.
*Greaseable urethane bushings with zerk fittings.
*Improved clearance to lower the front suspension.
 

Attachments

  • Done.jpg
    81.7 KB · Views: 4,798
  • Done2.jpg
    95 KB · Views: 3,721
  • Done3.jpg
    68.8 KB · Views: 3,506
  • Done4.jpg
    98.1 KB · Views: 3,455
  • Done5.jpg
    80.7 KB · Views: 3,439
  • Done6.jpg
    86.9 KB · Views: 3,996
  • Adapters.jpg
    123.3 KB · Views: 3,341
  • LCA set.jpg
    111.4 KB · Views: 3,270
Only question i have is can you go lower? I need a 3" drop.

You could leave out the plate to reinforce the shock tower and I could weld in a bent cross bar across the top of the coilover hoop and run a coilover mount to there to get the drop that you want. There is enough clearance between the Lower control arm and the frame rail to achieve this too.
 
This picture is with 1" of up travel still left in the shock. I have measured 3 a bodies at this point and they are all right around 18" to the ball joint mount on the lca. As you can see this is 16.5".
 

Attachments

  • Done6.jpg
    110.3 KB · Views: 3,314
What spindles are you using on this set up? Have you done any real world R & D testing with this set up? And what kind of money are you talking for the set up as pictured?
 
Badart---Again NICE work and I have been following this from the start,Is there not a way to support the top of the shock with NO welding to the inner wheel house???? I just can't see how you can weld that much and NOT hurt the paint on the engine side of the front inner fender,I could be missing something here(most likely) So these could only be installed in during a restoration????? I'd hate to put that much heat and ruin the paint in the engine compartment--Thanks Steve
 
What spindles are you using on this set up? Have you done any real world R & D testing with this set up? And what kind of money are you talking for the set up as pictured?

They use factory spindles and steering linkage. Working on the R&D testing right now. The are welded in a jig with the factory control arm dimensions. These arms are super strong. There is a 5" slug welded inside of the tube so it very strong and I have no doubt these will hold up for a very, very long time. They also use urethane bushings that can be ordered from summit and Jegs. Pricing is in my gallery.

Here is the machined slug that gets welded in them.
 

Attachments

  • Slugs.jpg
    110.1 KB · Views: 3,145
Badart---Again NICE work and I have been following this from the start,Is there not a way to support the top of the shock with NO welding to the inner wheel house???? I just can't see how you can weld that much and NOT hurt the paint on the engine side of the front inner fender,I could be missing something here(most likely) So these could only be installed in during a restoration????? I'd hate to put that much heat and ruin the paint in the engine compartment--Thanks Steve

I was just talking about this to someone a couple of days ago. It may be possible without hurting the engine bay paint as long as you take time, go slow and keep a wet towel covering that area, because you are never actually welding the other side of the sheet metal, just the bracing. I would attempt it on my car.
 
Looks like a good product. Glad to see someone stepping up in the Mopar world and designing parts like this.

In the pictures it appears you have an adjustable strut rod for the mock up set. Is this something that's included, available seperately, or that you sourced elsewhere? Also, I'm assuming that since the coilover is much bigger this setup will require a tubular A-arm of some sort much like the other kits out there? Thanks in advance for the info, and keep plugging away man. This stuff looks killer.
 
Looks like a good product. Glad to see someone stepping up in the Mopar world and designing parts like this.

In the pictures it appears you have an adjustable strut rod for the mock up set. Is this something that's included, available seperately, or that you sourced elsewhere? Also, I'm assuming that since the coilover is much bigger this setup will require a tubular A-arm of some sort much like the other kits out there? Thanks in advance for the info, and keep plugging away man. This stuff looks killer.

Thanks. The adjustable strut rod in the pic is something that I am working on. This one is kind of the prototype. They are not for sale yet, because I want to test them first. To answer your second question, yes you will have to use a tubular upper control arm that clears the coilover. The one in the pic is RMS and the fit is perfect.
 
Here is a kit that I have come up with for $475 + shipping. It includes the Lower Control Arms, short coilover adapters to get the extra drop and coilover hoops.
 

Attachments

  • Package deal.jpg
    112.5 KB · Views: 1,497
Outstanding work. Finally a solid after market lower control arm. Defiantly considering a purchase but want to know if the coil over’s and strut arm are included, extra, or even available? I already have my shock towers stiffened so all I would need would be the lowers, shocks, shock adapter and strut arm.

Are you going to atempt a rack and pinon conversion for the stock K-member?
 
Outstanding work. Finally a solid after market lower control arm. Defiantly considering a purchase but want to know if the coil over’s and strut arm are included, extra, or even available? I already have my shock towers stiffened so all I would need would be the lowers, shocks, shock adapter and strut arm.

Are you going to atempt a rack and pinon conversion for the stock K-member?

The coilovers and springs you can get through summit. QA1 DS-401 or Strange S-5204. I am not making the adjustable strut rods yet, but there are others out there or you could just use the factory rods too and cut down the bushing. We can do a deal on the adapters and arms. I will pm you a price.
 
Do I need your tubular LCA's or will tubular UCA's/coilovers/fender brace work? i guess the real question is can i mount coilovers to a stock LCA? thanks
 
"Do I need your tubular LCA's or will tubular UCA's/coilovers/fender brace work? i guess the real question is can i mount coilovers to a stock LCA?"

anyone know this answer?
 
"Do I need your tubular LCA's or will tubular UCA's/coilovers/fender brace work? i guess the real question is can i mount coilovers to a stock LCA?"

anyone know this answer?

Yes you can. I've seen people drill and tap the pivot shaft for a bolt and large washer to retain the LCA from wanting to move back. Not sure how safe this is though.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
-
Back
Top