Comparing Spring Relocate Kits

Suspension, Steering and Chassis

  1. SpeedThrills

    SpeedThrills FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    There are obvious differences seen in the pictures (see links). But why the large price difference?

    The Mancini MP example shown doesn't have any holes. I've seen pictures of MP hangers with 4 holes. Looks like 2 are for a different front segment length than the other 2.

    The USCarTools kit has 3 holes vertically.

    So the Cartools kit would be more adjustable.

    I'm using the Caltracs that they sell for relocated springs (they ask for the relocate kit used to provide the correct hanger). It'll be about 3000#, 400 hp, foot braked auto, 6 cyl leafs.

    manciniabody.html
    Mopar A-Body 67-75 Spring Hanger Re-Location Kit
     
  2. Kendog 170

    Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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    The car tool one looks more dummy proof in locating before welding. When I did mine I use a guide bar off old bracket to drill my hole then added one more 1" above for lowering more if needed with my SS springs

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    • Kendog 170

      Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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      You can trim them a little too.

      15.jpg
       
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      • roccodart440

        roccodart440 Well-Known Member

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        GO with the one that has the most adjustability.
        I used the RMS boxes which have 4 holes.

        I run mine in the upper rear hole.
         
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        • black954

          black954 Well-Known Member

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          I don't think i'd recommend using the old front mounts to align the new perches. I just installed my USCarTool kit this past weekend and I found the factory locations on the spring mounts were not square and almost a 1/4" off on my car. Which, my car has never been in an accident and has perfect rust free floors so I believe it was as it came from the factory. My spring perches were also 1/8" to the right side of the housing as well.
           
        • rumblefish360

          rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away FABO Gold Member

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          LMAO! Yup! That’s normal for factory build tolerance’s. For surely better than others. As well as something you would measure before the final bolt tightening. It doesn’t matter what it you use, everything has to be checked, double checked and double checked again.
          It is what it is and that’s the way it is.
          Once your done though..... Woo-Hoo!


           
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          • Keith Mopar

            Keith Mopar Mopar Nut

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            That kit from US car looks like a really solid kit but I have never used it myself. I have put in the Mopar perf kit and the one offered by RMS and the RMS kit is a better gauge steel than the Mopar kit is.
             
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            • Kendog 170

              Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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              Agreed. My Ragtop is off 1/4" from factory. Hardtop the same but I welded my perches to get it right.Made a jig for my housing to try and prevent warping. I did everything myself so I was nervous setting pinion angle ect: but it worked out great. Good ride height with SS springs (using hole 1" up from stock) and launches nice and straight.

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              • dodgedifferent2

                dodgedifferent2 Well-Known Member

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                Make your own for half the price of all the above.
                 
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                • RustyRatRod

                  RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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                  Yup, sounds about right. lol
                   
                • SpeedThrills

                  SpeedThrills FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Good info, everybody. Making me think. (Ouch!)

                  Nice work, Kendog. I like the welds through the holes.

                  Two reasons I was going to move them in:
                  1) Future hp requirements would require wider tire. (400ish now)
                  2) I have a narrowed 9" to put in it. It's only narrowed a couple inches, (I got it from a D150 Pro Streeter). As such, with the springs in the stock location, the spring perches would be near the ends of the axle tubes, and they will have to be modified because the diameter of the axle tubes will be different on one side of the perch than the other (just the way the 9" is). I figured I might as well just move them in for the future and avoid the diameter difference issue. But seeing all of these variables, I'm going to put it on the stock 6 cylinder springs and put some heavy clamps on the front segment. (Maybe a pinion snubber?) I'll go from there as needed. Making the spring perches work isn't that big a deal.

                  DD2: I think you're right. I can buy the hangers and perches, and make the front hanger boxes. -If and when I go that way.

                  Also, I didn't intend to build this into an early 80's street/strip car. It's just kinda going that way. lol I had a 70 Challenger R/T, 69 Dart 440 727 (original 340 gts 4 spd!) and a 72 Demon 340 727, back in the 80's. I guess I'm re-living my youth, and don't realize it! So maybe the Caltracs don't fit the picture. The inboard springs would, but I don't think I really need them yet.

                  BTW, the car is a '74 Dart Sport cloned into a 70-71 Duster. Glass hood, fenders and bumpers. I don't like the smog motored "later" cars, so I bought this because it is almost rust free. It will be street legal, but mostly strip.

