Cold fluid level?

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doogievlg

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My car was struggling to climb up onto the trailer over the weekend. Tonight I went over to check the fluid and of course didn’t have the keys. I checked it cold just for fun and it was at the add quart line. I don’t even know if there is a solid answer to this but what should the level be when it’s cold? Transmission is a 727.
 
I seem to recall reading that cold at the add mark was full when hot.
 
My car was struggling to climb up onto the trailer over the weekend. Tonight I went over to check the fluid and of course didn’t have the keys. I checked it cold just for fun and it was at the add quart line. I don’t even know if there is a solid answer to this but what should the level be when it’s cold? Transmission is a 727.
The level should be at least at the "add" mark when the engine is running, in neutral, and cold. Generally, the fluid level will be quite a bit higher than the full mark when the engine is not running and cold. This is due to the converter draining back.
 
The level should be at least at the "add" mark when the engine is running, in neutral, and cold. Generally, the fluid level will be quite a bit higher than the full mark when the engine is not running and cold. This is due to the converter draining back.

I have read two different opinions on this. The first is what you stated essentially. Once the transmission is engaged and working it will pump fluid out of the pan and give me an accurate reading. The other states that fluid will expand when it warms up which can cause the level to increase when running.
 
I have read two different opinions on this. The first is what you stated essentially. Once the transmission is engaged and working it will pump fluid out of the pan and give me an accurate reading. The other states that fluid will expand when it warms up which can cause the level to increase when running.
That is why it needs to be between the add & full marks in neutral when the trans fluid is hot after driving a mile or two.
 
That is why it needs to be between the add & full marks in neutral when the trans fluid is hot after driving a mile or two.

At this point I’m nervous about damaging it. When I was pulling it onto the trailer I was at almost 3000 rpm to get up.
 
At this point I’m nervous about damaging it. When I was pulling it onto the trailer I was at almost 3000 rpm to get up.
Is the bottom of the pan wet from leaks? Transmissions get very unhappy when they run low on fluid. Revving it that high to get it to move is not good for it, for sure.
 
Is the bottom of the pan wet from leaks? Transmission get very unhappy when they run low on fluid. Revving it that high to get it to move is not good for it, for sure.

Not wet but the car has sat a long time and now I’m second guessing if I put enough fluid in it. Obviously I know it’s not empty. I also confirmed this when I pulled them temp sensor and fluid came out.
 
Not wet but the car has sat a long time and now I’m second guessing if I put enough fluid in it. Obviously I know it’s not empty. I also confirmed this when I pulled them temp sensor and fluid came out.
Not sure what you mean by temp sensor. The easiest thing is to simply add enough fluid to bring the level to the add mark when cold while the engine is running, in neutral, on a level surface. If it has issues moving at that point, then the trans likely needs to be torn down and rebuilt.
 
Not sure what you mean by temp sensor. The easiest thing is to simply add enough fluid to bring the level to the add mark when cold while the engine is running, in neutral, on a level surface. If it has issues moving at that point, then the trans likely needs to be torn down and rebuilt.

Thanks. I’m going to create another thread trying to figure out if it could be any other issue.
 
Not wet but the car has sat a long time and now I’m second guessing if I put enough fluid in it. Obviously I know it’s not empty. I also confirmed this when I pulled them temp sensor and fluid came out.
Almost every cold non-running one I've checked is at least well into the safe zone or above it.....
 
I would add that over 36+yrs in the field the number checked is....well a LOT! Lol!
 
I would add that over 36+yrs in the field the number checked is....well a LOT! Lol!

That makes me feel a little better! I pushed the car in front of the ramps and the only driving was onto the trailer then off. Could I have done serious damage being low on fluid?
 
That makes me feel a little better! I pushed the car in front of the ramps and the only driving was onto the trailer then off. Could I have done serious damage being low on fluid?
Well, what does it normally rev to pulling onto the trailer? That usually brings most close to the stall speed of the converter, some ramps/approaches are better/worse, so....chances are if You didn't smell anything "hot" or burnt, and the fluid smells normal, You're good.
No confusion about above, when the engine is NOT running, the fluid should check in the "safe" zone or higher COLD. When the engine IS running & trans is in N, the level will be a bit below the "add" mark COLD. When HOT, the levels will be way over "full" not running, & "safe" to "full" idling in N.
 
Well, what does it normally rev to pulling onto the trailer? That usually brings most close to the stall speed of the converter, some ramps/approaches are better/worse, so....chances are if You didn't smell anything "hot" or burnt, and the fluid smells normal, You're good.
No confusion about above, when the engine is NOT running, the fluid should check in the "safe" zone or higher COLD. When the engine IS running & trans is in N, the level will be a bit below the "add" mark COLD. When HOT, the levels will be way over "full" not running, & "safe" to "full" idling in N.

I do not plan on driving the car an inch until I confirm the level is where it needs to be. So I will start the car. Cycle through the gears then shift it into N and let it idle.then check it and make sure it is just below the add line.
 
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