                  Done ramblin'!
                   
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                  • roccodart440

                    roccodart440 Well-Known Member

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                    I did this on mine. I replaced the 8.75 with a dana and had it narrowed as much as you physically can narrow it for an a body with a relocation kit.

                    This will allow up to a 3.5" back spacing regardless of the width of the wheel.

                    If you narrow too far the leaf spring will hit the calipers (if you run disc brakes) My leafs clear the calipers by about a 1/4".

                    16378_10204960777488574_6317630999826702274_n.jpg
                     
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                    • Kendog 170

                      Kendog 170 Let the boy go !

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                      Good info. I thinks I took 3" off each side on stock A body 8 3/4 housing. I'm thinking of doing the Jeep Liberty disc brake conversion this spring. Hopefully there won't be interference.:eek:
                       
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                      • SpeedThrills

                        SpeedThrills FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        I just ordered new polyurethane bushings for the 6 cyl springs, u-bolts and spring perches.
                        I also have 3/8 X 2 HRS to make spring clamps.
                        Also just ordered grade 8 hardware for the clamps and the front spring eyes. My original spring eye bolts were 9/16, the new bushings have 5/8 holes. I'll just open up the mounting bracket holes.

                        Next, I have to cut off ladder bar and coil over shock brackets from the 9". What's a good way of going about this?

                        I have spring perches and U bolts on the way. I'll set the pinion angle and tack the perches. Then slide the rear out to fully weld. From what I've read, I have to keep from twisting the axle tubes. I'm guessing wet rags and run short beads, to keep it from over heating?
                         
                      • black954

                        black954 Well-Known Member

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                        To remove the brackets, the best way is to cut them off close to the axle tube with a plasma cutter and then finish grinding the rest off with a 4 1/2" grinder with a flapper disc. Or you could use a grinder with a cut off wheel to get close. Some use an oxy/acetylene torch to cut them off but you have to be quick and not get too close to the tubes or you'll overheat the tubes or even gouge into the tubes if you aren't carefull.
                        I wouldn't worry about warping anything when welding the new perches on. Align the new perches to the pinion angle you're looking for, triple check the perch location in relation to the centerline of the axle housing, and then put 4 heavy tack's in each corner of the perches before you weld.
                         
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                        • SpeedThrills

                          SpeedThrills FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          Oh, also, how do I check that everything is square?
                           
                        • black954

                          black954 Well-Known Member

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                          if you buy the correct perches, they will fit tight to the axle tubes so they will only go on square to the tubes. Since your housing is not symmetrical, what I did was measure the overall length of the housing and marked center. Then you find the spring center to center measurement and divide that by 2. Measure off the center line on the housing out in either direction and you have the center line of the spring perches. Set your pinion angle and tack the perches in place. Hopefully you measured your pinion angle when the car was on the ground and with the weight of the car on the suspension so you can use that on the new set up. I believe stock is 5-6 degrees if I remember correctly.
                           
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                          • Johnny Mac

                            Johnny Mac www.blueprintengines.com FABO Vendor

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                            Last edited: Feb 19, 2020
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                            • SpeedThrills

                              SpeedThrills FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              I should be more clear. I'm thinking about square in the car, per your post #5.
                               
                            • black954

                              black954 Well-Known Member

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                              There’s a PDF instructions on the PST link that will walk you through it. I did it a little different since my car was completely stripped down and up on a lift.
                               
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                              • SpeedThrills

                                SpeedThrills FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                I don't see a PDF. No biggie. I'm thinking of using the spindles and a plumb bob and working from there.
                                Thanks, I'm going to search and see what I find.
                                 
                              • black954

                                black954 Well-Known Member

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                                If you follow the link Jonny Mac posted to PST, click on the “documents” section below and the pdf instructions is there. You’re on the right track with the plumb bob. That’s what PST recommends and measures off of the rear torsion bar mounts.
                                 
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                                • Garethw

                                  Garethw Well-Known Member

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                                  Click on “Documents” and you’ll find it in there.
                                   
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                                  • SpeedThrills

                                    SpeedThrills FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                    Ah, thanks, guys. I didn't follow the link, I went to PST's home page.

                                    BTW, thanks for the info Johnny. I decided not to move them in, or use the Caltracs, at least for now. I'm using new bushings and spring clamps. I'm curious as to how it works "old school".

                                    Now I actually have to do some work!
                                     
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